Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => Fly Fishing Cafe => Topic started by: 180gall on January 08, 2013, 06:15:55 PM
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Hey guys
New to spey and I wondering what weight tip
Or tips for the vedde?
Thanks
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Depends on the run you are fishing and the conditions. Colder the water the deeper u want to get. U can use anything from a type 3 to the heaviest tips u can buy. I use a tip that will get down but not snagging bottom all the time. Generally I use a type 6 or 8 and change the flies instead. Not really into chucking heavier tips.
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Thanks for the reply
I have a 6. I'll have to stop by my lts and pick up a 8 and maybe a 10.
Thanks again
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here are my 3 mostly used tips for winter steel on the Vedder
T-8 - i use this mostly in late March through until the end of May when the water temps warm up and fish will move farther to attack something
T-11 - my mostly used tip, gets down but not on the bottom in almost every run in the Vedder with slight angle adjustments to your cast
T-14 - I will use this if i cant get down enough in deep runs or with faster water where i need a quicker sink
go into M&Y and have them make you up 12-15 foot tips out of their BULK stock for each sink rate. have them do a different coloured thread for each so you can tell them apart later on. 12 foot tips will be slightly easier to cast especially on shorter spey rods, if your slinging a single hander the 15' tips will actually cast smoother and give you a few more "grains" of weight to shoot the line further. I mostly use 15' tips for swinging but i do also have 10' & 12' tips of each of my heavier tips as well.
you can also utilize an intermediate shooting head or full sink line for swinging flies in the colder months. this will aid in slowing your swing down which slows the fly down which is how winter fish like it. I have an intermediate shooting head from Scientific Anglers and my favourite place to use it is in riffle water because it allows me to cut through the surface water (current is fastest at surface) and slow the swing down. this is usually the type of water fly guys ignore !!
good luck out there ;D
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have them do a different coloured thread for each.
you obviously havent seen our new airflo welding machine? ;)
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I saw it when Adrienne posted it on her FB months ago but no i havent seen it in person. I did the loops on mine at home so i could color code them myself ;)
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The bulk tip are awesome..just like the factory welded loops and cheaper too
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As said, it depends on the run, water level, speed, etc.
I have 12ft lengths of T8, T11 and T14 that I use behind a skagit. I used t11 the most often and will change between weighted and unweighted flys if I can, as that's a lot quicker then swaping tips.
In the spring when the water is warmer I like and airflo rage head with various sink polyleaders.
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Yep I also change my flies instead I my tip. Also the angle of my casts
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I only have a 15' T 11 for my single handed (lost my T 8 last March on a hook up mid river just before hooking a 12 pound Buck on my intermediate sink tip on a lower river run, and still have not replaced it). I find the T 11 gets down on most runs I fish it (4-7 feet deep walking speed (evidenced by the ticking on the rocks near the end of the drift and start of the swing). I will change the angle of cast slightly as needed (more of a down stream angle for shallower runs) and I also switch between weighted and unweighted flies (I also tie a few flies of the same pattern where I use heavier eyes on one and smaller eyes on another, and none on yet another, so I then can fish the same pattern. On the shallower runs and riffles (under 3 feet) I use my clear intermediate tip.
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nice info on this thread guys. thank you. :)
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I use to go crazy on what tip use. Rack everyone's brain about it. Then I started catching a few fish and soon realized it don't matter that much. Just put on a sink tip t8 t11 or t14 and fish it hard and don't waste time changing it all the time. Like others have said use a weighted fly or adjust your cast angle.
I find t11 around 12 feet sets my anchor well and cast a mile with a whole bunny at the end.
Cover water and hang on!!!
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I use to go crazy on what tip use. Rack everyone's brain about it. Then I started catching a few fish and soon realized it don't matter that much. Just put on a sink tip t8 t11 or t14 and fish it hard and don't waste time changing it all the time. Like others have said use a weighted fly or adjust your cast angle.
I find t11 around 12 feet sets my anchor well and cast a mile with a whole bunny at the end.
Cover water and hang on!!!
I second 12 ft of t11, that's what I am most comfortable with and primarily use. Like other said, if need be adjust the angle.
However depending on the conditions I might use a t8 chunk for the lower.
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Like others here I tie flies in a variety of weights and switch my flies instead of my tips, my go to tip for the Vedder is my 15ft type 8. I can fish most situations with this tip and different fly weights/ cast angles.
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Thanks for all the great info guys.
I'm going to pick up a t-11 and a t-14 probably
12.5'. I'll give them a go on sun. Thanks again.
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I might consider going for 2 pieces of t-11. For my fishing style there are not many places to use t-14 on the vedder. The places that you could use it is better fished with a float imho.
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thats a valid point Roseph but dont limit yourself to only fishing what is considered "good fly water"
take two sections of river both the same depth, lets say 4-5feet. Now make one run with that nice walking speed water and the other one with small riffles along the surface. T-11 should get you down perfectly in the first run (within 2feet of bottom) but you will most likely stay alot higher in the water column in the second run due to the faster surface speed, this will also make your fly travel faster which isnt ideal. Stick a T14 on which will sink through that surface tension quicker allowing you to slow your fly down getting it deeper and presenting it properly.
For me i rather tie all my flies the same so that im not dragging around buttloads of fly boxes. it only takes a minute to swap out tips and in that time allows the fish to "settle" giving you a better chance at them because they wont be as spooked if they have settled themselves back into a comfy holding spot.
If you tie all your flies unweighted you can buy these small lead BULLET weights and put them on your leader, tie your fly on and the weight will stay at your fly allowing it to sink you can even use several (if you can cast it). This is a technique explained on Skagitmaster 2 and was quite the controversy when the DVD first came out.
