Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Spawn Sack]

Curious if any fly fisher people can see any issues with an idea I have cooking up. An old shoulder injury has more or less put an end to my single hand casting days with the fly rod. Gave up my 8wt river rod years ago. Too much line weight and rod/reel weight. Shoulder would flare up after a couple hours. Converted to two handed rods for river fly fishing, no issues with shoulder. Trout weight fly rods I can still single hand cast, but occasionally I get a shoulder flare up. My chiro recommends giving it up. In recent years I have been doing mostly trolling on lakes, either gear or trolling flies on a sinking line. Still lots of fun but I miss casting with an indicator. I have an idea I plan to follow through with, just looking for feedback.

Plan is to have a 10 foot 5wt fly rod built up as a centerpin rod. Going to pair it with a 3.75 inch pin reel. Probably going to spool it up with a floating mono like Bloodrun or similar in 10 lb or so. From here dacron bobber stop that can be reeled through the guides and casted out without catching on the guides. Small slip float I'm guessing 7-10g or so. Just enough tiny split shot above the swivel to get a good cast out. Small barrel swivel then leader/tippet, then fly.

I envision casting/fishing it like one would float fishing on a river. If I want to fish 20 feet deep just adjust the bobber stop to that depth and cast it out there. Fly will drop to desired depth. Obviously cant really strip the fly in like with a normal fly line, but I don't see any issues with giving the reel a small turn every so often and slowly bring the indicator back to the boat.

Issues I have though of are:

1- mono mainline sinking into the lake and getting a crap hookset as I'd mostly be pulling the sunken line out of the water. I think this could be remedied by using a floating mono mainline like Bloodrun 10lb.
2- too much splash and scaring the fish away. I think with the smallest float I can get away with and the lightest amount of lead I can get away with this issue should be mitigated.
3- split shot on mainline spooking fish. I'm hoping that I'll only need 2-3 small split shot. In clear/shallow water this might be an issue, but in deeper and/or murkier water I can't see the fish noticing much or at all.

Obviously this idea is not as ideal as a standard fly set up, but I think it'll work. I've never hard of anyone doing this. Also I think it would be a hoot hooking a big trout and palming the spool with no drag.

Curious if anyone has any feedback, ways to improve this idea, etc. Rod is currently being built up by a buddy, and the reel should be done by late summer if I'm lucky. I should also say that I have tried a 2 handed rod for lake fly fishing. Found it too hard get a decent d-loop and load in the rod steering the rod and line around the outboard. Just didn't work for me. Might work better up at the bow but 99% of the time I'm the driver and am at the stern seat.

[coastangler]

Your plan sounds good to me and even though I haven't done it myself, I recall seeing replies from others in this forum (I think in this thread https://www.fishingwithrod.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=43478) about having success using spinning gear with slip floats and weights to fish chironomids on lakes so if that produces I'm sure what you have in mind will.

Something I'd like to share, is that on Phil Rowley's latest stillwater fishing book (the one recently published with Orvis) he mentions that he always uses and recommends roll casts when fly fishing indicators as apparently distance can actually be counter-productive when fishing deep and is also less tangle-prone especially with long leaders. In the end this is just an opinion but something you may also want to consider.

I know it's easier said than done, but I've always wondered about exploring casting with my left hand, and even trying to get proficient at it should I ever have issues on my right side, I'm curious if you've also tried pursuing that? Best of luck

[bunnta]

I'm actually trying this out this year. But not in the same approach you are taking. I treat it as a hybrid or cross between the two styles. Gear  CP float fishing with a fly rod and chironomid ... i will still have a leader and rig a slip float as if it was a spinning gear set up. I like the idea being able to control the rod with one hand while free spooling. With a single hand fly reel, it wasnt the same, quite hard to do as the knob position isn't ideal for controlling the spool with knuckles and fingers. One thing to consider is... the backlash from the reel when the clicker is on and your not quick to grab the rod. You must know, casting a noodle rod on a cp will take some practice, best to learn the wallace cast to help. Bc cast can get weird on very light set up. I rigged this set up for my son last year on spinning outfit, he sure was slaying, that's why i am going to try this out. Have a bamboo rod and 4 incher cp ready to test.

