Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Xgolfman on February 26, 2007, 09:29:34 PM
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So, when your rigging up, how do you use your lead???
Do you use those rubber sleeves and tie it on leaving it stationary?
Do you use hollow core and let it ride?
Do you use split shot? If so what size?
I've been using split shot size 2 and 3 lately, It's fast to rig up and you can add or subtract weight the easiest just about of all methods...
I do find the odd tangle and to be honest...I wonder if it distracts the fish when short floating or if it tangles faster in pocket water???
I like the hollow core the best but it takes the longest to rig or re rig....but snags up probably the least of the two...
Also, as a side note...I've heard the praise of short floating many times on here but I am beginning to think the best way is to bottom bounce your lead where your feeling the tic of the lead every so often....that way I know where I'm at and can adjust it quicker....What are your methods or thoughts on this???
Hey, It's Monday night and the sonics are winning for a change..that's how bored I am...
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I scrounged up so many bouncing betties during the low water, that I use the one ounce ones for weight. They actually get your presentation right down there real good. But they look a little suspicious below the float so I only use about 16 inch leader to not look to flossy/snaggy/baggy. Mind you I haven't been hauling them in either :-\ I might as well use a rock in some nylon for a weight.
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I recently switched from pencil lead to split shot. To prevent your main line from getting nicked as Freak mentions, try the following:
1) Tie a small swivel onto your mainline.
2) Tie a piece of 20 - 25 test mono onto the swivel maybe 12 - 15 inches long.
3) Tie another swivel at the other end of the mono.
4) Pinch your split-shot to the heavier line.
5) Tie your regular leader to the bottom swivel.
This gives you two more swivels that you wouldn't normally have had, and it increases the action of your bait.
(http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/59/759/8/93/95/2838893950038215278EPNOtm_th.jpg) (http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2838893950038215278EPNOtm)
(http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/57/457/3/16/60/2365316600038215278WjDiDv_th.jpg) (http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2365316600038215278WjDiDv)
(http://thumb18.webshots.net/t/53/553/0/76/2/2423076020038215278FkAysC_th.jpg) (http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2423076020038215278FkAysC)
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I've seen some guys that attach a snap swivel at the end of their mainline then out of their vest they pull (like shown above) a heavier bit of line with the weight with two barrel swivels. then they pull out pretied leaders with another snap swivel at the end. No matter what section breaks the most they end up tying is one knot. But most of the time they just snap on a new leader. After snapping off they can be fishing again in less than 25-30seconds. Plus you have 4 swivels on your line which is great for the infamous coho roll.
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i like to use split shot as well and i also put on a little heavier line like kelso said as it did chew up my main of several occasions but now i just started to use slinkys and I'm finding them to work well more time spent making them but once their made they are easy to use
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I find that if I plan to fish a lot of pocket water, then split shot is a bad idea..I think the chain of shot can wrap around rocks etc much easier than pencil lead.
As well, if I am fishing thru a bunch of different water (opposed to the consistent runs like lickman or peach) then, I prefer pencil lead as I think the bottom is much easier to feel with a chunk of lead at the bottom of your line opposed to spaced out split shot. The quicker I know exactly when I am too deep, the sooner I will shorten up and save my gear. I tend to space my shot out quite a bit and I think that bottom shot can often be left in the rocks without a ton of indication on the float. On the other hand, if your pencil lead touches down, immidiately your float wont sit straight up and down.
One word of caution about using heavy line between 2 swivels to attach split shot too, if you snag your weights that means you are going to loose everything below the top swivel and possibly a float too...not my ideal. When I fish my CP, I run a drennan on 15lb main, 2 swivels with 18-24 inches of 12lb and split shot, and then my leader of 6-10lb line. If I snag my weights, I always get my drennan back.
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I tried split shot again this year and I found that is gets tangled up too much for my liking, an nice piece of hollow core lead on the mainline works great, rarely snags up and never gets tangled
TH
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i like to use split shot as well and i also put on a little heavier line like kelso said as it did chew up my main of several occasions but now i just started to use slinkys and I'm finding them to work well more time spent making them but once their made they are easy to use
I forgot about slinkys..I have some sitting here too...Ill add that to the poll...thanks,
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I tried out slinkies while fishing with Nuggy on Sunday. I had no issues at all but I think it will take another few tries before I have enough data to make a recommendation. Good poll XG.
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I use slinkies for snaggy water, split shot for pools and runs I know well that require stealth, and pencil lead for everything else. I will also use split shot if I'm fishing a small lure without a float that requires weight to cast or stay in the zone.
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Here's a method that hasn't been mentioned yet that I have been using since the beginning...
-Tie your leader to your swivel, but leave a tag end after the knot is tied, usually an inch of tag end is more than enough, then tie your mainline to the swivel.
- Next, take your hollow core pencil lead coil and break off the desired length and slide it flush to the swivel onto the tag end of the leader knot. Crimp once or twice lightly on the first centimeter of lead right below the swivel , and then once more right at the swivel. the key is in how much you crimp the weight, you want it not too tight, but not lose enough that it flies off when you cast.