HOOK - fishes all sorts of water for steel not just the primo stuff. want a wicked battle ? hook one in shallow riffle water and HANG ON !!!
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Also consider the Jim Teeny fly lines (http://www.jimteeny.com/indexMain.html?content=catalog&page=jtCatalog/catalog/catIntro.html). Used them both here and Scotland/England - excellent lines. On Vedder the T200 & T300 are more than enough - depending on water flow/height and what you are presenting (small fly or a large heavy Cone head tube, etc!).
Look em up - they cast like rockets too! ;D
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that website is kind of stupid because it didnt link directly to the line from your link. I just tested it thinking you linked wrongly but same result
what he is talking about is the T series of lines. I clicked Spey and a couple others before finding it
thanks, its great to have so many options
HOOK - one of these lines might match my switch rod nicely :)
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Yeah - not the greatest of websites to navigate ::) ..... but their T-Lines are very good and for me tried and tested.
PS. Lead grained sink tips will never be classed as Spey lines no matter how daft the website!
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take two sections of river both the same depth, lets say 4-5feet. Now make one run with that nice walking speed water and the other one with small riffles along the surface. T-11 should get you down perfectly in the first run (within 2feet of bottom) but you will most likely stay alot higher in the water column in the second run due to the faster surface speed, this will also make your fly travel faster which isnt ideal. Stick a T14 on which will sink through that surface tension quicker allowing you to slow your fly down getting it deeper and presenting it properly.
Interesting stuff HOOK. I actually fish more atypical water than typical fly water on the Vedder, as I think most good anglers do to find fish on this system. On friday I think I lost 6 flies trying to fish a side channel with a 13' rod. Not much fun but I find it hard to ignore any water that has even a slight chance of holding a fish.
But when it comes to faster, riffley water I admit I normally switch to a type 6 or even type 3 in some cases, usually with a fly that sinks pretty fast on it's own. Mind you, not much of the riffley water I'm fishing is 4ft deep. I'm talking more like 2-3 feet deep with a some rocks sticking out above the surface. I'll give your t-14 in the faster stuff a try this week as I am not hooking up anyway (haven't even seen a fish hooked yet) lol.
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I wouldnt try using T14 in 2-3feet of water :o thats just crazy talk LoL
i leave the really shallow water fishing for around March when the fish get fiesty, swinging flies over the heads and having them go airborne as they attempt grabbing the fly is a panic. I have yet to even hook one in water under 3feet deep because they always miss it. I might even try skating big dries over this type of water this spring ;)
another thing i cant remember if i had mentioned is to buy an Intermediate Shooting head, SA makes a really good one (i own one) and use this is slightly faster or riffley surface water because it sinks only a few inches under the surface breaking the tension of the faster current at the waters surface and aids in helping you slow the drift. Now on a side note i have tried this line in slower water and while it works great i find it slows it down enough that you end up changing tips up alot more as the run shallows and deepens along its length towards the tailout.
Roseph - your doing exactly what a good steelie fisherman should do regardless of having the spey rod. I can sometimes been seen flipping just my sink tip into small seams and basically drift fishing the fly. only downside to doing this is the crappy grab the fish give you instead of the heart pounding pulse intensifying reel screaming grab they give when fishing a swung fly ;D
good luck out there boys !!
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once again great info on this thread. I have had good success swinging flies for bull tout. I have only tried 2x for steelhead and this past sunday being one of them. when i was swinging for bull trout a at the very end of the swing i would start to strip slowly and almost always that is when the strike would take place. is it he same with steelhead? i have never hooked one on the fly. or is the mid swing the main strike time?what part of the swing do strikes typically happen?
thanks.
:)
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It can happen anywhere during the swing with steelhead..I personally find with summer runs I let the fly swim right to shore as they will chase down a fly not that a winter steelhead won't but more often with summers. At the end of the swing I always give a couple slow rod lifts ..guess that's sort of a line strip. I do say for me most takes have been that magical 45 degree angle of the swing
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10' of T14 most of the time.... Or for my switch custom cut type 6 + 8
I don't fish super heavy flies, so sink the tip more...
Jon
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9-10ft of T-11 is all you need. 12ft is a little long in some of the more bouldery runs.
I really like the 7.5ft T-11 and 2.5ft float Rio MOW tip...
You don't need T-14, although it works. T-11 has a similar sink rate.
Here is a great video that de-bunks all the myths and BUll**** behind tips on the end of skagit lines:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0xSHvAJKqg
Bottom line, you can get away with all sorts of wacky tips on the end of a skagit head....
Just pick a tip that casts well for you and gets you down without hanging up.
The steelhead are looking up! Better be too light than too heavy.
Cheers,
Max.
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once again great info on this thread. I have had good success swinging flies for bull tout. I have only tried 2x for steelhead and this past sunday being one of them. when i was swinging for bull trout a at the very end of the swing i would start to strip slowly and almost always that is when the strike would take place. is it he same with steelhead? i have never hooked one on the fly. or is the mid swing the main strike time?what part of the swing do strikes typically happen?
thanks.
:)
Every fish is soo different!! Some take like bulltrout on the dingle dangle, some hit the fly like a freight train almost as soon as it sets into the swing, and pretty much everywhere in between. Its pretty typical with winter runs for the line just to slowly come tight, or start tracking back out into the river.
I do know what you mean about the bulls hitting it on the strip. Most of my bulltrout by catch when swinging for steelhead happens on the dingle. But even bull trout can surprise you. Hope I could help.