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Author Topic: Float modification  (Read 11166 times)

kalex60

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #15 on: December 20, 2013, 01:02:30 AM »

The first light floats are custom and exclusively made by dne for the shop they still are slip floats like the original dnes
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SteelheadAdict

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2013, 07:49:13 AM »

Sweet im gona have to go out there and take a look at thēm
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Suther

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #17 on: December 20, 2013, 11:07:07 AM »

all u need to do is bull the plastic tube from from top or bottom and it slides easy.

u get a beeter drift because your line is held the extra 2inches off the water thus this helping u to have a better drag free drift

I dont mean sliding, as in moving the float. I mean allowing the float to slide up and down the line between your bobber stoppers. If you need a deep float depth, say 8' deep or more (lake fishing, for instance) I find it much easier to cast if you have a stopper because you can wind the float/weight/ect closer to your rod tip, because the stopper will go through the guides. Trying to cast 8 feet of line under a float, on a 7 foot spinning rod for some rainbow trout in a lake is asking for trouble IMO.
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SteelheadAdict

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #18 on: December 20, 2013, 12:20:19 PM »

this isnt ment for trout fishing lake's its ment for steelhead and salmon casting 8ft with a 10 or 11 foot rod isnt supper hard
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Spawn Sack

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #19 on: December 21, 2013, 02:49:04 PM »

Not shuer about u guys but i modify my floats. I buy Foam dne floats normalcy 25 gram i take 2 bbq sticks in each end and cut them about  2inches in lenght. Next i use some plastic tubing from the hobby shop  with holds the line on the bbq stick. These work really well for float fishing jigs u get a longer and a better drag free drift i also find u can see alot better on what the float is doing in the currrent dp any of u guys do anything like this?

I do the exact same thing, learned it from Rod Toth at a jig tying seminar a couple years back. Well, it do it just slightly different than you. I take a DNE float, and pop the plastic tube right out of it with my BBQ skewer. Throw tube in the garbage. I then take the skewer, wet it (suppoused to with glue I use), and apply a little Gorilla Glue to it. You could use any glue I just happen to have this and like it. I'll do a number of floats up and let the glue cure overnight. Next day I'll snip the skewer off both ends about 1/2 inch or so from the float. Then I'll lightly sand the end of the skewer (not necessary).

To rig up I slide 2 pieces of R/C fuel tubing on my line, about 1/4 inch each. Then just stick the ends of the skewers into the float and you're done!

Things I like about this method:
-Can quickly/easily swap out floats. If I add more weight, tie on a jig, etc I want a float with more buoyancy.
-The float slides on the line better (when adjusting depth) than bobber stops, wrap floats, straight through floats held with toothpick, etc.
-The float does not slip/move like bobber stops etc seem to do eventually.

Only downsides:
-Floats needs to be "made" in advance.
-If you somehow snap your mainline and lose the float and whole rig, it is a bit more farting around to rig up a new float. However I can my tube bits all pre-cut so it's no big deal for me.

I have been using this float method for years and it works well for me.

I don't see how this method would give you any better of a drift though than other methods. The line going down the side of the float compared to straight through the middle doesn't make a damn bit of difference trust me :) I like the shape of DNE floats and find they don't bob around as much as cheap foam dink floats. At the end of the day I don't think the color, type, brand etc of float matters at all. Just fish what you like. One of the best float fishermen I know, much better than myself, uses the cheapest wrap dink floats available, many he found on the river with half the paint chipped off, etc.
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First Light Fishing & Tackle

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #20 on: December 21, 2013, 04:11:24 PM »

Hi everyone, long time diver and first time posting. These new float was redesign from DNE float. The top section was extended ( 1 inch ) to  help prevent your main line touch the water, the drift will be much easier specially with those long cast. The extended section also painted to make the float top much easier to see. We have 25g and 30g available in white or green body.

cheers, Merry Christmas and Happy New year everyone.

Steven
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HOOK

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #21 on: December 21, 2013, 08:59:33 PM »

I do the exact same thing, learned it from Rod Toth at a jig tying seminar a couple years back. Well, it do it just slightly different than you. I take a DNE float, and pop the plastic tube right out of it with my BBQ skewer. Throw tube in the garbage. I then take the skewer, wet it (suppoused to with glue I use), and apply a little Gorilla Glue to it. You could use any glue I just happen to have this and like it. I'll do a number of floats up and let the glue cure overnight. Next day I'll snip the skewer off both ends about 1/2 inch or so from the float. Then I'll lightly sand the end of the skewer (not necessary).

To rig up I slide 2 pieces of R/C fuel tubing on my line, about 1/4 inch each. Then just stick the ends of the skewers into the float and you're done!

Things I like about this method:
-Can quickly/easily swap out floats. If I add more weight, tie on a jig, etc I want a float with more buoyancy.
-The float slides on the line better (when adjusting depth) than bobber stops, wrap floats, straight through floats held with toothpick, etc.
-The float does not slip/move like bobber stops etc seem to do eventually.

Only downsides:
-Floats needs to be "made" in advance.
-If you somehow snap your mainline and lose the float and whole rig, it is a bit more farting around to rig up a new float. However I can my tube bits all pre-cut so it's no big deal for me.

I have been using this float method for years and it works well for me.

I don't see how this method would give you any better of a drift though than other methods. The line going down the side of the float compared to straight through the middle doesn't make a damn bit of difference trust me :) I like the shape of DNE floats and find they don't bob around as much as cheap foam dink floats. At the end of the day I don't think the color, type, brand etc of float matters at all. Just fish what you like. One of the best float fishermen I know, much better than myself, uses the cheapest wrap dink floats available, many he found on the river with half the paint chipped off, etc.

Why would you toss the tube away ?

Next time try sliding it onto your 3/16" (smallest) mandrel for tying tube flies. You may find it fits and you have been tossing perfectly good tube fly tubing away !!  :o

Of course I am assuming you have the stuff to tie tube flies. If not then save the tubing and I will grab it once you have a decent little pile happening, same goes for anyone else that just tosses it away  :D
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Spawn Sack

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #22 on: December 22, 2013, 08:23:34 AM »

To be honest I don't know how to tie tube flys ::) I'm intrigued by them and I'm sure down the road I'll learn to tie them at an open tying night at Fred's or whatever. Thanks for the tip though HOOK from now on I'll save the tubes as who knows, they could come in useful down the road.

I only toss the tube as when trying to insert the bamboo skewer it often pops out, so I just figured what the heck, I'll just stick the whole skewer down the float and out the other side.

IMO the idea of having a longer stick poking out the top (like the F/L modified floats) to apparently get the line more off the water for a better drag free drift or whatever is pretty silly. But hey, if you like this is idea then by all means use them :) IMO the long piece sticking out the top is just going to get caught on something in your vest or whatever and snap off, and I don't think it's going to make much of a difference as far as keeping your line off the water goes. I normally fish a 10"6 or 11"6 rod for float fishing and find as long as I keep my rod tip up and tension on the line I have no issues achieving a drag free drift with this float set up.

At the end of the day it's just a float and I say as long as you like the way it's rigged up then fish what you like. Another guy I know only fishes the clear drift floats, even in high/colored water, simply because he likes them.
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Ian Forbes

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #23 on: December 22, 2013, 08:47:56 AM »

Why mess around? Just use a man's size float...  A Missouri strike indicator.



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scouterjames

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Re: Float modification
« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2014, 10:11:48 AM »

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