Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: yakideath12 on October 22, 2009, 09:35:38 PM
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im planing to buy a 4x4 for fishing. Im thinking $5k max. Any suggestion? ???
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toyota 4 runner or toyota pickup thats already raised up. just make sure the lift and any extras done to any vehicle was done professionally ;)
dont get me wrong i love my Ram 4x4 but if i was going to buy something older i would go toyota hands down.
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I like the 4runners, I have owned a first generation 4runner and loved it. The 4cly 22re are known to go forever, Iv seen many hit the 400 thous km mark. Well Im basically a 4runner lover, I have done jeeps but they seem to always go through problems, but they are well priced. Keep checking out craigslist for the right one to come around, good luck, I hate car hunting...
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Yakideath - there is a guy selling a jacked Jeep ( i think Cherokee) by my place. i think he is asking $2500. not sure if he still has it because i saw this on sunday when i drove by ;)
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4 runners are rust buckets and cherokees blow bull balls only buy a jeep yj or tj the engines are bullet proof owned a yj for 7 years and a tj for 3 which i have now honestly in 10 years ive put a steering box 300$ and tires and rims 2500$ and regular maintenance
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oh yeah buy stock because any jeep that is lifted with big tires the truth is more than likely its been riddin rough off road why else would you lift it with tires.
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4 runners are rust buckets and cherokees blow bull balls only buy a jeep yj or tj the engines are bullet proof owned a yj for 7 years and a tj for 3 which i have now honestly in 10 years ive put a steering box 300$ and tires and rims 2500$ and regular maintenance
what model is ur YJ?
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how about suzuki sidekick?
I dont really wanna go off road... just something that I can drive to chilliwack at winter....last year was nightmare for me ( my car is rear wheel drive)
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i had a 92 yj it was great not i have a 2000 tj theres only one kind
1987-95 jeep yj
1995-2006 jeep tj
2006 -present jeep jk
there all wranglers there all the same just model upgrades, go for the 4.0 litre not the 2.5 litre the 2.5 has no balls what so ever and youll barely reach a 100kmh
suzuki sidekicks and trackers are my smelly socks there crap that breaks all the time
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Just like Hook I love my Dodge Ram but its a 2005 and not in your price range. I would also suggest a used Toyota. I would go for a pick up rather than a 4 Runner though. If its just for 4x4'ing and off roading go with the Toyota pickup.
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I would suggest a Nissan Pathfinder. 5K would get u a second gen(90-95) that came with 3.0 V6, an award winning engine that was known to go forever too. the 4X4 was sweet.
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4Runner or Toyota Pickup with a 22RE. Pretty much indestructible, reliable, comfortable, fuel efficient cheap available parts if needed, fun to drive, handles well for a 4x4, enough power and it goes anywhere. It has room enough for a 6' tall guy to sleep in the back, comfortably slept me a girlfriend. I've slept three people in the back actually once in a pinch.
Pathfinders might be a good bet, but they're not as common and a bit harder to find used parts for. The Isuzu Trooper would also be a good bet. IF you're looking for a truck might look at Nissan as well.
I don't own a Jeep, but the 4 guys I know with Jeeps are always having problems- one is parked with a slipping transmission (Cherokee), another won't engage 4wd (Cherokee), the third used up $20 in gas in 120km (again, Cherokee) fourth was sold because it wouldn't engage 4wd. They all have an abundance of electrical issues they my Toyota wouldn't dream of putting me through and all feel really cheaply built, just like the rest of the domestics IMO.
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If winter snow condition is what you need 4x4 for, then pickup is not a good choice as it's too light at the rear. You'll find your tail skidding, unless you weight it down. Pathfinder is actually a good choice but it's turning radius is huge that's probably the only down side. You might want to look at Jimmy also it's good in snow/mud.
