Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => Fly Fishing Cafe => Topic started by: corgi on March 01, 2014, 10:28:18 PM
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Just got my first fly rod and reel in the 6 weight class and plan to use it in the coming weeks/months...
Just so I don't bombard this forum (yet), my first questions is about the recommended connection from fly line to leader/tippet?
I have the nail knot tool, but curious if I should be trying to build a the loop-to-loop connection, or just stick with a simple nail knot?
Then, do you purchase fly specific tippets or can i just use fluorocarbon leader after that?
Thx!
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--you could use all of those but each has a purpose and situation where they are most effective.
--you will need to give more information on the type of area you intend to fish and for more specific advice on what your best options are.
--fluoro carbon is an option for clear water, spookie fish and if you want the leader to sink.
--in many situations mono is as good or a better choice than fluoro.
--for casting a longer leader you can taper it down from thick to thin diameter.
--taper leader can be purchase then replace end tippet as you use it up changing the fly
--I use loop to loop connections with replaceable sink tips of different sink rates and lengths depending on where I am fishing.
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Loop to loop is a good way to attach flyline to leader.
If your flyline doesn't have a loop already you can nail knot on a couple inches of 20# mono and put a double surgeons loop or the like in the end.
The easiest then is to buy tapered leaders. You can build your own with various lengths and test of mono or floro but for starting off it's likely easier to just buy a pack of leaders.
Then blood knot your tippet to your leader and change as needed.
Tippet (and leader) can be either floro or mono depending on the application Just remember floro has a tendency to sink where mono floats, so use accordingly.
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I tie a nail not connecting my fly lines to a butt section about a foot long made of a stiffer (higher pound test) mono. At the end of the butt section I add a loop so I can loop to loop connect leaders. Makes it easy to change leader length or strength without having to re-tie the connection between the mono and the fly line.
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I usually used a nail-less nail knot (similar to the nail knot, just without the need for a nail or tube) to connect the butt section of heavier ultra green (12lb) and used various lengths of 8-5 lb ultragreen or fluorocarbon depending on the conditions and necessities, for the leader and tippet. However, a common danger with the nail or nail-less nail knot, is the possibility of the plastic coating of the flyline stripping off on a larger fish or snag. To avoid such an unfortunate occurrence, I now use an albright knot to connect the mono to the flyline. It will never fail before the tippet breaks (as it should). The down side is there is more tag to clip (resulting in a shortening of the flyline) each time you need to retie it (which thankfully is not often).
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As already mentioned, it depends on the fishing you are doing. Lake fishing is much different than stream fishing, and even when fishing rivers it depends on the species and what you need.
If I am just trolling a lake then I use a loop at the end of my fly line (made from the braided line core) and just tie a piece of tippet material to the loop using a Clinch knot. I use the same method when dredging the bottom of rivers for salmon or steelhead. But, if I am casting dry flies on a lake or stream then I want a smooth, line to leader connection and a tapered leader with additional tippets.
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As already mentioned, it depends on the fishing you are doing. Lake fishing is much different than stream fishing, and even when fishing rivers it depends on the species and what you need.
If I am just trolling a lake then I use a loop at the end of my fly line (made from the braided line core) and just tie a piece of tippet material to the loop using a Clinch knot. I use the same method when dredging the bottom of rivers for salmon or steelhead. But, if I am casting dry flies on a lake or stream then I want a smooth, line to leader connection and a tapered leader with additional tippets.
All great ideas Ian. The only thing that I do different is to tie a very tiny swivel between my leader and tippet. In this way the little extra weight takes your fly down just below the surface film and also I am not having to retie my leader when I want to attach a new tippet. Also this method does not shorten your leader each time that you retie. I rarely ever Dry Fly fish. Some of the guys that I know use what is called a tippet ring which is just like a very small split ring but without the split. I prefer the swivel.
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--if you want to use a swivel and dry fly fish try the invisaswivel... it is made out of fluorocarbon but no significant weight to it.
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I've also used the small swivels or the tiny metal rings, Sandy, but believe it or not, they are not legal on flyfishing only regulated waters.