Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Zackattack on October 11, 2011, 08:55:36 PM
-
Hi guys! I bought a mint 6500 off of a guy on here for my first casting reel but he didnt have the manual.
I read all the posts on here then gave it a try all weekend on the river. Got the hand of it pretty fast (still birdsnested twice pretty bad)
But would love to have the manual so I can figure out how to use the braking system most effectively (or at all for that matter)
Being a used reel I'm assuming that all the manual brakes have been taken off by the previous owners as the spool seams super loose but I can still cast fine assuming I'm thumbing the spool.
Abu doesnt have a manual on there website either which is strange just a schemetic.. just it would be nice to learn what that "on" slider does on my reel hahaha :P
-
I have one but I won't be giving it up. Google is your friend and I would double check the Abu website
-
I have one but I won't be giving it up. Google is your friend and I would double check the Abu website
that was helpful. yes like I posted before I already checked the website. they provide schematics but not online manuals.
its always nice to have a physical manual you can refer to on the river as well.
Mikes Reel Repairs has schematics. http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/
thanks fisher but im looking for the instruction manual. just wanna learn correct ways to setup centrifugal brakes etc
-
For the Abu garcia reel, you have to set the tension, for lack of a better word, on the reel. If you go on you tube you will see what I mean. Basically every time you change the lure or float set up you will be using, you have to adjust the tension of the reel. Hold the rod and reel horizontally away from you and with the setup you will be using. Hit the line release button and let the line hit the floor. Adjust the round side tension control, till the line goes out at a nice constant rate. Not too fast and not too slow. As you get more used to using a baitcaster you will want less tension control on the reel. Hope this helps you out.
-
For the Abu garcia reel, you have to set the tension, for lack of a better word, on the reel. If you go on you tube you will see what I mean. Basically every time you change the lure or float set up you will be using, you have to adjust the tension of the reel. Hold the rod and reel horizontally away from you and with the setup you will be using. Hit the line release button and let the line hit the floor. Adjust the round side tension control, till the line goes out at a nice constant rate. Not too fast and not too slow. As you get more used to using a baitcaster you will want less tension control on the reel. Hope this helps you out.
Ya thanks denny! Actually I did that exact same thing before I set out.. played around with different tension for different sized weights etc etc.
Got the hang of it just I was reading online and people were talking about the centrifugal braking system inside basically magnets you can adjust.. so I was just curious if the previous owner had disabled them or not. Also wanted to know what the "on" switch did.. does that activate brake system?
Thanks again!
-
That "on switch" is for the clicker I believe. When I choose to use my baitcaster I always leave it off. You already have drag and can thumb the spoon on your own
-
sweet thnx for the help guys
-
Are you sure your reel has the centrifugal braking system. Not all reels have them. Either Mike's Reel Repair, or Express Reel service should be able to tell you if your style of reel has that system in it.
-
haha ya apparrently it has a "6 pin centrifugal brake system "
it sounds like you can adjust these pins individually or by pairs which is recommended. dont feel like tinkering with my new reel tho haha :P
at least i have the clicker issue resolved and know what thats for now
-
hey man whats your emaill address i might have one kicking around and if you want ill scan it and emial it you
-
hey man whats your emaill address i might have one kicking around and if you want ill scan it and emial it you
Thanks Nox that would be awesome if you did that for me! thnx a tonne
zack_mcleod@hotmail.com
-
email sent let me know if you get it my emails being acting up lately
-
You should unscrew the cover in the spindle brake and take a look at the disc inside.
There should be a copper disc that gets pushed against the end of your spindle when you tighten it down.
The pressure from this disc is what causes the spindle to spin more or less.
Many times, this disc gets crushed but can easily be replaced.
Alternatively, you can just flip the disc around to get a few more miles out of it.
The braking system is just a series of tiny magnets that spin around inside a metal ring.
If the spool spins too fast, the magnets are pushed out closer to the ring and that slows the spool down.
I have taken a number of reels apart and looked at the insides.
I have a cool small Shimano baitcaster that has a real magnetic adjustment.
There is a dial on the opposite side from the spindle adjustment that moves the magnets a tiny bit closer or further away and it really helps with over spinning.
-
email sent let me know if you get it my emails being acting up lately
I didn't get it actually. If you don't mind trying again that would be great! Thanks again!