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4 runners are rust buckets and cherokees blow bull balls only buy a jeep yj or tj the engines are bullet proof owned a yj for 7 years and a tj for 3 which i have now honestly in 10 years ive put a steering box 300$ and tires and rims 2500$ and regular maintenance
Promise you 80% of the Toyotas are going to be more reliable than 80% of Jeeps. Reliably issues aside, you can barely fit a fishing rod in a YJ/TJ/Wrangler, the short wheel base make them directionally-challenged on anything slippery compared to a longer wheel base truck. They're also noisy, ride badly, are harsh on gas (with the better, 4.0L engine). I used to want to buy a Wrangler, but those are the reasons I bought a Toyota instead.
As for the rust issue, its hard to find a rust-free Toyota for less than $2-3K, but under 5k should be easy. Besides, a little rust never left anyone stranded like a slipping transmission or a broken rear axle did. ;D
I would suggest a Nissan Pathfinder. 5K would get u a second gen(90-95) that came with 3.0 V6, an award winning engine that was known to go forever too. the 4X4 was sweet.
That engine, as does the 3.0L v6 Toyota made to compete, uses a tonne of gas. The 3.0 Nissan is slightly more reliable from what I've heard. The 4 cyl Toyota 22RE engine gets me 18mpg average in the city, 22 hwy (got 27mpg once).
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I would have to say a jeep hands down easy to fix cheap parts and the frame won't rust through , have had 3 jeeps 1 cj ( the only one I had any real problems with) then a yj and now a 2003 tj have only replaced the rad on all of them lifted and all of them off roaded hard love them period take the roof off in the summer - would like to see a toyota pickup do that plus the toyota parts are crazy expensive and yes they do have their faults ie water pumps , alternators and timing belts see I offroad with a few guys that run toyotas they are good don't get me wrong but parts are expensive :P
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Promise you 80% of the Toyotas are going to be more reliable than 80% of Jeeps. Reliably issues aside, you can barely fit a fishing rod in a YJ/TJ/Wrangler, the short wheel base make them directionally-challenged on anything slippery compared to a longer wheel base truck. They're also noisy, ride badly, are harsh on gas (with the better, 4.0L engine). I used to want to buy a Wrangler, but those are the reasons I bought a Toyota instead.
As for the rust issue, its hard to find a rust-free Toyota for less than $2-3K, but under 5k should be easy. Besides, a little rust never left anyone stranded like a slipping transmission or a broken rear axle did. ;D
That engine, as does the 3.0L v6 Toyota made to compete, uses a tonne of gas. The 3.0 Nissan is slightly more reliable from what I've heard. The 4 cyl Toyota 22RE engine gets me 18mpg average in the city, 22 hwy (got 27mpg once).
well I would like to see that yes it is true the toyotas don't give you as many small problems as jeeps ..... but alot mor bigger problems their preasure systems suck !!!! they have reel crapy suspensions exceptions being there old solid axels so think about it are you just looking for transportation or a go anywhere 4x4 why do you think jeep tjs come stock with solid axels becuase they look pretty :D :D :D :D :D :D you need those for reel rough stuffff
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Do you need a solid axle for the rough stuff? Really? Are your Dana 35's that much stronger? Nope. The Jeeps have maneuverability on their side, but not much else. He's trying to get into some fishing spots, not crawl the Rubicon- solid axle flex not needed. Do tell me how 4Runner suspension sucks... Toyota IFS is about as tough as they get. I hit a 13" tall boulder where I have 12" under my A-arm after a long day on the trail after a hard nigh at about 15km/h- bounced me up a good foot in the air. Alignment checked out fine, frame was fine, paint was scraped though- t-bar IFS weak?
BUT all this is irrelevant seeing as the OP wants a truck for snowy roads, and the 4Runner is going to be better there.
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Best vehicle for all 'round use would be a 97+ 4Runner. However, it's a bit more than your $5k budget. They start around $8k but are dead nuts reliable.
They are roomy, have good power and excellent towing capacity, aren't horrible on gas (unless you beat the heck out of them), and don't cost much to maintain.
If you want to 4wheel it, you'll want a Limited with the rear locker.
Flip the rear seats down, you can sleep in the back when you go steelheading in somewhat remote locales.
The older 4Runners are okay, but they're old. The 3.0L engine vehicles should be avoided at all costs. The 4cyl (22RE) are okay, but you'll find that the newer 5VZ (1997-2003 3.4L) 4Runners are way better in every single way imagineable.
