Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => The Fish Kitchen => Topic started by: IronNoggin on February 14, 2020, 12:48:31 PM
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Bit of a lengthy and picky process, but the end result is well worth the effort IMHO!
Partially thaw said Tuna: - it is easier to loin when it is still fairly stiff deep inside:
(https://i.imgur.com/K5GfegE.jpg)
Rip the hide, and yes, Rum Required for this entire process!
(https://i.imgur.com/5E2pubp.jpg)
Loin & remove brown meat:
(https://i.imgur.com/RoyFfnL.jpg)
Mix well 4 parts demerara sugar with 3 parts coarse salt (I like Sea Salt for this) and layer around 1/2 inch deep in bottom of tote. Toss in loins:
(https://i.imgur.com/fCL9Zul.jpg)
Smother loins with mix:
(https://i.imgur.com/9P4c7qn.jpg)
Cold enough outside this next step likely wasn't necessary, but I tossed bags of ice on each tote after they were stuffed into the big stainless smoker (no room for such in our fridge):
(https://i.imgur.com/nEZh4MX.jpg)
Shut the doors and let sit overnight.
This thread will be continued as the process develops...
Cheers
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Took overnight and then some to get to this desirable stage.
The dry brine is "dry" no more, and it is easy to see just how much moisture it has sucked out of the loins.
The loins themselves have changed both in color and consistency.
(https://i.imgur.com/pLQDd7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gaXJvQm.jpg)
Next up: the Wet Brine process...
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Awesome, keep the updates coming! :D
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Wet Brine:
3 gallons (Canadian thank you very much) of water
4 cups Sea Salt
5 cups demerara sugar
2.5 cups real maple syrup
1 bag peppercorns
A decent handful of chopped dill.
Should mix this a fair bit before you need. it so it can settle.
Test run by dropping a fresh raw egg into the mix:
(https://i.imgur.com/cPDxg5n.jpg)
She floats, all good- Carry on...
If not, a smidgen more salt, whip into a frenzy, and re-try until it does.
Toss the loins in - no need to rinse.
(https://i.imgur.com/NgEhISr.jpg)
Now about as fascinating as watching paint dry.
Stir occasionally through the eve.
Let percolate.
Tomorrow desalination, onto prepped grills, and begin the glaze process (if all goes well...)
Cheers,
Nog
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They came out of the wet brine earlier today.
Big changes in both color and consistency! They swelled back up quite a bit!
(https://i.imgur.com/cyxGtb9.jpg)
So, onto one of the most fussy and critical steps - Desalination.
I prefer to have a LOT of water surrounding the loins at this point, and to keep a slow but steady flow of fresh water into their domain:
(https://i.imgur.com/7XUvPj0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/otzt7R0.jpg)
If you take your drain cap off your cooler, you can replace it with a large soft drink cap.
Drill a small hole in the center of that so you have flow both top and bottom:
(https://i.imgur.com/0ZuDQEI.jpg)
Having too much Tuna is never an issue if you know how to deal with it.
And I don't see a lot of point in repeating the process when one good run will do...
(https://i.imgur.com/weexhHo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u27AnIZ.jpg)
The ones on the uphill side will freshen just a tad sooner than those on the downhill.
Move the latter into the bigger tank while you pat dry the first lot and get ready for the grills.
By the time you've accomplished that, the other should be ready.
Move the loins around in the fresh water every 10 minutes or so, and keep a damn careful eye on them!
Too little, the salt will be overbearing.
Too much, and they become non-recoverable mush!!
I do the double taste test - nip a little off a couple differing loins (should slice very thinly with a sharp knife).
Taste. You will know it when you realize what you are looking for...
This lot is now off to the grills, glaze and fans.
Back atcha when able...
Cheers,
Nog
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After about and hour and a half, the loins began to look a little washed out (don't worry - this is normal and will soon be rectified).
(https://i.imgur.com/YSBOVl9.jpg)
Thin Slice & Taste Test said: Good To Go!
(https://i.imgur.com/3DXiQdK.jpg)]
Funny thing about that picture - left it up on the phone while I transferred the rest of the fish to totes, then turned, saw this, and actually tried to pick it up and eat it. LOL Yummy already!
Then, onto the racks to dry:
(https://i.imgur.com/M8PfwVZ.jpg)
These dried very quickly - as in an hour after hitting the racks with NO fans, they were already crying for the Glaze!
(https://i.imgur.com/CzsHLfg.jpg)
Took advantage of that hour to prep the glaze itself. nearly 1/2 Maple Syrup, a shot of Rum Extract and top off with Black Bacardi:
(https://i.imgur.com/3oT8eac.jpg)
And apply:
(https://i.imgur.com/uhZ3to5.jpg)
It sucked the first application up within 45 minutes, so got hit again.