[DanL]

Plan is to have a 10 foot 5wt fly rod built up as a centerpin rod. Going to pair it with a 3.75 inch pin reel. Probably going to spool it up with a floating mono like Bloodrun or similar in 10 lb or so. From here dacron bobber stop that can be reeled through the guides and casted out without catching on the guides. Small slip float I'm guessing 7-10g or so. Just enough tiny split shot above the swivel to get a good cast out. Small barrel swivel then leader/tippet, then fly.

No fundamental reason why it wouldnt work. In some ways it could be more efficient than the traditional setup. A traditional setup could take several minutes to sink, the shot will get down immediately and time in the zone is obviously very important.

One shouldnt need to cast far, so might even be able to get away with even less weight.

1- mono mainline sinking into the lake and getting a crap hookset as I'd mostly be pulling the sunken line out of the water.

That's a fair concern, but I think it would work. Normally it doesnt take much hookset to make it stick, but slack is a killer. Sunken line has the benefit of water resistance to assist the initial set, then you'll have to take up all the slack ASAP. Dunno how well a floating mono line would work. mono isnt less dense than water, so maybe it's some coating that keeps it in the surface tension. If it breaks through due to oil, or whatever, it will probably sink too?

2- too much splash and scaring the fish away. I think with the smallest float I can get away with and the lightest amount of lead I can get away with this issue should be mitigated.
3- split shot on mainline spooking fish. I'm hoping that I'll  need 2-3 small split shot. In clear/shallow water this might be an issue, but in deeper and/or murkier water I can't see the fish noticing much or at all.

Unless you are sight fishing and casting to specific fish, it's not an issue IMHO. After the commotion settles, the fish will be fine. Obviously dont cast right on top a fish in shallow water. Put the shot a few feet away from the fly and there will be no problem.

Obviously this idea is not as ideal as a standard fly set up, but I think it'll work. I've never hard of anyone doing this.

Fundamentally it's no different that fishing with a spinning rod and splitshot. People do it successfully all the time and it's great way to get kids or newbies into it.

[psd1179]

If you can cast a few BB split shot far with your centerpin, good for you

[RalphH]

don't over think this. While it's not heard about much these days, it's more than possible to adapt the use of nymphs, streamers and even dry flies/emergers to any sort of light spinning tackle. You can do that with single action/centre pin reels as well. Fifty plus years ago it was common to see those reels used for strip casting just about any sort of terminal gear.

[stsfisher]

Is it not simpler to run a full sinking line and on a traditional fly rod set up and fish your flies naked beside the boat? lots of fish get caught this way everyday already and there is no need to cast at all. Simply strip out the depth you intend to fish and drop the fly over the side of the boat.

[Spawn Sack]

Your plan sounds good to me and even though I haven't done it myself, I recall seeing replies from others in this forum (I think in this thread https://www.fishingwithrod.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=43478) about having success using spinning gear with slip floats and weights to fish chironomids on lakes so if that produces I'm sure what you have in mind will.

Something I'd like to share, is that on Phil Rowley's latest stillwater fishing book (the one recently published with Orvis) he mentions that he always uses and recommends roll casts when fly fishing indicators as apparently distance can actually be counter-productive when fishing deep and is also less tangle-prone especially with long leaders. In the end this is just an opinion but something you may also want to consider.

I know it's easier said than done, but I've always wondered about exploring casting with my left hand, and even trying to get proficient at it should I ever have issues on my right side, I'm curious if you've also tried pursuing that? Best of luck

Ya ive tried to cast with my left and reel with right. Suppose I could teach my brain to like it if I had no alternative. Seems like too much time/effort at this point. And I have tried to just roll cast but the way my boat is set up and where I stand it's just a big pain to get that d-loop around the outboard.

I'm actually trying this out this year. But not in the same approach you are taking. I treat it as a hybrid or cross between the two styles. Gear  CP float fishing with a fly rod and chironomid ... i will still have a leader and rig a slip float as if it was a spinning gear set up. I like the idea being able to control the rod with one hand while free spooling. With a single hand fly reel, it wasnt the same, quite hard to do as the knob position isn't ideal for controlling the spool with knuckles and fingers. One thing to consider is... the backlash from the reel when the clicker is on and your not quick to grab the rod. You must know, casting a noodle rod on a cp will take some practice, best to learn the wallace cast to help. Bc cast can get weird on very light set up. I rigged this set up for my son last year on spinning outfit, he sure was slaying, that's why i am going to try this out. Have a bamboo rod and 4 incher cp ready to test.

