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Author Topic: Modifying Rod Handle  (Read 1536 times)

BwiBwi

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Modifying Rod Handle
« on: December 01, 2006, 04:47:12 PM »

Is it okay to modify factory CP rods to casting rod?
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Fish Assassin

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2006, 04:58:53 PM »

Yes
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allwaysfishin

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2006, 10:19:49 AM »

you mean change the seat config from C/P to baitcast?? You will have to strip the entire rod. The guides will need to be removed and positioned on the opposite side of the blank from where they were. This will give the rods spine the correct bend under load.
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BwiBwi

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2006, 10:45:34 AM »

So I can not just strip off the reel seat, corks and just put on a baitcast seating?
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Gooey

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2006, 02:22:27 PM »

I have read a number of articles on spine positioning and I am pretty sure that for a float rod, having the spine straight up or straight down wont make a tone of difference.   Allwaysfishing, you build a lot of rods and your post seems to indicate otherwise so if you have some concrete facts on spine position, I'd love to hear them as I have 3 rods that I'll be wrapping soon.

Bwi Bwi, if you arent going to retie all the guides then all you need to do is remove the bottom 2 guide, strip the cork, remove the reel seat and then rebuild to fit your specs.  I would guess you would strip all the cork as you want the color of the new rings to match right down to the butt cap so you would be looking at all new cork.  I believe cork will run you about $2 an inch so thats $45-50 for the cork alone.  Is this a premium blank?  If its just a cheap blank, I cant see the investment in parts and labour being worth it.

In terms of removing guides, I found that a dremmel tool helps.  I put a bit in that is used for cutting tight corners and then slowly shave the epoxy down and thru the thread.  once I have a strip cleared then I use a knife to lift an edge on the remainijng epoxy and just peel it away...pretty simple.
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allwaysfishin

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2006, 02:47:38 PM »

the info passed on to me by those who showed me the ropes of rod building had this general advice to pass on to me. the spine on most rods should be in the up position thus baitcast guides go on the spine and C/P and mooching type rods the guides go under the spine. Sage does some funky stuff with thier fly rods, recommending from the factory that thier fly blanks be built with the guides 90 degrees to the right of the spine. Not sure if this applies to thier float rods. I am not saying that the info i have is the bible on this, BUT, my friend built a rod identical to one i have, sage 2106. He built his baitcaster with the guides opposite the spine, like a C/P, my baitcaster is built with the guides on the spine, his broke on the butt section after 3 outings, while battling a 8/9 lbs steelhead, mine has been landing fish to 20 lbs for the past 3 years and has never broken. We examined the blank and there were no marks indicating a previous condition that would have caused it to break.
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redside1

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2006, 04:30:39 PM »

I would have to agree with Gooey, unless the blank is something special like a G.Loomis or Sage, you may be better off just buying a new rod by the time you factor in cork, glue, reel seat, rewrapping the guides back on, etc. Most likely to cost $75.00 or so plus your time. You can easily find a decent casting rod on sale around xmas for similar money.
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Gooey

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2006, 06:07:30 PM »

I cant help but think it was a manufacturers defect and not the directing of the spine that caused your buddies 2106 to break.  From what I read, its more or less personal preference.

one article read:  For best rod performance, you should find the spine of your rod blank and locate your guides and reel seat either on or opposite the spine.

another:  If the guides and reel seat are not placed along the spine or directly opposite the spine, the rod will have a tendency to torque or twist to one side or the other when loaded

I
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allwaysfishin

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2006, 12:10:51 PM »

interesting, the break did show signs of twisting in the graphite. Myself, I will follow the on the spine for baitcasters and opposite the spine for spin, downrigger and c/p rods. Haven't had one break yet, nor have i seen any of the customs i have done for customers break yet either.
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BwiBwi

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Re: Modifying Rod Handle
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2006, 12:20:43 PM »

The one my friend has is a Talon VI 17' CP rod.  He's moving here from north.  I'll pass along the information you guys kindly suggested to him and let him decide.
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