Already you can see a color transformation as they darken from the glaze.
Normally I would have hit the fans at this point.
But with dark rapidly buzzarding in, temps into the minuses overnight, and the way these were already sucking up the brine I decided to leave them overnight without the fans. My Buddy hit them with the glaze again at midnight and said "Looking Good".
Today they get rolled around, glazed again, and finished drying with the fans on...
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As expected, the loins sucked up the glaze some, leaving just enough on the surface to give them that classic Glassy finish.
Dry to the touch, they are ready for the smoker...
(https://i.imgur.com/XrxPU9i.jpg)
Yet another fine color / consistency change - beginning to look downright appealing!
(https://i.imgur.com/Rv7Zb10.jpg)
Load 'em up:
(https://i.imgur.com/pWRCgwJ.jpg)
And pour the cold smoke to them:
(https://i.imgur.com/BH54xNk.jpg)
Ambient air temperature is three degrees. No heat transfer into the smoker. Excellent conditions...
See ya in a few hours...
Nog
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Initial Taste Test...
(https://i.imgur.com/h0IAQjo.jpg)
Horrible... NOT!!! ;D
Cheers,
Nog
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How long did you smoke it? Also, how long does it keep when you cold smoke like that? I assume you are freezing most of it.
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Smoked for 3.5 hours, then let sit as the equipment clears itself of smoke (around another 1/2 hour).
It is completely cured well before the smoke hits it. All that does is add a hunt of color and a little taste.
It would last at least a couple weeks in the fridge if it ever made that far... It never does around here.
The majority is indeed vacuum sealed and frozen for future reference.
Cheers,
Nog
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That's a Wrap!
(https://i.imgur.com/NNoNuXe.jpg)
Cheers,
Nog
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Looks amazing! Thanks for sharing your photos and expertise ;D
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I was fortunate enough to give this a try and it is amazing.
A very buttery texture with a nice light smoke.
Nog is the King when it comes to anything food. :)
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Awesome stuff and love the finished product look.
What's your ball park estimate for desalination time?
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What's your ball park estimate for desalination time?
Was about 2 hours this go.
Cheers,
Nog
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First run of 2021 in the smoker!
(https://i.imgur.com/2t1RoSb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BH54xNk.jpg)
Cheers!
Nog
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Did you catch those Nog?
I was given some whole frozen Tuna a few years back and filleting them was UGLY.
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Did you catch those Nog?
I was given some whole frozen Tuna a few years back and filleting them was UGLY.
Some came from a Buddy who caught his own (the whole fillets).
The balance I bought from another local buddy who commercial fishes them.
He always gives me a fine price.
Filleting them is actually easy once you get the hang of it.
Done hundreds.
Trick is to not thaw them completely before doing so...
Sure smells damn good around my neighborhood today!! LOL
Cheers,
Nog
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Some came from a Buddy who caught his own (the whole fillets).
The balance I bought from another local buddy who commercial fishes them.
He always gives me a fine price.
Filleting them is actually easy once you get the hang of it.
Done hundreds.
Trick is to not thaw them completely before doing so...
Sure smells damn good around my neighborhood today!! LOL
Cheers,
Nog
Ya, I think we had them too frozen. Ended up using a meat saw with a ton of waste. My garage looked like a kill room and it certainly stunk.
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Taste Test Time:
(https://i.imgur.com/RzxPVGq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5pH3jqQ.jpg)
Houston, we have another WINNER!! (http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/images/smilies/sHa_shakeshout.gif)
Pulling the lot off the smoke now.
Sits overnight, then vacuum sealed (or eaten).
Already better than half a loin gonzo! LOL!
Cheers,
Nog
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And on the eighth day, he said That's a Wrap for Round One on the Tuna:
(https://i.imgur.com/HNxxhxO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Xr3EbF.jpg)
Round Two starts tomorrow...
Don't see a whole lot of point to rehashing the process with this next run. But if anyone wants to try this one and needs advice, by all means Feel Free!
Cheers,
Nog
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Posted some of this here already but thought I'd run the both versions of the recipe in this thread. Will make it easier to find next winter...
There are basically two versions, one which incorporates sugar in the wet brine, and one which doesn't.
I'll post them both for any who wish to try.
That said, after the last experiment, I am leaning towards the recipe that does include it...
Cold Smoked Tuna
Slowly thaw the desired amount of whole tuna loins. Once thawed, make up a DRY Brine of 2 parts Demerara Sugar to 1 part non-iodine (coarse or pickling) Salt. Put enough of this in a plastic container to cover the bottom of it.
Place the tuna loins on top of that. And cover well with the balance of the brine mix.
Now let sit for at least 24 hours in the fridge (If you don't have room in your fridge, keep cool by whatever means). After that period the tuna will have "leaked" a fair amount of juice (moisture) and the brine will pretty much dissolve.