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I'm on my 4th forerunner lease and just love them. I've taken them just about everywhere on back roads, summer winter and fall. Just about covered every back round around lower mainland in past 12 years. Not a single problem.
last year in Idaho, it snowed 1 foot overnight forerunner was able to get around the back roads, no problem at all. The four pickp trucks (varied makes) other guys had all kept getting stuck due to spin outs. They tried putting weight in the back but still didnt do the job.
With its low centre of gravity the forerunner can walk up any hill. Good on ice too. Make sure you get the 17 inch tires at least.Older models may have 16 inch which reduces ground clearance.
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you mean 4Runner haha
The rim size is just the size of the inside diameter of the donut (tire). The outside diameter is what matters. If fact, a 15" rim gives more clearance between the relatively easily-damaged rim and the ground. 15" tires don't fit on later 4Runners because they will contact the brake calipers. For road snow, the taller and narrower the tire, the better the grip. a 235/85r16 snow tire would be wicked for your application as long as you don't mind a bit of a rougher ride (load range E has stiff sidewalls). Its only when the snow is really deep (ie: you shouldn't be going without a buddy and a winch) that you might need a wider tire at cost of ice/ packed snow/ wet road traction.
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It seems Toyota vs jeep now which is more cheaper to fix ?
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Yaki if you are not planning on going off road (something most posters seem to have missed??) you certainly don't need a truck or a jeep. The VERY best winter/mild off road vehicle I've owned (and I've had everything from landcruisers to pickups) was neither of these, it was a subaru impreza. Hands down, for snow up to a half foot deep it outperformed all the others....and on ice, no comparison. It was an awesome vehicle that got me where I needed to go (except tougher 4x4ing) every time.
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Alot of toyota fans in here, I always find it funny when a guy who owns a 4runner calls it a 'forerunner'. Hey, the older toyotas may be rust buckets, but like Matt said they will never let you down...
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It seems Toyota vs jeep now which is more cheaper to fix ?
Toyota. Fewer repairs will be needed and when you do need a new part, you can buy parts used from a wrecker for a fraction of the dealer or Lordco price. I upgraded to a lower ratio rear diff out of a truck with 300 000km, and its still fine. Got it for $150 from a wrecker vs $1000+++ from the dealer.
Yaki if you are not planning on going off road (something most posters seem to have missed??) you certainly don't need a truck or a jeep. The VERY best winter/mild off road vehicle I've owned (and I've had everything from landcruisers to pickups) was neither of these, it was a subaru impreza. Hands down, for snow up to a half foot deep it outperformed all the others....and on ice, no comparison. It was an awesome vehicle that got me where I needed to go (except tougher 4x4ing) every time.
Good point, AWD cars will be safer and handle better than most trucks most of the time with a set of snow tires. But as soon as snow piles up deeper than the bumper, you're not moving anywhere in anything but powder obviously. Trucks are taller off the ground and have more clearance for tire chains.
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WHY ALL THE JEEP HATERS
yes the cherokees suck and break alot but thats because people that own cherokee are mentally challenged buy a yj or a tj there close to problem free and garys auto wrecking in maple ridge has a jeep yj and tj only wrecking yard any and all parts for cheap
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WHY ALL THE JEEP HATERS
yes the cherokees suck and break alot but thats because people that own cherokee are mentally challenged buy a yj or a tj there close to problem free and garys auto wrecking in maple ridge has a jeep yj and tj only wrecking yard any and all parts for cheap
Scot if you only eat crackers you'll never know how good a cookie tastes :) There is a very good reason why there are still numbers of 22R toyotas, 4runners and tacomas on the road after 300-400k on them, and an equally good reason why you don't see very many older jeeps around. Reliability....
It is a fact that jeeps perform well off road (some better than others) but to claim that they are close to problem free....that's just wishy-washy. Check out some reliability reports from a site like consumerreports.org to begin with. You may have been lucky with "heeps" but most are not. Here is just a quick little excerpt from CR....
