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Author Topic: Chironomids  (Read 26857 times)

Trout Slayer

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Chironomids
« on: June 24, 2004, 01:27:20 PM »

Been working on this one for a while and hope a few of you will learn a couple things. I have studied Chironomids for a couple years now and have learned how to fish them almost everytime with success. Throughout the year Chironomids are 40% of the trouts diet intake. Best way to cast out the fly and have a good presentation is in a single anchored Pontoon, holding in a belly boat or double anchored in a car topper. Remember, fisherman always think the farther out the line the more fish you will get. False, fish are sometimes hitting the indicator 5 feet from the boat.

Temperatures
One of the most important things while Chironomiding is the temperature of the water and how the hatches will react to it. Generally between 40-50 degrees fahrenheit is the magic number and lot's of hatches will occur give or take. Getting into 65/68 area it is a bit to hot and  fisherman should start to consider switching over to different patterns of flies.

Location In Lakes To Fish
Ideally when fishing Chironomids the fisherman will want to fish 25 feet and shallower in depth from drop off's up to shoals on a muddy bottom. This is not always the case as people have got them in 40/50/60 feet of water. Chironomids commonly hatch in the muddy bottoms and as they hatch they raise to the surface of the water. As they do so the trout will slurp them out of the mud and on their journey up. Sunny days fishing deeper is good and on overcast anywhere in the water column can be deadly.

Emergence
This is the times that Chironomids will hatch during the fishing season:
April   May  June  July   August   September    October
End<--------------->Early                    End<-------->End
They are in 2 stages before hatching at the surface: larvae and pupa. Once at the surface they resemble their cousin the mosquito. As the Pupa venture through the water column it will trap air gases in it's underbody and fisherman will start using patterns called "Chromies" which resemble trapped gases and the shiny silver effect they give off. A square meter in the bottom of a lake can contain 20,000 Chironomids.

Colours of the Hatch
Colours commonly coming off lakes are Lime Green, Green (many shades)Brown, Black, Red, Maroon and the Chromie Silver. Also heard of Orange, Grey and Tan. They will be in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Size 10-22's are most common with 14 and 16's being most productive.

Ways To Fish
1. With an indicator: Chironomid fishing with an indicator is without a doubt the most successful way to present the fly. Fisherman will attach a small foam, corkie looking object in a bright colour to their leader at the desired distance between at which they will want their fly to be presented. This is done on a full floating fly line. Most common zone to have a pupa emering with an indicator is 1-2 feet off the bottom. When setting the indicator for the middle of the water zone, Chromies are often used as the Pupa will have gases trapped in itself as it nears the surface to hatch. Through out the time the fly has been casted out let it sink and every 15 seconds give the line a quick twitch to create the natural occuring action underwater. Line should also stay straight so it is easier for a hook set when it gets pulled under. Phil Rowley has come up with a strike indicator called the "Quick Release" kind of expensive that's why I have designed my own but it helps for when fishing deep depths and having to land the fish as it splits the indicator so the fisherman can bring the leader in more and have an easy landing.

Keeping The Line Straight:


2."Naked": Chironomid fishing without an indicator is referred to as fishing "naked" the fisherman will cast out his or her line to the lake and slowly retrieve the line in. When fishing a full sink line the fisherman should cast it out the depth of the lake; no more, no less and wait a minute till the line is completely parallel from the tip of the rod down to the bottom of the lake. Then they should do a slow hand twist retrieve to the surface as it is imitating the Chironomid as it makes it's way through the water column. Can be done with a sink tip fly line or full sink.

A Loop knot that connects the leader to the fly is good, with fishing on a day with the water active and movement it will imitate the movement the Chironomid will give as it naturally hatches.

Both of the noted methods are to have the rod tip always pointed towards the water or in the water so for a strike the fisherman can simply raise his or her rod and give a good hook set.

Fly-Lines
When Chironomid fishing a very good fly-line is needed. One that does not hold memory or curl when casted out.

1. Floating: Make sure get one in a colour that is visible in the water, casts long distances, doesnt bunch up or "curl" and will stay floating without dipping in the water. One recommendation is Scientific Anglers and their series called "Mastery" that have come up with a very good high quality of line called "Headstart" It is special for a shortened head and shorter front taper. Its a weight forward full floating and perfect for beginners and occasional anglers.

2. Sink Tip: Same goes for the floating line. Make sure that is doesnt bunch up or curl. Depending on what type of water being fished in a good recommendation is the Scientific Anglers Mastery Series "Wet Tip" Has a sink rate of 1.5-6.25 ips depending on which type purchased. Has a low stiffness and comes in two colours. Another is the Scientific Anglers Mastery Series "Stillwater" It's an invisible sub-surface slow sinking line. Good for shallower water and wary fish that may get spooked when they see it. Sink rate is 1.25-2.0 ips.

3. Full Sink: Same general characteristics as the other lines but will want a fast sinking line to get in the zone faster and to present the fly without waiting very long. A good recommendation is the Scientific Anglers Mastery Series Uniform Sink Plus. Has a sinking rate of 1.5-6 ips. Comes in the colour blue and casts rather nicely.

Leaders
Leaders should be 25-30% longer then the depth fishing in a lake. Lines and leaders should also not be mixed with brand names as often companies will use different coating in their lines and can weaken others. Mono tapered is great, but in more finicky lakes where the fish observe the flies more, fluorocarbon is a good choice.

