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Author Topic: Casting rod - guide inserts  (Read 1286 times)

Banny

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Casting rod - guide inserts
« on: October 30, 2011, 03:56:50 PM »

Hi folks,

Looking to build a gear rod (11'3" MHX 10-20lb casting rod) in the near future and I am looking for advice regarding guide insert choice.  To date I have only built fly rods so the insert choice was inconsequential. 

Are SiC inserts really worth the significantly higher price compared to Hialoy inserts (Pac Bay guides)?  The price difference is about $40 for the rod I will be building.

Thanks for the input,

Jordan
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Gooey

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2011, 10:07:41 AM »

You're right, the price difference is questionable.  I use Hialoy and fish braid over them and they stand up just fine.  As well, SIC is much more brittle so if you are hard on your rods, the added durability of Hialoy is good. 

One recommnedation, go with single foot guides on the top half of your rod, it will reduce weight and make for a faster rod.
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typhoon

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2011, 10:19:52 AM »

Hey Jordan,
I am building a spey to casting conversion right now using an 11'6" Batson RX6 blank.
Mine is a bit odd because I am wrapping it spiral (or acid) style, so I am using SiC for the transition guides from 0 degrees to 180 degrees, then hialloy for the running guides. I chose a SiC tip top.
If I weren't doing a spiral wrap I would probably go with Hialloy guides even if running braid. The bass guys running braid report no "grooving" with hialloy or alconite guides and they make a lot of casts. Plus I can always replace a guide if it goes bad.
Good luck with the build.
Rick
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Banny

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2011, 12:50:34 PM »

Hey Rick,

Curious why you are building on a spey blank rather than the MHX casting blanks which come in some nice configurations for steelhead/salmon casting rods?
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typhoon

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2011, 02:10:36 PM »

I wanted a 4 piece for convenience.
Also Mudhole is not building the blank I want. The 11'3" is too heavy for my liking and the longer rods are too light.
My Spey blank has an ERN of 10.2 and AA of 68 which should be perfect for steelhead on smaller systems. It is too light for chinook or the Thompson but that just means I will have to build another rod  ::)
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Banny

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2011, 02:20:32 PM »

Gotcha  :)  I have been fishing a 10-20 rated Fenwick HMX for the past 3 years and like the ability to land a spring or two on the vedder when the opportunity arises so I figured the 11'3 10-20 would suit me well.
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Valley Custom Rods

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2011, 10:34:04 PM »

Hey Jordan,
I am building a spey to casting conversion right now using an 11'6" Batson RX6 blank.
Mine is a bit odd because I am wrapping it spiral (or acid) style, so I am using SiC for the transition guides from 0 degrees to 180 degrees, then hialloy for the running guides. I chose a SiC tip top.
If I weren't doing a spiral wrap I would probably go with Hialloy guides even if running braid. The bass guys running braid report no "grooving" with hialloy or alconite guides and they make a lot of casts. Plus I can always replace a guide if it goes bad.
Good luck with the build.
Rick

Hello all,
This is x 2 for me great advise Rick. It's very rare I  see guides replaced due to grooving and the cost to replace is very little when the time comes. By the way how is your build coming Rick ?? Would like to see a few pics if you get time.
Regards,
Mark
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typhoon

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Re: Casting rod - guide inserts
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2011, 08:50:40 AM »

Hello all,
This is x 2 for me great advise Rick. It's very rare I  see guides replaced due to grooving and the cost to replace is very little when the time comes. By the way how is your build coming Rick ?? Would like to see a few pics if you get time.
Regards,
Mark
I was too busy fishing to complete it  ;D  Wraps are done and CP'd. Grips are turned but not yet reamed. I should be able to finish it over then next few weeks just in time for steelhead.
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