"The Wrangler is Jeep's smallest, least expensive, and crudest model. It's more comfortable off-road than on, with a choppy ride, numb and slow steering, and clumsy handling. Noise is loud and constant. The 2001 model features a quieter, better-padded convertible top. A four-speed automatic arrived for 2003, replacing the old three-speed unit. A long-wheelbase Unlimited model was added for 2005, featuring more cargo space and slightly more legroom in the back seat. Otherwise, the ride was still dreadful and the steering imprecise. For 2007 a redesigned, and more civil, Wrangler arrived. It has improved ride and handling, but had low cornering limits and vague handling. The 3.8-liter V6 lacks punch and returns just 15 mpg overall."
Every year besides 2001 is dotted with "black spots" in CR..... (that's bad!) The 01's seem to have better reliability than other years but still, see above... It's a REAL stretch to call a jeep reliable.
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It seems Toyota vs jeep now which is more cheaper to fix ?
It's not a matter of what's cheaper to fix, it's the cost of ownership.
If the thing doesn't break much, there won't be much fixing, now will there?
When you're done with your 4Runner, if you don't smash it up, you can sell it for a lot more than you can get for the Jeep.
Test drive them and see which one you like better.
WHY ALL THE JEEP HATERS
I don't hate Jeeps, but I do tug them out of awkward places all the time due to broken drivelines and people being stupid with the skinny pedal.
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I don't think anyone hates Jeeps, just Jeep problems. I used to want a YJ actually. In theory, the should be fun but the execution is lousy and they're about as practical as a Walmart ride-on-mower for a winter vehicle.
Claims like "Jeeps are as reliable" or "you need a solid front axle for rough stuff (like road snow ???)" are just plain incorrect, so they're being corrected.
Also, as stated before, have fun fitting a buddy and a couple drift rod in a YJ/TJ.
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i have a nissan xterra 2004....4x4 power and awesome engine 3.3 v6. good height and suspension. no problems at all with this suv. a 2000 or 2001 would be available around 6-7 grand if you are interested. i would say a 4runner is better but its alway gonna cost more for a toyota. :)
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i have a nissan xterra 2004....4x4 power and awesome engine 3.3 v6. good height and suspension. no problems at all with this suv. a 2000 or 2001 would be available around 6-7 grand if you are interested. i would say a 4runner is better but its alway gonna cost more for a toyota. :)
my brother has one of these as well and we beat the hell out of it before bringing it back to it's REAL owner, washed and no worse for wear (his wife owns it) :)
TIRES TOO......they will make a huge difference on whatever you buy...probably more than the vehicle itself for snow/ice. I've run the michelin latitude x-ices on the taco and my wifes pilot for a few years now, excellent tires and they wear very well if you change them out after winter. Makes my toyo ATs feel like they're coated with teflon on the slippery stuff. So whatever you do, get good tires...those roads can get slick.
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Had a Jeep grand cherokee for a long time. things just like to fall apart on that thing. I now have a tacoma. So far so good but Ive only had it for a few months. It is nice to be able to stick the boat in the bed
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good points marmont ill agree with a bit i must have good luck ten years 2 wranglers only 300$ in repairs other than maintenance
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Hey now, Barbie was probably one of the more durable pieces of plastic ever found in a Jeep haha
There are 4Runners out there in decent shape for $3-4K (pickups are usually more like $4-5K+ for a decent one). That would leave you enough cash to pick up a set of tires which arguably is just as, or more important than vehicle selection when trying to keep a vehicle on the road on ice. You have two decent choices here- a good winter-rated all terrain tire (ie: BFG TA/KO all terrain) or a true winter tire (ie: Nokian Hakkapeletia sp?). I haven't had issues running all-terrains, but in a couple cases, it certainly would have been nice to have true snow tires when faced with black ice.
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Do yourself a favour and put the Sidekick/Tracker on your short list. These vehicles are bomb proof. The downfalls are they ride like a truck and you probably won't be doing much sleeping in it (unless you are under 5' tall ). Oh, and your clearance isn't what you are going to get with most Jeeps or Toyotas - but you would be suprised were these little guys can sneak into. Fuel economy should be
in the neibourhood of 28 to 30 mpg city or highway. Good in snow, can carry 4 adults with gear although a little cramped, and won't leave you on the side of the road. Can't say enough about these trucks. Have a look for yourself to see if it fits your application.