How Do I Tell Which Colours Are Hatching?
This is a frequently asked question and a good way of finding out is by cruising the surface and shallows of a lake with an aquarium net picking up the Pupas on the surface. Another great way to do so is by using a Throat Pump with a caught fish and seeing what it contains in it's stomach. Be very careful when using a throat pump though. No fish generally under 14 inches should be pumped and the fish is to be treated gentle while doing so. Commonly the insects in the stomach that get pumped would have been eaten within the last 5-10 minutes and are still alive.

Directions:
1. Gently place the bulb into the throat of the fish depressed.
2. Slowly withdrawl it and it will suction out the food contents.
3. The fish can then be released to fight another day.

Beads
Beads are used on Chironomids to add extra weight so the fly gets to the desired depth faster and also give a sense of a head. Colours are crucial with most common being gold, copper, bronze, nickle, clear(glass), black and white.

I will make up a few step by step tying instructions for people who want them.



« Last Edit: July 01, 2004, 09:30:41 PM by tHe TrOuT sLaYeR »
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d_w

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2004, 02:24:58 PM »

 WOW!!!! Awesome read!!!
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FLYallAROUND

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2004, 03:32:47 PM »

excellent work! very impressive, what a wealth of knowledge. keep up the good work
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otto

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2004, 03:59:33 PM »

excellent tutorial Trout Slayer!!!! thank you  8)
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Trout Slayer

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2004, 01:38:46 PM »

Glad you guys liked it. 8)
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otto

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2004, 03:19:55 PM »

after all that info, i'm heading out to buy some new flys.........Chironomids!!!! ;D 8)
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FlyNut

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2004, 07:27:37 PM »

Great job, trout slayer (I hope you release some, too ;D).

I am a bit confused about long leaders and a strike indicator.  How to I reel the line in if there is a strike indicator between the long leader and the rod.  I think you have talked about it, but I did not quite get it.

Thanks.
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Trout Slayer

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #7 on: June 25, 2004, 11:21:38 PM »

I am a bit confused about long leaders and a strike indicator.  How to I reel the line in if there is a strike indicator between the long leader and the rod.  I think you have talked about it, but I did not quite get it.
Goto your local shop and ask for or look for Strike Indicators called "Quick Release" by FlyAngler or Fly-Craft Angling ones developed by Phil Rowley.

They come in 2 colours (flourescent orange and yellow) and contain a small black peg to hold your line. Here is a great video showing how they work off of Phil Rowleys site:
http://www.flycraftangling.com
Sign up to his site and click on Quick Release Indicators, will show step by step.

The Advantages:
1. Strike indicator will split when a strike has happened.
2. Colours stand out nice in water.
3. Easy to adjust rather then the tooth-pick models.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2004, 11:23:18 PM by tHe TrOuT sLaYeR »
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FlyNut

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2004, 11:42:27 PM »

Trout slayer.  Thanks for the link to the quick release indicator.  The concept is so simple, once you see it on video 8)

The site itself has a lot of great articles.  It is going to keep me busy.


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Floon

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2004, 09:56:46 PM »

Good write up TS! Great stuff. As for the slip indicators I'll point out one thing that is a bit of a drawback. If the fish breaks you off you lose the indicator too.  :(
One other thing I might add to this great wealth of info would be to fish with a partner and use different depths and patterns until the secret is unlocked. ;) Saves time if you have a strategy. Of course as soon as the secret reveals itself the fish will probably be onto another colour, depth, size....... :'(

Ah, but that's why we call it fishing and not catching, eh?? ;D

Thanks for the read Aaron! And good pics as well. :)

Flooney*
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FLYallAROUND

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2004, 12:17:46 AM »

floonster,
to prevent from loosing the indicator, tie on a very tiny swivel, size 14 i think they are about 3 feet from the hook just incase the fish does break off, you dont loose your indicator as well. just make sure that the swivel isnt too small or else the indicator will just go write through.
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Floon

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2004, 04:33:30 PM »

Good idea but this would be considered "external weight" in fly fish only bodies of water. ;)
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FlyNut

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2004, 04:44:09 PM »

Good idea but this would be considered "external weight" in fly fish only bodies of water. ;)

I haven't checked, but obviously the shiny peace floats.  The question is if the black top peace also floats.  If it does float, then one could put some shiny nail polish on it to show in the water, and then go retrieve it (can work at least a percentage of the time).
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Trout Slayer

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2004, 06:30:04 PM »

Thank you for all the positive feedback.

Doc, it is really just a personal opinion for success with or without a bead on the fly. IMHO I believe fishing with the beads is 1:3 more fish for success. But this is just my opinion and I also fish Chironomids with beads most of the time but if it was 50/50 for fishing time of each type of fly it could be different.

P.S. Sorry about the late reply I was up in the Cariboo defining my name. ;D
« Last Edit: June 30, 2004, 06:30:35 PM by tHe TrOuT sLaYeR »
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Chrome Mykiss

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Re:Chironomids
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2004, 07:36:06 PM »

As a guy who spends almost 75% of my interior lake fishing time using chironomids, which includes glass worms and blooworms, this is an excellent article of the basics of modern chironomid fishing  :). I fish almost exclusively with bead headed chironomids, because I want the fly to remain in the right depth. I even place split shot on my leader just above the tippet knot. I fish with an indicator almost 100% of the time when chironomid fishing, even in 30 feet of water. My leaders consist of the first 1/3 being monofilament, usually 6lb maxima ultragreen and the last 2/3 fluorocarbon. I particularily like the new Airflo Sight Free flurocarbon, only broke off 1 fish on the stuff this year, which only happened due to a fish running into the anchor line of another boat  ;).

Floonster, in fly fishing only waters, not only is external weight illegal, but also external floating devices, such as strike indicators :P.

Carlo
« Last Edit: July 01, 2004, 07:40:06 PM by Chrome Mykiss »
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