Usually if you snag up somehow, just the weight slides off the tag end and everything else comes back to you. If you need to change the amount of weight you're using to adjust to particular flow conditions, just carefully pull the lead off the tag end with steady pressure, usually it comes right off if you crimped it right. Then cut a new piece of lead accordingly and just slide it back on the tag end and crimp it just like the first time.
It takes a little bit of practice to get the desired level of crimping just right, but in my opinion it is by far the most efficient and user friendly way to do it. Saves a lot of time too, I've tried the other methods and they don't compare with this one, it's the best all purpose method I've been able to come up with.
As for short floating, I prefer not to be ticking bottom much at all. Some fish will take way up off the bottom, others won't. I like to find bottom and then adjust so that my presentation is 1-3 feet up, depending on the terminal item and the nature of the water being fished.
Try this method of rigging your lead...you'll never go back.
rib
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Rib, good post. I'll give it a try and see. Thx.
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Yeah give it a shot Kelso...I mean to each their own, but, every person I have ever shown this method to or that has watched me rig up comments almost immediately on how fast, simple and versatile a system it is...
That, or they ask something like: "Why didn't I think of that??? :o
I'm surprised it wasn't mentioned here...
Let me know what you think.... ;)
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Will do ! ;D
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Here's a method that hasn't been mentioned yet that I have been using since the beginning...
-Tie your leader to your swivel, but leave a tag end after the knot is tied, usually an inch of tag end is more than enough, then tie your mainline to the swivel.
- Next, take your hollow core pencil lead coil and break off the desired length and slide it flush to the swivel onto the tag end of the leader knot. Crimp once or twice lightly on the first centimeter of lead right below the swivel , and then once more right at the swivel. the key is in how much you crimp the weight, you want it not too tight, but not lose enough that it flies off when you cast.
Usually if you snag up somehow, just the weight slides off the tag end and everything else comes back to you. If you need to change the amount of weight you're using to adjust to particular flow conditions, just carefully pull the lead off the tag end with steady pressure, usually it comes right off if you crimped it right. Then cut a new piece of lead accordingly and just slide it back on the tag end and crimp it just like the first time.
It takes a little bit of practice to get the desired level of crimping just right, but in my opinion it is by far the most efficient and user friendly way to do it. Saves a lot of time too, I've tried the other methods and they don't compare with this one, it's the best all purpose method I've been able to come up with.
As for short floating, I prefer not to be ticking bottom much at all. Some fish will take way up off the bottom, others won't. I like to find bottom and then adjust so that my presentation is 1-3 feet up, depending on the terminal item and the nature of the water being fished.
Try this method of rigging your lead...you'll never go back.
rib
That's very similar to nymph fishing with a fly...works really well with split shot too and you won't damage your main line....excellent point...damn, sometimes you know enough to realize you don't know anything..or at least remember it....
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ive used that way rid explains. i dont really my self. I fish with the weight dangling, it when fighting a fish it can damage your leader as well.
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Here's a method that hasn't been mentioned yet that I have been using since the beginning...
-Tie your leader to your swivel, but leave a tag end after the knot is tied, usually an inch of tag end is more than enough, then tie your mainline to the swivel.
- Next, take your hollow core pencil lead coil and break off the desired length and slide it flush to the swivel onto the tag end of the leader knot. Crimp once or twice lightly on the first centimeter of lead right below the swivel , and then once more right at the swivel. the key is in how much you crimp the weight, you want it not too tight, but not lose enough that it flies off when you cast.
Usually if you snag up somehow, just the weight slides off the tag end and everything else comes back to you. If you need to change the amount of weight you're using to adjust to particular flow conditions, just carefully pull the lead off the tag end with steady pressure, usually it comes right off if you crimped it right. Then cut a new piece of lead accordingly and just slide it back on the tag end and crimp it just like the first time.
It takes a little bit of practice to get the desired level of crimping just right, but in my opinion it is by far the most efficient and user friendly way to do it. Saves a lot of time too, I've tried the other methods and they don't compare with this one, it's the best all purpose method I've been able to come up with.
As for short floating, I prefer not to be ticking bottom much at all. Some fish will take way up off the bottom, others won't. I like to find bottom and then adjust so that my presentation is 1-3 feet up, depending on the terminal item and the nature of the water being fished.
Try this method of rigging your lead...you'll never go back.
rib
I do that sometimes as well
That's what I have been doing for years!! ;) :) It works well, but sometimes I do change it up a bit!! The rubber tubing worked good for me this weekend!! :)
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You might want to add bouncing betty as a choice :( the sphere is perfect for getting the least resistance in the water. Therefore getting down quicker than disco dan, with bouncy betty.
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I like to use pencil lead, I find on rivers like the Vedder, getting your presentation down right away to be important. The way I rig it is I use a #12 Black w/ interlock snap swivel, I then pierce a hole through a small piece of tubing and attach the tubing to the snap. I only use just over 1 cm of tubing. Lead goes in the tubing obviously and I thead my mainline through the eye of the snap swivel and then tie on a #12 Black Barrel swivel. You can also put a small bead on above the barrel swivel to act as a bumper but I havent found that it makes any difference.