Toyotas are hard to beat but Sidekicks and Trackers are little gems that shouldn't be overlooked....
Just another note: Cost of repairs is always a topic that comes up when comparing vehicles. This is my opinion - I have worked in the
auto repair field for quite a few years - cost's of maintaining a vehicle go up with frequency of repairs required. You will replace many parts on a Jeep and few on a Toyota/Suzuki.
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from all the opinions, I better go test drive those cars. Also, I didnt mention that its only for winter term. Other than winter time(steelhead season), I might not drive
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Didn't the drop the Blazer because of reliability issues as well as horrible gas mileage? The 4.3L motor itself was quite reliable IIRC (enough so that its a common crate engine for Toyota buggies), but everything else was kind of junky. '90's GM products aren't known for reliability.
You'd be taking a fairly big risk taking a shifty truck out fishing in winter. Fishing inherently takes you to more remote roads away from immediate help. How much do you want to get stranded overnight on a remote road in damp -15*C during a cold snap like last year because your truck left your stranded? Not an option for me, so I bought the most reliable rig I could afford for $5K. It has never let me down.
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1608/57/103/122505749/n122505749_33745674_5482.jpg)
(http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1608/57/103/122505749/n122505749_33745670_4191.jpg)
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Suzukis and trackers are awesome and cheap. Too much traction in the snow and mud. I had a 91 for four years and only got rid of it because it was a rust bucket beater and didn't want to spend money on a new clutch. Bought it for 3 grand and sold it for $650. Only thing you need to watch out for is the CPUs are crazy expensive to replace. But all together a fun little fishing car and easy on gas.
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Coho, you'd be correct with your assumption that the chains in an inch of powder had a lot to do with an icy off camber road beside a frozen river. My comment was hardly a personal affront, just I would reconsider calling a '90's GM truck reliable, 4.3L or not. You don't see many still around do you relative to plethora sold. I'll bet its a fun truck, with a powerful engine great, but maybe not the best choice for a reliable winter fishing truck when the buyer is looking for a low-repair-budget truck.
I'll bet the upper Chilliwack feels pretty remote when you get back to the truck after dark in the snow, last one off the road that night.
The Tracker is pretty reliable from what I've heard, if its big enough, it might not be a bad choice either. Finding used parts might be a little tougher than more common trucks, but chances are that you won't need to make many repairs antways.
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Here's my take.
Cherokees are cheap to buy and the drivetrain is strong on the 91's and up, but everything else on it will fall apart. - I own one and don't recommend it.
Toyota pickup or 4runners are very reliable but expensive to purchase and hold their value. Watch out for timing chain, headgasket, and frame rust issues. If I had 5-8 grand to spend this is what I'd get.
Suzuki Samurai - uncomfortable, loud, overpriced, but easy to work on and incredible offroad stock. - not recommended unless you're an offroader (I own one)
Suzuki Sidekick - inexpensive to purchase , easy to repair (unless the computer goes), suprisingly good offroad, pretty good fuel economy, and alot more suitable than a samurai for a daily driver. The downside is you'll look like a chick driving one.
If you're looking for an inexpensive daily driver I'd search for a good sidekick or Toyota Pickup/4runner.
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i am thinking of downsizing my vehicle and was thinking of the honda crv but the toyota 4runner seems to be a good choice too. why not buy a smaller suv? is the all wheel drive not that good?
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i am thinking of downsizing my vehicle and was thinking of the honda crv but the toyota 4runner seems to be a good choice too. why not buy a smaller suv? is the all wheel drive not that good?
Couple years ago, I had a AWD SUV, it was fine but AWD isnt good much as 4wd
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Suzuki Sidekick - inexpensive to purchase , easy to repair (unless the computer goes), suprisingly good offroad, pretty good fuel economy, and alot more suitable than a samurai for a daily driver. The downside is you'll look like a chick driving one.
If you're looking for an inexpensive daily driver I'd search for a good sidekick or Toyota Pickup/4runner.