You should unscrew the cover in the spindle brake and take a look at the disc inside.
There should be a copper disc that gets pushed against the end of your spindle when you tighten it down.
The pressure from this disc is what causes the spindle to spin more or less.
Many times, this disc gets crushed but can easily be replaced.
Alternatively, you can just flip the disc around to get a few more miles out of it.
The braking system is just a series of tiny magnets that spin around inside a metal ring.
If the spool spins too fast, the magnets are pushed out closer to the ring and that slows the spool down.
I have taken a number of reels apart and looked at the insides.
I have a cool small Shimano baitcaster that has a real magnetic adjustment.
There is a dial on the opposite side from the spindle adjustment that moves the magnets a tiny bit closer or further away and it really helps with over spinning.
I'll open it up and have a look! Thanks!
-
haha ya apparrently it has a "6 pin centrifugal brake system "
it sounds like you can adjust these pins individually or by pairs which is recommended. dont feel like tinkering with my new reel tho haha :P
at least i have the clicker issue resolved and know what thats for now
The centrifugal brake system on an abu uses tiny pieces of hollow plastic that slide on the pins which are located at the end of the spool. As the spool spins, the pieces of plastic slide out towards the outer edge of the spool. This has the effect of slowing the spool down the faster it spins (sort of like a figure skater slowing their spin by extending their arms out). With Abus, you can vary the strength of this force by removing some of the pieces. Taking this "brake weights" out will result in longer casts but I don't recommend removing all of them because you will have birdsnesting problems. Remember, birdsnests occur when the spool spins faster than the ability of the line to be pulled out. If something hinders your line from being pulled out, i.e. wind, snagging a branch etc.. the result will be a birdsnest unless you can slow or stop the spool from spinning. Both the Tension knob and the brake weights have the effect of slowing down or controlling the spin of the spool. Adjust the tension knob based on the amount of weight you are using (as someone already suggested) and adjust your braking weights according to the conditions or your casting style. If you need to whip your cast out, you should have as many brake weights in as you can. If you can lob your casts, you can get away with fewer brake weights.
Abus make or used to make the Mag-X reels. I have the 5600 C5 Mag X that I use as a backup to my calcuttas. These reels use magnets rather than centrifugal brake weights to control the spin of the spool. A dial on the side of the reel adjusts the proximity of the magnets to the spool, the closer the magnets are to the spool, the slower it will spin. The advantage with this system is that you can adjust on the fly with mor precision.
Please note that it takes practice to cast baitcastesr well and that even seasoned anglers will birdsnest once in a while.
-
Taking this "brake weights" out will result in longer casts but I don't recommend removing all of them because you will have birdsnesting problems.
thanks stratocaster your explanation was terrific. the main reason I was asking about the braking system was because my reel is 'used' and I was curious to find out if the previous owner had removed those brakes. so now I know how to check! after all i thought if he had removed these brakes it might make it more difficult for me to learn on but ya i realize these rods do a have a learning curve and im improving everyday
-
Hi, Folks....A couple of operating notes. The regular 6500C3 is a non-magnetic piece. the 6-puck system is made up of little plastic "flyweights" that are centrifugally controlled. The factory sends the reel out with 2/6 functioning. you can make them all non-functioning, or engage all 6, or less, if you like.
As regards the tension control/casting knob under the star: Inside the cap is a little black "frisbee" with molded clips that clasp the spool axle. The axle then moves up and down against the spool bearing under the clutch above, to slow it down, thereby reducing
spool speed.
Many sports back off the end cap to such a degree, that the spool "clacks" back and forth in the frame, causing zero cast control.
To adjust: tighten the end cap _all the way_ to the bottom of the boss. Engage cast mode, by pushing down the button.
Attempt to 'thumb' the spool, and note it is really frozen. Now, slooooolwy loosen the end cap, until the spool actually goes into freespool mode. Push spool laterally side to side in the frame. It should barely move. You are now in the zone.
Another way to do this is: fully loosen the end cap, and sloooooolwy tighten, until you feel a slight "whump"....this different sensation is the act of engagement between those litttle clips on the frisbee, into the dents in the axle. It's doing much the same thing as the first part of this, except you dont' have to go all the way to the bottom of the threads.
Good fishing and fixing. KD.