Ya i'm not worried about backlash with the clicker on. Reel builder is one of the best in the biz and is designing the clicker to operate as a temporary drag, if needed. Also not worreid at all about casting it. I've been fishing a pin for a while and have/had many noodley pin rods. No problem. Reel will be a 3.75 bearing and should start up if you so much as fart on it.

Is it not simpler to run a full sinking line and on a traditional fly rod set up and fish your flies naked beside the boat? lots of fish get caught this way everyday already and there is no need to cast at all. Simply strip out the depth you intend to fish and drop the fly over the side of the boat.

I already do this. It works fine and is more simple, you are right. However, I find this method of fishing a bit boring to be honest, I like to cast even if not that far. Plus under certain circumstances I want to be able to cast it out and slowly bring my indicator back to the boat (balanced leech or whatever).

[bunnta]

Hmmm....Your not having Dan G make you one are you? I think he has a 3 and 3/4 bearing reel in the work for trout....

[stsfisher]

I already do this. It works fine and is more simple, you are right. However, I find this method of fishing a bit boring to be honest, I like to cast even if not that far. Plus under certain circumstances I want to be able to cast it out and slowly bring my indicator back to the boat (balanced leech or whatever).

Fair enough,  bobber fishing with a cp reel, why not. What style of cast will you be using from the boat?

[Spawn Sack]

Fair enough,  bobber fishing with a cp reel, why not. What style of cast will you be using from the boat?

Honestly, I never bothered to learn the names of the different CP casts. I vary my casts off left or right shoulder, single or two handed, depending on obstacles in my way, how much distance I'm looking for, the wind, etc. Only cast I've never bothered with is the one where you tug/bat the line just ahead of the CP reel to load the rod.
I'm guessing lead in the 7-10g range and an small float to match will be about right. I'll practice in a field near my house 1st to determine how much weight is needed to load the rod and get a decent cast out.

[Spawn Sack]

Thoughts on mono mainline? I can't decide between:
-A floating mono mainline like Bloodrun 10lb. I figure it would help get a good hook set if the line between the rod tip and float is not sinking/sunk.
-A flouro mainline like Seaguar Invisx in 10lb. Probably not necessary as I run a flouro tippet and I doubt the fish are going to care/notice what is going on above the swivel. If anything would spook them in this case it would moat likely be the small split shot above the swivel.
-Just keep it simple and run good old Maxima UG in 8lb or so. If I find it's sinking too much between the rod tip and float, or not stealthy enough, can always switch to a diff mainline later.

[CohoJake]

Thoughts on mono mainline? I can't decide between:
-A floating mono mainline like Bloodrun 10lb. I figure it would help get a good hook set if the line between the rod tip and float is not sinking/sunk.
-A flouro mainline like Seaguar Invisx in 10lb. Probably not necessary as I run a flouro tippet and I doubt the fish are going to care/notice what is going on above the swivel. If anything would spook them in this case it would moat likely be the small split shot above the swivel.
-Just keep it simple and run good old Maxima UG in 8lb or so. If I find it's sinking too much between the rod tip and float, or not stealthy enough, can always switch to a diff mainline later.

Why so light?  Thicker diameter will be easier to manage, and you don't want to be breaking off your lead/float. The floating mono sounds like a good idea - fluorocarbon makes terrible mainline IMO, not only does it sink, but I've had it burn grooves into my rod guides.

[Spawn Sack]

Why so light?  Thicker diameter will be easier to manage, and you don't want to be breaking off your lead/float. The floating mono sounds like a good idea - fluorocarbon makes terrible mainline IMO, not only does it sink, but I've had it burn grooves into my rod guides.

Yaaaa.....I figure 8lb maxima is at least equivalent in breaking strength to 10 flouro. I usually fish 4-6 lb flouro depending on the size of the trout in the lake. So mainline to leader breaking strength is about right IMO. Also I find the lighter mainline casts better on a pin, personal preference I guess.
Good point on the flouro mainline, decided not to go that route.
I'm gonna start with 8lb UG and if don't like it peel it off and try something else, like 10lb floating Bloodrun.