...when the computer fails, it's a $300 repair but you have to know how to diagnose and then where to take the ECM for repairs.
If you drop the box at the dealership they will ding you about $500 and have it back to you in a week.
Stick to unmodified vehicles if you want reliability and ease of repairs. Definately get snow tires if you're doing mostly road driving, or BFG A/T for dirt roads and whatnot. We drove my friend's impreza with snowtires on many many trips. Nothing that we couldn't get to as long as we had a shovel.
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Anyone have any experience with a Mitsubishi Delica? I see lots on the road around here. They are 4 wheel drive and diesel to boot. I currently have a 2002 GMC Jimmy 4-door 4x4 Auto 4.3l V6 and was thinking of changing it. Would I be better off upgrading the Jimmy a bit (Tires, Shocks, Lift Kit, Tow Package)?
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go test drive a couple and get a bcaa inspection they cot 100$ and trust me only buy a stock vehicle
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Good call scottkemp on buying a stock truck- buying someone else's hack job is a nightmare. I found a lot of people selling their trucks no longer have insurance and prefer if BCAA came around to their place. I've found the mobile inspections to be second rate at best. They missed a lot of stuff. I find a certified shop with a hoist does a better job. Not sure if its BCAA or just the conditions and tools they have while inspecting the vehicle outdoors, but neither time I've done that has it worked out well.
Stuff I've found to be aware of on 4Runners (and Toyota trucks, where applicable) are:
- 3.0L V6. First, the head gaskets. They are not a strong point with this engine due to the exhaust manifold design radiates heat and cooks the headgasket. The HG is a big job on that engine as the engine bay is cramped. Next the gas milage on the V6 is bad. All round the 4 cyl is a better engine if a little less powerful
- power back window motor. Ideally, find one that is still strong
- As with most other vehicles, out of province 4RUnners are often rusty. The Toyota body will exhibit a lot of rust, but that's purely aesthetic. The frame rusts at the same rate as any other vehicle, but is about 4x as much metal as say a Ford Ranger (just because I spent time under a Ford Ranger) per foot of frame, frame rust, while seldom structural due to the beefiness of the frame, does make it tougher to work on, if you ever needed work done
- If steering feels vague during the test drive, its probably the idler arm bushing ($2 at dealership, 15min install)
- check the timing chain (if you look at a 22RE 4cyl) has been done in the last 100K, if it does break, it can wipe out the motor. It very seldom breaks if they've been replaced in the last 100k. If the motor has a loud metallic ticking, it is likely the chain slapping, meaning that the plastic guides are past they're 100k lifespan and have broken. At this point the engine need the chain and guides replaced.
Honestly can't think of anything else worthy of mention.
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^^ Yes to all the above points on the 90-96 4Runners.
Just say no to the 3.0L engine.
Get a 97+ because they are much much better. Or go with a 22RE (2.4L 4 cyl) but they are rare.
As for vehicle pre-purchase inspections, nobody knows these vehicles as well as the Toyota dealership.
I'd ask them to retract the front caliper pistons and bleed the fluid to check their condition. Seized calipers are popular on vehicles that don't see regular brake caliper maintenance.
Maintenance is easy to do yourself. Just retract the pistons with the bleeder valve open (and a hose on it) every year or so. Then bleed the brakes as you normally would. It's easier to do with the rims off, but it can be done if you have skinny 9" channel-lock pliers. If the pistons are stuck, pm me and I can give you a hand.
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i am thinking of downsizing my vehicle and was thinking of the honda crv but the toyota 4runner seems to be a good choice too. why not buy a smaller suv? is the all wheel drive not that good?
Crossovers are based off cars, 4Runners, Blazers, Sidekicks, etc are truck-based SUVs. Truck-based SUVs have a body-on-frame designed that is tougher but rides a little harsher, also usually more of a step-up to climb in (if you have a short wife or GF, you might want running boards). The underbellies are less vulnerable to damgage and are usually higher off the ground. The older truck-based SUVs usually have part time 4wd systems that can send pull power to front or rear, whichever has traction, but you don't usually drive on dry roads with part time 4wd, so you have to judge when 4wd is appropriate- humans are usually much better judge than cars though so I prefer this. The handling is crisper and more car-like with the crossover (CRV, RAV4, Equinox, Escap, Forester etc), but the AWD system is little more than a front wheel drive that can send a negligible amount of power to the rear wheels. Crossovers are lighter weight, get better mpg and less prone to rolling over.
