Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Spawn Sack on October 24, 2015, 09:35:03 AM
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I searched the archives for a discussion on this as I SWEAR there was one in the last year or so but I can't find it. Apologies if this is redundant.
So I've always tied mass produced spinners like Blue Fox right to my mainline. No swivel. As far as I know you should not "need" a swivel with such spinners. However when casting from boat for coho the other day I noticed my mainline was getting all twisted up!! It was twisted up so bad I had to cut of 20-30 feet and re-tie >:( I put a snap swivel on the mainline then snapped it to the spinner and problem solved.
However, I just DON'T like the way it looks. Big ugly swivel before my spinner. Looks like something my 8 year old nephew would rig up. I doubt the fish will notice if it decides to pursue this annoying flashy spinning object in the water...but I just don't like it.
I couldn't be bothered to tie this up in the boat but what I was thinking of doing next time is...bead on the mainline that will not go through top eyelet (so you can't reel the swivel in and possibly damage an eyelet(s)), then quality barrel swivel tied to mainline, then a leader say 3 feet or so, then just a small duo-lock at the end of the leader. Quick and easy to switch out spinners/spoons. However I would have to remove the existing split ring and swivel from my spoons (not a big deal), and clip directly to the hole in the spoon.
I also notice that many "locally made" spinners have a swivel added to the spinner, but blue fox etc does not.
How do ya'll rig yours up? Do you think adding a swivel will make the spinner spin less? (I doubt it).
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I always use a swivel and a leader lighter than the main line for spinners spoons etc. Spinners will cause line twist in my experience - even with a swivel you'll get some.
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I always use a swivel at the end unless I'm tied directly to the hook for roe. Just for ease of changing lures.
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I run braid as a mainline and a number 10 swivel with about 3 feet of fluorocarbon leader to my spinners. I get the benefits of having a swivel to release the twisting action of the spinner and having fluorocarbon leader is invisible to easily spooked fish. I also find its a lot easier to tie fluorocarbon with cold hands than braided line.
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Use of a ball bearing swivel , rather than a barrel swivel, can help to minimize line twist
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Bead chain swivel works very well if twist is a real problem, mostly I use a very small black swivel and three feet of leader. Often back when I used spoons I would remove the stock swivel also.
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The thing I find is that most people use swivels and snaps that are way to big. I run a 12lbs line and 8lbs leader. Even the smallest swivel I can find is usually rated for 15lbs breaking strength. I have never had one fail before the line. I have most of my wools, spinners and spoons pre-tied on 2' leaders before I head out, I will also tie a few bare hooks with bait loops. That way I can change instantly if I need.
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Thanks guys. Well I changed my set up a bit. Mainline (20lb Suffix 832 braid) through a bead then bead to a quality barrel swivel. Bead is obviously to stop an accidental reeling in of the swivel through the ceramic rod guides. Would suck to damage one with the swivel! Bead prevents this.
Then about 3 feet of 15lb maxima UG to a duo-lock.
I remove the swivel and split ring from all my spoons. Super quick and easy to change up. Yeah now there will be a duo-lock above my spinners instead of just a mono knot but I can live with it.
IMO running fluorocarbon to a lure (esp a big one for salmon) is totally unnecessary. If they are going to hit something big, flashy and obnoxious they are going to hit it! But if you like flouro then by all means use it. I've had bad luck with knots busting tying flouro to swivels. However I have not had a problem with loop knots to a fly, or connecting knots for leader to tippet. So I DO use it for picky trout in still waters and sometimes for picky salmon (coho) with small flies in clear water.
The only drawback I can se with my new set up is because of the bead and leader I can't reel my lure as close to the tip as I'd like. Doubt I will be able to cast as far with the 3 foot leader hanging down, however I'm sure I'll be able to cast far enough to catch fish esp with the braid mainline :)
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Gotta agree with you blair. The more simple the set up the less that can go wrong. IMO a better alternative to a snap swivel is to buy some duo-locks and barrel swivels and connect the two making "snap swivels. I have had regular snap swivels open up on me. But never a duo-lock they are rock solid. But I say if it works for you and you like it then don't change :)
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When casting, I use no swivel, or a small duo lock if i'm lazy and know I will need to be changing it up often ( due to weather conditions, lock jaw, new water etc). I don't like the look or feel of even the smallest swivel.
Trolling, yes I use a ball bearing swivel or chain 2-3' up from the presented lure.
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Use of a ball bearing swivel , rather than a barrel swivel, can help to minimize line twist
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And if you can find small ball bearing swivels with a snap connector, Bob's your uncle!
Changing lures is a snap.
Cabelas always has them:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/SPRO-Ball-Bearing-Swivels-with-Coastlock-Snap-Black/738803.uts