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[norm_2]

I have a Big Chief smoker.  The heating element has 2 prongs sticking out the back of the smoker.  An electrical plug plugs onto those prongs.  The plastic around the plug where the left prong plugs into the plug starts to melt.  Over time, the plug does not work and the plastic has melted away exposing the metal parts.  I managed to find another plug at an appliance store.  Over time, the same thing happens to the left plug.

I have 2 questions:

1) Why is this happening and what can I do to stop it?  My guess is the prong is not sticking into the plug enough although both prongs stick out from the smoker the same length.  If I take the element out of the smoker, can I force the left prong to stick out longer?  I am concern about cracking the element.

2) The Big Chief websites ships to the US only but the cost is $17US.  The replacement I found in Vancouver was only $8.  Unfortunately, the shop cannot get another.  They tell me it is a R151M plug.  Where in Vancouver can I find a replacement plug?  I did find a plug but it did not have a notch, which ensures the plug is the right side up.  The plastic is pretty hard but can I somehow cut the plastic for the notch?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks for your help.

[Easywater]

It may be related to heat build up due to a weak extension cord - make sure you use a decent one.

I have a Big Chief at home and I think the outlet on the box accepts a PC power cord.

I'll take a look when I get home - I may have an old PC power supply that you can salvage the outlet from.

[norm_2]

Thanks Easywater.  You are correct that the plug is the same as that used for personal computers.  One difference is that there is a notch in the Big Chief but it appears to be ok as I was able to use a knife and cut a little piece out of a PC plug.  I don't have time to fully cut it now but I will try later.  Again thanks, I have several unused PC cords so I am ok.  I will post later on how I make out and if the smoker works.

[bobby b]

It is important that the cord be rated for a high amperage......20+ amps

PC Power cords are typically 3 conductor18AWG .....  I certainly would NOT notch out a computer power cord to make it fit. It may work for a while but it will melt.

The power cord you need should be at least 14 AWG  Better would be 12AWG  http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx

Any loose connection in the circuit will result in heat at that connection. There may be something loose or a inferior connection between the actual plug on the unit and the heating element. In which case , I would suggest that the smoker is defective.

If the cable is too small ( i.e.internal cord wire is  20AWG or 18AWG ) the whole cable would get warm and could melt or catch fire.... BEFORE your circuit breaker trips 

The cable should be similar to those used in Kettles etc.. (R151M plug)  Get good quality. The female end should NOT be a molded end. It should be able to be opened up to check the wire connections...

The best ( safest ) route even with a high amp rated cable would be to also use a GFI outlet

The fact that your previous cord melted to the point that metal parts became exposed shows how close you came to having a fire on your hands.

Dont second guess this stuff .... specs matter.

[bobby b]

Seriously tho'.... The Big Chief has something like a 4-5 amp heating element....  even at that, over time, heat will really build up at any bad connection.

Your issue makes me think... bad connection between the heating element  'prong' and the units power socket.

[blueback]

I had the exact same issue with my old Big Chief. A few years back I had to replace the element and chord (they were 17 yrs old!), so I replaced with a factory (Big Chief) element and chord. Eventually (years later) the same thing happened again; melted plug. I started to fool around with the connection and discovered that the chord and element prongs were not getting a solid connection when fed through the back of the smoker, causing over-heating. I jerry-rigged it well enough to get a final batch of salmon through, this past fall and then retired the smoker entirely, as other metal, non-aluminum parts had disintegrated too. After all this I believe there is a factory defect issue with the chord and element, and how they mount through the smoker body. That smoker lasted over 25 years, however!

[Baxta]

Partial threadjack here - I've got a Big Chief, and haven't been able to get it to power up when I plug it in to an outdoor receptacle, not in my old townhouse, not in my new house. I have to run my fattest extension cord from inside (which pretty much kills any smoking for 7 months of the year...) I confirmed that the receptacles work, but not for the smoker.

Anyone else have issues like this? I can't for the life of me figure it out...

[doja]

 At 3.75 amps max (neglecting line loss) conductor size is far less important than insulation temperature rating for the cord connection... A larger conductor will be a better heat sink and help draw away heat but like most heat producing devices,  cord ends have temp ratings which are very important. being theirs is very close to the element I wouldn't be surprised if it was higher rated.  Connections in stoves are in the 200 range I belive.  Not sure what a computer cord is rated for and being a simple resistive circuit the notch would not appear to be for proper polarity but temp rating....  Run the unit as is and after a while disconnect and check how hot the prongs get....  Considering the build up of plastic around the end it bears the most heat entrapment. Being connected to a heating element will conduct a lot of heat which is the thing to address.  Also not pushing the back against a wall will allow some more air flow that may help (I run my smoker AWAY from the house). I'd buy/use oem or equivalent rated cord end and possibly tweak the prongs for a better connection. Check reliable parts or mcguivers in South van for a cord as that's what they do.

Not sure about the outdoor plug problem though...  Should work fine but always use the shortest cord to minimize voltage drop... Even with a voltage drop it should still produce some heat.  Personally I don't like their power setup as it should just have a cord permanently installed to eliminate the connection issuie but I guess it won't package nicely... 

[norm_2]

Thank you bobby b and doja.  I knew there were electricians reading.  I looked at the smoker today and noticed the left element prong is a mm or 1.5 mm shorter than the right.  This must be the problem.  I also notice the left prong is darker than the right, which is shiny chrome.  I conclude, the left prong is not fully connecting with the left hole in the plug.  I will try to take the element out and bend it so the left element is longer.  A second remedy may be to shave the front of the second plug. Lastly, I may also put a little copper wire into the second plug hole.