For off road travel truck-based SUVs are better and offer fewer compromises, but car-based cross-overs are slightly better-suited to the city if you're used to driving a car. I prefer the truck-based SUV as I feel that crossovers don't offer much more utility than tiny minivans.
*** the Jeep Cherokee is a unibody SUV (doesn't have a truck frame) but is built like a truck based SUV in all other respects, so it can be lumped in with that group for all intensive purposes.
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^^ Yes to all the above points on the 90-96 4Runners.
Just say no to the 3.0L engine.
Get a 97+ because they are much much better. Or go with a 22RE (2.4L 4 cyl) but they are rare.
As for vehicle pre-purchase inspections, nobody knows these vehicles as well as the Toyota dealership.
I'd ask them to retract the front caliper pistons and bleed the fluid to check their condition. Seized calipers are popular on vehicles that don't see regular brake caliper maintenance.
Maintenance is easy to do yourself. Just retract the pistons with the bleeder valve open (and a hose on it) every year or so. Then bleed the brakes as you normally would. It's easier to do with the rims off, but it can be done if you have skinny 9" channel-lock pliers. If the pistons are stuck, pm me and I can give you a hand.
Very hard to find a 96+ 4Runner for under $5k- they just retain their value too long for that to happen yet. x2 on the calipers, people don't generally maintain old trucks well and the calipers are one of the first parts to suffer accordingly on any old vehicle.
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Crossovers are based off cars, 4Runners, Blazers, Sidekicks, etc are truck-based SUVs.
I prefer the truck-based SUV as I feel that crossovers don't offer much more utility than tiny minivans.
I have both. We drive a Toyota Highlander and a Toyota pickup truck. The Highlander with 4 snow tires has never been stuck in the city or when we go skiing. As long as there is a road, it's fine with fresh or old crusty snow that hasn't been plowed.
I haven't had the opportunity to take it offroad in the winter, we take the pickup truck 4wheeling instead because it has full recovery gear, and I can stick a small boat in the bed of the truck.
Very hard to find a 96+ 4Runner for under $5k- they just retain their value too long for that to happen yet. x2 on the calipers, people don't generally maintain old trucks well and the calipers are one of the first parts to suffer accordingly on any old vehicle.
Yes, I did note above (see post#17) that the 97+ 4Runners are in the $8k range, but well worth the extra funds. Resale is much better too. If I did find a 97+ in the $5k range, it would probably be a real heap and not worth buying.
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Hey Matt, I have a question about the 22re could you send me an email?
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hey matt u sure know shxt about trucks eh, gotta ask for your ideas the next time i am getting a truck (in 2 months) ;)
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go test drive a couple and get a bcaa inspection they cot 100$ and trust me only buy a stock vehicle
bcaa inspection? what do they do? can you explain more specific plz?
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ouch a stake to the heart ::) funny how you think you know it all when you dont. The squamish isnt very remote buddy, maybe you should come out one time and see if you sit with the boys or fish with the men.
Perhaps refrain from childish insults in a thread about trucks, just because I disagree with you doesn't mean I'm undermining your intelligence/ manliness/ sexual orientation/ fishing ability. Responses like that do however undermine your maturity.
As for the Squamish, go up there sometime, mid Jan midweek after 4pm, and try thumbing a ride back. Point is, your in for a miserable night if you get stuck/ break down in on just about any river road if you happen to be one of the last guys out and your truck packs it in. Last year, I was up there until dark on a night when the river was forming ice from the bottom up. My thermometer showed -21*C and my wading boots were freezing to rocks on the bottom of the river. I was moving pretty slow because of the conditions and made it back to the car at dark. Only a couple tire tracks on the road that day in total and they were long gone. I give the suggestion of an imported SUV because I have confidence that should the OP find himself in the same position, there is smaller chance that he may get stranded and half to spend a very miserable night.
