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[fishingwithegg2]

So back on New Year's day I hooked my first trout of the year, only to have it pop off at the dock. Quick release yet again with those barbless hooks!

Now that I think back into my trips in the last 2 years, I seem to lose those feisty, head shaking fish more often when they're within 2m of my boat or the shore, especially with species that jump a lot... like a coho or pennask rainbow. Most times they spit the hook right when I'm reaching for the net, and it happens to me both when spincasting or fly fishing.

A couple scenarios come to mind when using barbless hooks:
- Too much slack on the line and the hook simply slips out of the mouth
- Apply too much pressure and the hook pops off when the fish shakes it's head. Seems to happen often when I have my rod way above my head trying to get the net 

What techniques do you guys employ when fighting these fish close up?

[Jk47]

That's what you should never allow the slightest chance for slack in the line or any other possible mistake and always reel as fast as you can while running away from the water and drag all your fish as far on to shore as you can. Why do you think it's called "landing" ?

[chironomidking]

I am not sure what I am doing right because I use barbless exclusively for all types of fishing and do not loose many fish.  I can't remember the last time I lost a fish as a result of the hook being barbless.  Most of my losses come from poor hook sets, seals, gear failure or the fish getting hung up in anchor rope, weeds or wood.  90% of the time, the hook pops out when the fish is in the net which is exactly how I like if for catch & release.  Based on this, I am assuming that you are letting the line go slack at the wrong times causing the hook to dislodge.

[mk1freak]

i usually keep a tight line but i've had this happen, usually on the fly and mostly with coho as they tend to get away from you then surprise you with a head on run and a jump out of the water and poof they slip the hook, doesn't happen often but when it does its a bummer 

[psd1179]

Barbless hook on one hand avoid damaging the fish by remove barb hook violently. One the other hand force anglers choosing bigger hooks. The bad consequence of using bigger hooks usually is ignored. A 2/0 hook can kill a smaller fish easily.

[RalphH]

don't agree that you have to use a larger hook.

Best Advice I have is make sure your hook is sharp, as sharp as you can buy or sharpen it carefully with an appropriate tool like an eze lap sportsman's diamond hone or a good metal file. Hooks must be sharp enough to scratch or dig into your finger nail with light pressure. My thumbnails are covered in scratches from using this test.

[fishingwithegg2]

I usually check the sharpness of my hooks regularly with the "thumbnail test", and do carry my hook sharpener with me.

Can't even count the number of times where a fish grabs the spoon really close to me, I set with the rod tip high, the the fish flips and spins like mad, and poof the hook gets ripped out of it's mouth. I actually have this happening way more with a larger hook, like the ones on spoons or jigs, but less so with tiny hooks like chironomids as those dig right in on the edge of the fish's lip

always reel as fast as you can while running away from the water and drag all your fish as far on to shore as you can. Why do you think it's called "landing" ?

LOL, never thought of it that way... gave me a good laugh thanks

[psd1179]

don't agree that you have to use a larger hook.

Best Advice I have is make sure your hook is sharp, as sharp as you can buy or sharpen it carefully with an appropriate tool like an eze lap sportsman's diamond hone or a good metal file. Hooks must be sharp enough to scratch or dig into your finger nail with light pressure. My thumbnails are covered in scratches from using this test.

Why there is hook size restriction in Thompson river regulation?

[RalphH]

Why there is hook size restriction in Thompson river regulation?

Gee, I have no idea! Why don't you tell us? It might be good for a laugh.

Also, please point out the regulation details.

BTW I don't agree barbless hooks have to be bigger so your comment is a sort of non-sequitar.

[psd1179]

Gee, I have no idea! Why don't you tell us? It might be good for a laugh.

Also, please point out the regulation details.

BTW I don't agree barbless hooks so your comment is a sort of non-sequitar.

THOMPSON RIVER (downstream of signs at Kamloops Lake outlet to the confluence with Fraser River)
No hooks greater than 15mm from point to shank, Oct 1-Dec 31


Bigger hook will easily penetrate into fish brain and kill the smaller fish. how often the spoon guy found the hook come out of the fish eye?

