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[fishseeker]

After a number of years fishing with short floating techniques,  I have finally pulled out the old 9wt again to give it a go on the chums - at least as a starting point before I even attempt to try it out on coho. 

I have a floating line and, as a starting point, I have simply put on 4ft of 12lb mono with the thought that chums aren't too picky about presentation.  I know I will need to invest in something like an intermediate sink tip line but, I am wondering, is there a 'best way' to get a fly down to the right depth with this rather crude setup?

( I have been using either a beaded fly with bit of weight to it or crimping some split shots above a weightless fly. Split shots are really small and I had one about 6 inches from the fly and another about 12 inches up from the fly just to keep the weight spread up along the leader somewhat)

[HOOK]

if your going to fish just a straight dry line you'll need a longer leader. 1 1/2  to 2 times the depth your fishing in order to allow your fly to get down. Proper mending will also help the fly sink to the correct depth. Split shot is a good option but a weighted fly is better so that it still swims how you would like or use both if you can't get down.

You DO NOT need to buy an entire new fly line. If your fly line has a loop in it then just buy a couple 10' sink tips and loop/loop connect them and basically create your own versa tip system. If your line does not have a loop take it into a shop and have them create one in the end or do it yourself. This is the best option for salmon fishing

[fishseeker]

if your going to fish just a straight dry line you'll need a longer leader. 1 1/2  to 2 times the depth your fishing in order to allow your fly to get down. Proper mending will also help the fly sink to the correct depth. Split shot is a good option but a weighted fly is better so that it still swims how you would like or use both if you can't get down.

You DO NOT need to buy an entire new fly line. If your fly line has a loop in it then just buy a couple 10' sink tips and loop/loop connect them and basically create your own versa tip system. If your line does not have a loop take it into a shop and have them create one in the end or do it yourself. This is the best option for salmon fishing

Thanks Hook,  I know about the versa tip option.  Just got to get myself to a shop that sells them when I get the opportunity.

[RalphH]

versaleaders from Rio or Poly leaders from Airflo are your best option and pretty reasonable in terms of $. For chums buy the salmon leaders and loop or knot in your choice of tippet. Using standard sink tippets may present some issues with hinging as the tip of the floating line will be thinner and lighter than the back of any sink tip.

[Knnn]

^^^ all this is excellent advice.

I would only add one thing, also try to find yourself some 2-4 foot deep water in which the chum lie, to make your life easier!  This can be found fairly readily on the Stave and Squamish and you do not need to dredge the bottom to attract fish, if they are fairly fresh they will come up and hammer the right colours and presentation.  Chum are most obliging like that! 

On my 8 wt single, I run 4' 15 lbs and and 4-5' of 12 in water than is less than 4 feet deep and then switch to a light versi sink tip for deeper water.  All the flies I use for chum have big beads or bum bell eyes (you can't go too wrong with purple/pink, pink/chartreuse, chartreuse/black or straight chartreuse with a brass coloured bead).

GL

[fishseeker]

This is all great info and I will go with the Rio or Poly leaders like RalphH suggested when I can get myself out to a shop.  I encounter that deeper walking pace water often enough so I think I can justify forking out a few bucks for one.

Bear in mind, I am none too technical here so I am curious as to what is meant by "hinging". What kind of issues do you encounter with that? (I know it can be a bit delicate when the interface between the sink tip and the floating line goes through the eye of the rod - I have a sink tip/floating setup on my 6wt and found I was OK provided I was careful)

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

[Sandman]

Bear in mind, I am none too technical here so I am curious as to what is meant by "hinging". What kind of issues do you encounter with that? (I know it can be a bit delicate when the interface between the sink tip and the floating line goes through the eye of the rod - I have a sink tip/floating setup on my 6wt and found I was OK provided I was careful)

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

"Hinging" refers to the poor transmission of energy at that interface between the line and sink tip (or line and leader even) during the cast, causing the collapse of the loop (if one even forms), whereby the cast itself slowly folds to a stop before getting any distance.

[clarkii]

"Hinging" can also refer to the effect of a fly lifting and dropping,  all while losing a tight conmection due to the loop to loop connection between the floating line and the sink tip.  This is less of a problem on integrated sink tip lines as the line is one piece.

[fishseeker]

Thanks much.   I guess "hinging" is something I will have to learn to live with (Just gets too expensive buying all the different kinds of lines otherwise).

[Animal Chin]

Does "hinging" only affect the cast, or does it have an impact on the presentation of the fly as well? Like once it hits the water, the fly behaves basically the same?

If the connecting (loop) ends are about the same thickness, will this eliminate "hinging".

Sorry if the answer seems obvious. I'm just wondering if there is a significant difference with regards to presentation between:

- using a floating line and a sinking polyleader/versileader (relatively thin connecting end and tapered)

- using a Versatip like system with "sinktips" or bulk "T" material (eg. 10ft ... thick ends untapered)

No expert obviously, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand to make a "poor man's versatip  system you take a floating line, cut off the tapered end (eg. 10 ft), and get loops welded on, then you can buy different tips or chunks of "T" material at $1/ft. Polyleaders are like $17 each.

[RalphH]

hinging is mostly about casting. In the case of a sink tip looped onto a floating line, the tip of the main line is too light & thin to support the U shape of the casting loop. In the water sink tips also develop a bend or hinge where the sinking tip joins the floating line so there may be a pronounced angle that effects presentation (not always negatively) and also strike detection. Similar problems happen with convention sinking lines since the tapers mean the line sinks at varying rates along it's length and in the water may take on a concave shape. To avoid this you can you use a density compensated line.