At this point the tuna will have darkened substantially in response to the dry brining process.
It is not necessary to rinse the loins, as they now go onto the next stage - the Wet Brine process. Yes, that is correct, two brines as apposed to a single one that we are all most familiar with. I chose to go this route due to the advice of some VERY serious lox producers who insisted this was the "preferred" method to ensure a great quality product.
Salt Saturated Wet Brine
Run enough cold water into your tub to cover the tuna. Add in a LOT of salt (in this case a little better than half a bag went into the brine). You want a "super saturated" solution, meaning that the brine can absorb no further salt, and there is salt settled out on the bottom of the container. Drop a raw egg into the brine to test. If it floats, good to go. If not add another 1/2 cup of salt and try again.
Then add the tuna loins. Let sit in the fridge or a cool place for another 24 hour minimum period.
Following that the loins will lighten considerably.
Remove from the brine, and prepare for the next step
Alternative Salt & Sugar Wet Brine
Run sufficient water into your brine tub to well cover the tuna. Add in Demerara Sugar at 2 parts to one part Coarse Salt, then add just a hint more salt. Conduct the egg test to ensure saturation levels. Toss in the loins & keep cold while it sits for the next 24 hours.
Remove from brine and ready for Freshening.
Freshening or Desalination Process
This next step is CRITICAL and very finicky!
This is termed "Freshening" in which the salt is slowly removed from the tuna.
Place the loins in another container and run cold water into that, allowing the water to run over the sides carrying away the salt with it:
You MUST keep a VERY sharp eye on this process! If you don't allow sufficient time for the desalination to occur, the tuna will be overly salty, and no-one will want to consume it! On the other hand should you leave the loins in for too long, they will turn into a wet soggy mess and be ruined - non-recoverable error!
Check the tuna over the freshening period. What you want to see is the ability to slice the loin VERY thinly, and little to no salt taste.
Once done to your satisfaction, drain the water and ready for the next stage.
Drying & Glazing
The Glaze is a mix of full bodied Black Rum, maple syrup and brown (Demerara again) sugar. I used quite a large amount of rum, as I like the taste it instills. For this run the ratios were 3 Parts Rum to 1 part Maple Syrup. Then I added in 1/2 bag of the sugar. The sugar will settle out, so to combat that and mix it well, heat (GENTLY) just until the sugar dissolves. DO NOT OVERHEAT!
Alternatively you can go with a straight mix of 50% Black Rum & 50% Maple Syrup. Easier, just not quite as complex a flavor.
WELL oil one of your smoking grills, and place the tuna loins on that. It is best to ensure air flow both above and below the surface to the grill. You can now apply the glaze either by brushing on, or as I did with a squirter bottle.
This is a somewhat messy process, so make sure you cover the surrounding area with some type of protection. The glaze is very sticky!
Set up a fan so the air rushes over all sides of the lions:
Over the course of the next few hours the tuna will absorb the glaze. Add more glaze as it does so. You can choose to keep the surface of the loins moist through this, or allow the glaze to soak in and become dry to the touch between applications. Doesn't appear to make much difference except that keeping them moist will allow for better penetration. The drying process will vary, in this case they ran under the fan (with a lot of glaze sprayed on continuously) for over 24 hours (at 3 - 4 degrees C). At the end of that time allow a "patina" to form with the glaze. You must stop adding the glaze to induce this, and it will likely take several hours or so before it dries enough to form the patina
Smoking
The final step of course is the actual smoking. Regardless of how you do it, the internal temperature of your smoker should NEVER reach more than 70 degrees F - and cooler is indeed better.
Again, the temperature is CRITICAL! Do not overheat the loins, or they will dry out and be ruined!
I generally smoke them for around 5 hours, then pull a loin to test. Slice thinly and try the second or third slice in. That will tell you if you need more smoke or not. My general rule has become ~ 6 hours in the Cold Smoke all told to finish.
Remove from the smoker and allow to sit for a couple hours.
Then either vacuum seal or ENJOY!
Cheers,
Nog
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i was mesmerized by the photos.
can you comment a bit about the smoker....did you buy it? make it? where when how lol ?
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can you comment a bit about the smoker....did you buy it? make it? where when how lol ?
That is my latest custom build. Based on a 1964 Hospital Food Warmer.
400 pounds of stainless steel (the real stuff) and the tightest packed insulation I've ever come across.
Good thing it is on wheels!
Nog
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That is my latest custom build. Based on a 1964 Hospital Food Warmer.
400 pounds of stainless steel (the real stuff) and the tightest packed insulation I've ever come across.
Good thing it is on wheels!
Nog
Wow. I'll call you Doctor Nog.
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appreciate the effort you put into sharing your techniques, cheers. trying to eat a phone image eh? perhaps a tad less rum along the way next time?
surely not!