[RalphH]

I can't find that specific reg though there was an in season change for the Fraser from the mouth of the Thompson downstream to the CNR bridge about 1 km downstream. This was part of the changes brought in last summer to protect IFS steelhead. See page pg 34 https://www2.gov.bc.ca/assets/gov/sports-recreation-arts-and-culture/outdoor-recreation/fishing-and-hunting/freshwater-fishing/fishing_synopsis.pdf

To prevent you from continuing to tilt at wind mills, I don't disagree with you that larger gape hooks can kill fish just that they are not necessary to offset the disadvantages (whatever they may be) of barbless hooks.

You understand I am saying continue to use whatever hook size you'd normally use. I don't even use barbed hooks anymore and I switched completely close to 40 years ago

Also a 15mm gap is like a #1/0 to #4/0 hook depending on the specific model, style, brand etc. You use those for trout up there in the winter do you?

[RalphH]

I usually check the sharpness of my hooks regularly with the "thumbnail test", and do carry my hook sharpener with me.

Can't even count the number of times where a fish grabs the spoon really close to me, I set with the rod tip high, the the fish flips and spins like mad, and poof the hook gets ripped out of it's mouth. I actually have this happening way more with a larger hook, like the ones on spoons or jigs, but less so with tiny hooks like chironomids as those dig right in on the edge of the fish's lip

Some things you can try:

- use shorter shank hooks - longer shank hooks are thought by many to lever the point out of the fishes mouth. I avoid using a hook that is more than 3x long.

- use hooks with a round or "model perfect" bend which are better than most other bends for holding a hook set

- many swear by sickle hooks

- use thinner wire hooks when practical

- use hooks that are offset where practical. You can carefully add a slight offset to a straight siwash hook, the type usually supplied on spoons and spinners

- avoid up-eyed hooks unless you can tie the leader directly to the hook shank (ie using an egg loop)

- use an open loop knot such as the rapala or non-slip loop. I find these knots superior to clinch or trilene knots

Somewhere in the General Discussion is a post by Everyday on replacing the siwash hooks on spoons with an octopus hook attached by a short loop of dacron line. Those who tried it say it is the bomb! Another similar approach is to lengthen the distance of the hook from the back of a spoon or spinner via a barrle swivel and split rings. Octopus hooks usually have better holding power than siwash hooks.

[clarki]

Geez, I wish I had chironomidking's landing ratio! I routinely to lose over a third of the fish I hook.

In 2019 I had a 51% landing ration on cutthroat (hooked 49, landed 25) and a 68% landing ratio on coho (hooked 41, landed 28). This using a variety of artificials: spoons/spinners, jigs and fly. I didn't keep as good record for stillwater rainbows but I easily lost a third of them too.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I think it's just the nature of the beast. I accept my destiny. Better to have loved and lost than never have loved at all.

Many fish are lost on the jump. Sometimes, but not often, I will put the rod tip underwater during a fight to keep a jumpy fish from being jumpy.  But it sure is a thing of beauty to see a fish jump one way and to see my lure go the other.

Another piece of advice (that I find hard to follow myself) is be patient and don't get desperate to land the fish. Trust your drag. Many of the fish I lose on a single action fly reel are on the initial hookset when I tighten my hand too heavy/too long on the reel or I panic during a long run and clamp down too firmly and I believe I pull the hook out.  There's a balance between harming the fish by playing it too long, and losing it by playing it too heavy. Sometimes I can't find that balance!                     
 

[CohoJake]

Another piece of advice (that I find hard to follow myself) is be patient and don't get desperate to land the fish. Trust your drag. Many of the fish I lose on a single action fly reel are on the initial hookset when I tighten my hand too heavy/too long on the reel or I panic during a long run and clamp down too firmly and I believe I pull the hook out.  There's a balance between harming the fish by playing it too long, and losing it by playing it too heavy. Sometimes I can't find that balance!                     

Agreed.  I always need to remind myself to thoroughly loosen my drag after landing a spring or chum.  I noticed a big improvement in landing coho when I went to a lighter drag, and to some extent finer wire hooks.  The soft-mouthed species (like coho, pinks and sockeye) demand a light touch.

[RalphH]

my landing ratio on trout is well over 50%. For coho pinks and chum on a fly also somewhere 60 to 75%. Somewhat lower using gear and spinners/spoons.

For hot fish particularly as they get close and start to panic I will drop the rod point to about 45 degree and loosen the drag or feed line. With fly tackle I will hand strip the line as the fish gets close and I have been able to get it on the reel. I also believe holding the rod at an angle to the side rather than straight up helps in tiring a fish and keeping the point in the jaw.