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[FlyNut]

I've never done Chiro fishing on flyrod, and am a bit confused.

(a) I've been told you fish at drop-offs, and about max of 2 feet from the bottom.  Now if say the drop off is 20 feet deep, how would you set up the line+leader+tippet (sizes, and the line/leader type to use).

(b) another poster mentioned not to use floats, to get a better feel.  What about that?

(c) When use weighted chiros.

(b) intuitively it seems that one is better off using spinning equipment, and do away from all the diff. lines, etc.  Why can't you just tie a nice tippet to standard mono, add some weight, and get the chiro down. The presentation should be no different that using a flyrod, and much easier to manage and setup.

[FlyNut]

anyone?  inquiring minds want to know

[Trout Slayer]

But can it also be done with a spinning outfit? Certainly! You could work a vertical presentation from a float tube or boat but slllllllowly raising your rod tip out of the water and reeling in that raised line while lowering your tip again (kinda gives you a visual as to how fast you're retrieving).  Or if you're super diligent, sllllllowly reel in the line at the speed of a natural.  With a float/indicator presentation, you'd be limited as to how deep you could present your fly as casting will become quite difficult after the leader length from float exeeds rod tip to water clearance.  But you could definitely toss it out there, and just reel in the slack line and wait for the float/bobber to dive.  I dunno if that helps you at all FlyNut LOL

[Lew Chater]

30 or more years ago most choronomid fishing was done with a full sink line in deep water ( 20 to 40 ft) straight under the boat or with a floating line with about 15 ft leader and retrieved very very slowly in water under 15 or so ft. No indicator. Still like to do this now as you get a direct hit instead of watching the indicator and then striking. Most choronomid fishing is now done with an indicator as it holds the fly straight up and down and in  the correct strike zone and is very effective. Most people fishing without an indicator retrieve the fly way too fast. The old saying was to retrieve as slowly as you could and then double that time to retrieve.
Most of my fishing is in less than 12 ft of water and an indicator set over 9 ft ( the length of my rod ) makes landing a fish very difficult.
Bead head choronomid have two purposes. They get the fly down faster, particularly in deep water and they add some shape and shine to certain flies.
Most choronomid fishing is done with a fly line but I have seen fishers use a light mono line and an indicator and do OK. You could use small split shot to get your fly down to 20 ft or lower. Just keep the split about 4 ft up the line.
Give it a try, its better and easier on the fish and most times more effective than a worm or single egg.

[Trout Slayer]

It could be done on a spinning set-up.

For leaders and lengths it depends on what depths are being fished and what size of fish are in a lake. For example if I'm fishing a lake with 6-10lbs Trout I surely am not going to be using 2 lbs leader. Leaders are always 25-30% longer then the depth fishing. In the case you suggested being 20 feet deep, I would use a 10 foot give or take piece of 15lbs mono connected to the floating line, then add a pre length leader. Ie. A Rio 12 foot 5lbs(or whatever weight) then connect it to a 3-5 piece of flourocarbon tippet.

There is over a million types of leader set-ups, whatever is the easiest and strongest should be the choice.

Note: Never change brand names of leader material as some comapanies use different coatings and can be harmful to others causing them to weaken.

[FlyNut]

Thanks Slayer and Lew.  

I personally find fishing with floats boring, but I am sure more effective, since the Chiro is only moved with the small ripples on the water (which is more natural than pulling the line by hand).  In the float set up, I can see a spinning rod to be just as effective.

My question regarding leader size relates to fishing different depths.  If I stay within the 12 feet that Lew stays within, that is one thing, but if one moves to different depths in a lake, how one manages the leader length situation?  I am not keen on changing leaders all the times... unless the Chiro live in a certain depth range that I am not aware of.

Most of my fishing is in less than 12 ft of water and an indicator set over 9 ft ( the length of my rod ) makes landing a fish very difficult.

 I bought some of those "quick release" fly-fishing floats.  They should solve the problem you are mentioning.

Thank you both.  I am very much of a newbie, and maybe asking dump question, but am trying to learn from the masters.  I am hoping to put what I am learning here to good use this weekend on a lake

[Trout Slayer]

My question regarding leader size relates to fishing different depths.  If I stay within the 12 feet that Lew stays within, that is one thing, but if one moves to different depths in a lake, how one manages the leader length situation?  I am not keen on changing leaders all the times... unless the Chiro live in a certain depth range that I am not aware of.

Just cut off line at knots and add on more. What I do but if you dont have the access is I will find a spot on the lake with my depth sounder and search for the fish or appropriate underwater landscapes. Then rig up my leaders and determine how I will access them. Wish you the best of luck with this excellent hobby of Fly-Fishing.

[Floon]

The indicator/float is meant to keep your offering in the zone that the fish are feeding in. While at times this is just off bottom it's not always the case. The fish can be cruising at any depth for reasons of water temperature, oxygen content etc.
Also often time chironomids will change colours as they rise from the depths because they are filling with gasses. The chromie makes an excellent choice ribbed with various colours when fishing in the higher parts of the water column.

Cheers!

Flooney*

[Trout Slayer]

More info can be seen here:

http://www.fishingwithrod.com/yabbse/index.php?board=3;action=display;threadid=3609
 

[marmot]

I've fished interior lakes with chironomids alot, with many techniques, trolled even...I've always had the most success on the flyrod slowly retrieving them finger over finger, inching them in just a bit at a time.  My favorite way to fish them is a slow sinking fly on either a sink tip or floating line with a really long leader and super light tippet.  For me, anyways, its just so much more rewarding than trolling them...it feels like I'm more active in the whole experience.  As for spinning rods, again its just one more degree of seperation from me and the fly (since i cant feel the line in my hand).  I've never used a srtike indicator, i guess it just reminds me too much of a bobber.  No real reason i dont like bobbers, maybe just the cheap red and white plastic!  They look like little cartoon explosives or something.  I'm no purist though, if mono worked better for me beleive me I'd do that!!!

[Terry Bodman]

I've tried all kinds of floats (sorry-I mean strike indicators) and find that the corkie works great. Just thread the tippet through the corkie and stuff a toothpick in the hole to secure it at the proper length from the hook. The toothpick should be under the corkie (between the corkie and the hook) so your line doesn't get hung up when casting. This works well as long as the distance from the hook to the strike indicator is the length of your rod, or less. If greater, then landing the fish is a problem and you are in danger of breaking your rod. This system is also simple for adjusting the depth of your indicator.  

[The Gilly]

Keep the tip of the rod in or just out of the water.  You do not want any slack line.  When you see or feel the line straighten, lift your rod to the 45 degrees.  This is usually enough to set the hook.  Also, always pinch the barbs.  I've found that I catch more fish.  The theory is that the barb prevents the hook from penetrating past the barb on light "hits" (Chironomids).  If the barb is pinched the hook will continue to set right to the bend, resulting in more catches.  All you need to do is to keep tension an the line and you won't lose you fish.  Besides, it's easier on the fish for catch & release.

[kokish]

being a newbie to fly fishing, i started fishing chronies in the spring and what i found that works great for me is the stfike indicator by Phil Rowley, the line goes through a "peg and Float"' and when you get a hit
come loose and slides up and down the line, it alows you to change depths with adding or removing line

tight lines

B