To address bobby b's concern about a proper plug, the original plug came with the unit and has a screw in the very hard plastic.  The second plug was purchased at Reliable Parts and it also has a screw but the plastic is not as hard.  With some effort, I should be able to shave some of the plastic off the front face. I do remember the both cords being warm.  I will monitor this and it is a good idea for us to feel all non-smoker appliance cords for heat. 

Lastly, I will try McIvers.  If there are other possible Vancouver retailers, please let me know.  Thanks.

[doja]

Don't put copper in the plug as the only benefit as a poorer connection....  It will just open the plug up. I also would not shave anything down if the cord plugs all the way in.  A mm or 2 seems quite minor. Try twisting the male ends a bit as that seems to work well. Over time the metal may soften enough to bend back bit the twist holds up well bit always check for heat build up and burning when "altering things" run the unit and see if one prong is hotter than the other.. That's a good test. Cords will get warm and that's generally ok,  hot is not ok. Always check the temp rating of the cord 105c is the lowest and I'd personally prefer higher for the closeness of connection to element especially if a smaller conductor as that's what will fail and cause a fire.

Now....  Some sort of conductive gel (possible penitrox) may help bridge any gaps and improve the connection...  Just a thought and I'd look into it before doing it to assess risks.

It's possible the element/male end connection part is not sitting properly but not knowing what they look like and build I can't say for sure.  I'd suspect a overall poor design which can open several problems. I've repairs many things  and found old designs have been improved with better material or builds... That's another possibility.

[GordJ]

Don't put copper in the plug as the only benefit as a poorer connection....  It will just open the plug up. I also would not shave anything down if the cord plugs all the way in.  A mm or 2 seems quite minor. Try twisting the male ends a bit as that seems to work well. Over time the metal may soften enough to bend back bit the twist holds up well bit always check for heat build up and burning when "altering things" run the unit and see if one prong is hotter than the other.. That's a good test. Cords will get warm and that's generally ok,  hot is not ok. Always check the temp rating of the cord 105c is the lowest and I'd personally prefer higher for the closeness of connection to element especially if a smaller conductor as that's what will fail and cause a fire.

Now....  Some sort of conductive gel (possible penitrox) may help bridge any gaps and improve the connection...  Just a thought and I'd look into it before doing it to assess risks.

It's possible the element/male end connection part is not sitting properly but not knowing what they look like and build I can't say for sure.  I'd suspect a overall poor design which can open several problems. I've repairs many things  and found old designs have been improved with better material or builds... That's another possibility.

I agree that a piece of copper is a bad idea but for a different reason, the only points of contact on one side will be the very small contact point on the wire to plug side and on the other side of the wire to the terminal on the cord. A broad, looser contact patch would be better even though it isn't doing the job now.
And penetrox is a corrosion inhibitor and not a conductive gel. It won't "fill in the gaps" like it seems it should.
And if Norm is going to continue this repair without buying a new cord we should start a pool on when the fire dept. is called and/or how bad the damage is. $20 cord versus a $??? home? Not a great return on the money.

[doja]

But I belive the oem cord failed to begin with.... A new cord end won't solve poor engineering unless they improved the cord. I've seen cords from 2 different suppliers rated for about 150c.  1 failed  in EVERY install I did with after about 1-2 years but the other has never been a issuie... Mind blowing they still sell them after I showed the left overs...  Manufactures don't always get it right. 

Not 100% sure if penatrox is conductive or not... But I'd lean to it being g conductive for obvious reason as using a insulating compound on connection point a poor idea...  Cable guys apperabtly use die electric silicone compounds for this reason instead of anti corrosion compounds like penitrox.

I assume he wants to put the copper to fill the shortness issuie and not width but thinking now a proper shim would work if you could get it to attach to the male ends or fit in the female end. I still like hard wired as the cord is so close to the element and ran for extended times... But I'd use a new cord and try the twisting of male prongs to improve the connection then check for heat build up with a temp gun to assure it worked.

I guess if you really wanted a solid connection you could just bypass the plug and attach to the element wire with rated connections and eliminate the whole cord plug potentially weak point.

[GordJ]

But I belive the oem cord failed to begin with.... A new cord end won't solve poor engineering unless they improved the cord. I've seen cords from 2 different suppliers rated for about 150c.  1 failed  in EVERY install I did with after about 1-2 years but the other has never been a issuie... Mind blowing they still sell them after I showed the left overs...  Manufactures don't always get it right. 

Not 100% sure if penatrox is conductive or not... But I'd lean to it being g conductive for obvious reason as using a insulating compound on connection point a poor idea...  Cable guys apperabtly use die electric silicone compounds for this reason instead of anti corrosion compounds like penitrox.

I assume he wants to put the copper to fill the shortness issuie and not width but thinking now a proper shim would work if you could get it to attach to the male ends or fit in the female end. I still like hard wired as the cord is so close to the element and ran for extended times... But I'd use a new cord and try the twisting of male prongs to improve the connection then check for heat build up with a temp gun to assure it worked.

I guess if you really wanted a solid connection you could just bypass the plug and attach to the element wire with rated connections and eliminate the whole cord plug potentially weak point.

You are probably right, it's only been 40 years since I finished my electrical apprenticeship.

[greyghost]

You are probably right, it's only been 40 years since I finished my electrical apprenticeship.

Thanks GordJ! This post made my day! Cheers!