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seems like going side way... ::)
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CohoC, this is getting stupid, you're arguing with me about an area you've never been too from the sounds of it. Cell coverage eh? Lots of people fished the upper S this year?
I've never taken a shop class, just wrenched. Alot. I've worked in some capacity or another on Toyota (22R, 22RE, 3VZ-E, 3VZ-FE 4Runners, Camrys, 4wd and P/Us, Corolla), Jeep (YJ, TJ) Dodges (Caravan), Honda (Civic), Ford (Ranger), Peugeot, GMC (yep, a Jimmy), Mercedes (300 and 280 SD), VW (Eurovan, Jetta, old Beetle) and probably more I can't remember at the moment. That's not to say I've replace the headgasket on each, as I haven't, but I have spent enough time under enough cars and trucks to qualify my opinions. I've rebuilt an engine, set up backlash on a couple diffs, installed lockers, replaced entire suspension systems, done more brake work than I ever wanted to do, rewired a lot of circuits, aligned cars on my driveway that have over 20K on my aligments without any extra noticeable wear, dropped gas tanks, replaced and rebuilt alternators, starters, repacked wheel bearings, replaced idler arms, TRE's, ball joints, timing chains etc. I really could go on ad nauseum, but I think I've made my point
CohoC, before you post anymore about reliability of vehicles, places you haven't ever been or semantics, please state the extent of your experience with cars and trucks.
PS. Domestics are used by gov./ cities because domestics provide fleet pricing, whereas imports don't. Gov and city vehicles are replaced usually within less than 10 years as well. Repairs are done by city mechanics as well. Part of the city job is job creation to reduce unemployment, better to buy vehicles cheap, have them worked on by people you employ.
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this topic is to bash vehicles like
toyotas blow major balls and jeeps rock
this topic is not supposed to be a people bashing forum
just my 2 cents
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why does this sound like 2 kids squabbling ::) ::)
this post is supposed to be about information on good 4x4 vehicles. How about we get back on track eh
Edit - good point to the original post CC. I drive a Ram and it got around in the deep snow like it wasnt even there but then again i have 35" muds on it ;D
Yakideath - if you go with a truck even a 2wheel just get mud & snow tires and you shouldnt have a problem. I used to have a 2wheel Dakota and only got stuck once going up a slippery ice covered hill. I went back to the bottom and ran it faster and made it just fine. Blizzaks on your car would probably help out huge !!
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bcaa inspection? what do they do? can you explain more specific plz?
If you have a BCAA membership they can send a tech to look at a vehicle with you and tell you if it's a pile of junk or not. They can't be super thorough, given the conditions that they work in, but can often tell you to run away from a certain vehicle.
A pre-purchase inspection is always a wise investment. Generally, it's best to take the vehicle to the dealership because the techs there are intimately familiar with them.
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thanks matt for the in depth knowledge about crv's vs truck like suv's. all help appreciated.
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Forgot to mention that a crossover isn't going to have a low range box so thats another limitation. Low range does add traction per se, but allows you to better control the usage of the traction available to you in tricky situations. Low range is also nice on a boat ramp so you don't have to rev the nuts out of your engine if its a lower torque motor.
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just a few interesting 4x4 clips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qr8eEWyKQHM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrk6vsb77xk (this one's amazing)
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cool video ;D
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I drove a 94 jeep grand cherokee for 15 years until I crashed it last winter. I currently drive a 02 grand cherokee. For the same years, a used grand cherokee would be a lot cheaper to buy than a used 4runner (compare years and prices on craigslist). However, reliability will definitely be an issue with a Jeep. The engines are very good, but the transmissions and differential will more often than not will require rebuilding after about 200k km. And things like water pump, fuel pump, leaky a/c will, cat converter will break down over time and require replacing. If you want to consider a jeep, find out if these things have been rebuilt or replaced; it will always be a matter of time or miles. Also, I would suggest that you find one with a selec-trac transfer case which are more durable and allow you to switch from 2 wheel drive to part or full-time 4 wheel drive.