Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: AJTorres9589 on March 17, 2021, 11:40:09 PM
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Hello all,
I’ve recently purchased an Achilles tender and want to kit it out. The general use will be for taking on extended camping/fishing trips. Also trips to the local lakes. Needs to be equipped for Trolling and anchoring. Seeking advice in a couple places:
- would a 4.5HP engine be what I’m looking for?
- what kind of anchoring system would I be looking for?
- what fish finder would be recommended for this boat?
- worth it to get the wooden floor? Necessary?
- anything to consider with the trolling motor? I’m inclined to get a minn Kota
- do any of you guys use an electric air pump? Can’t find much online about them...
- any tricks or tips about using/operating/pumping/general would be greatly appreciated
Sorry I know it’s a real bombardment haha. Very excited and a lot running through my head.
Thanks so much!
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I had a similar inflatable for fishing. If you're going to load it up i would get biggest motor you can which i believe is 8hp for that boat. I trolled lake's with a Minn Kota 40 maximizer which worked very well for me. As for anchoring i just used carry handles as a tie off point. I would maybe put a light rubber floor matt in to protect your floor. Biggest thing is don't overinflate your boat and use a good cleaner like aerospace 303.
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I had a similar inflatable for fishing. If you're going to load it up i would get biggest motor you can which i believe is 8hp for that boat. I trolled lake's with a Minn Kota 40 maximizer which worked very well for me. As for anchoring i just used carry handles as a tie off point. I would maybe put a light rubber floor matt in to protect your floor. Biggest thing is don't overinflate your boat and use a good cleaner like aerospace 303.
great advice! Any portable type fish finder should do unless you are trolling for salmon in tidewater;
https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/fish-finders/piranhamax/piranhamax-4-pt (https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/fish-finders/piranhamax/piranhamax-4-pt)
For anchoring some people strap down a small home made wooden bow plate to attach an anchor lock. You should be able to screw a roller lock to the transom.
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Welcome to the Achilles army.
I used to have a 2.5hp engine which went fast enough but now I just use my Minn Kota electric (with Maximizer).
I use this for the front and it works awesome. Other options are the glue on Scotty mount or to build a plywood platform that ties into the D rings.
I have the glue on Scotty on my 8 foot frameless pontoon and it holds fine but I don't know that I'd trust it on a bigger boat.
(https://gallery.flybc.ca/galleries/members/Typhoon/boat/anchor_mount2.jpg)
I use a Humminbird tri-beam unit but these are discontinued. Humminbird or Garmin Stryker are more or less equivalent.
I prefer my air floor with gym floor foam covered in carpeting. You need a high pressure pump like this to make the air floor usable. One port is high volume, the other is high pressure and will reach the required 9psi.
(https://www.inlandliferafts.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/c687aa7517cf01e65c009f6943c2b1e9/b/r/bravo-foot-pump.jpg)
I use a cheap C-Tire high volume, low pressure air pump to start but it only reaches maybe 1 psi.
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Thanks for all the advice! Really helps a lot.
Hey typhoon,
Is that mount plate fixed? Or do you take it on and off for inflation/deflation? Where did you get it?
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Thanks for all the advice! Really helps a lot.
Hey typhoon,
Is that mount plate fixed? Or do you take it on and off for inflation/deflation? Where did you get it?
It is a removable aluminum plate with 3 pads glued to the boat. The pads look like this, and they have embedded nuts:
(https://www.weaverindustries.com/images/products/Standoffs/RP301Gray.jpg)
https://www.weaverindustries.com/index.cfm/product/94/rubber-pad-for-stand-off-brackets.htm
I remove the bolts and plate before deflating. It can be installed before or after inflation.
I can't find the kit online (plates+3 pads) but the pads look like they are available so you could build your own plate.
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I am on my second inflatable and can also help.
- I would get the biggest motor you can afford and the boat can take.
-find a way to anchor. The wind is one of your biggest enemies with inflatables. You get blown around.
-I don't thing you need a special fish finder
-I have always used a inflatable roll up model. Its great because the boat folds up and you can get into harder 4x4 lakes.
-minkota maximizer for a trolling motor
- for a pump. I was about to spend 200 on amazon for a good one but bought this and it works great https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/woods-blast-hv-marine-air-pump-0762929p.html#srp
Have fun and take care of it. I was just out this week with mine and its alot of fun.
Hello all,
I’ve recently purchased an Achilles tender and want to kit it out. The general use will be for taking on extended camping/fishing trips. Also trips to the local lakes. Needs to be equipped for Trolling and anchoring. Seeking advice in a couple places:
- would a 4.5HP engine be what I’m looking for?
- what kind of anchoring system would I be looking for?
- what fish finder would be recommended for this boat?
- worth it to get the wooden floor? Necessary?
- anything to consider with the trolling motor? I’m inclined to get a minn Kota
- do any of you guys use an electric air pump? Can’t find much online about them...
- any tricks or tips about using/operating/pumping/general would be greatly appreciated
Sorry I know it’s a real bombardment haha. Very excited and a lot running through my head.
Thanks so much!
-
I think I have the exact same boat. Motor size is dependent on what water you want to run, and how much floor space you want to sacrifice (anything over 6 hp will need an external fuel tank). I've ran a 7.5 hp and 2.5 hp motor on mine. The 7.5 was good for running the lower Fraser and bigger lakes, but was a bit much for the inflatable floor boat. And the fuel tank took up too much floor space. I'm very happy with the 2.5 hp motor for most of my fly-fishing on small to medium sized lakes. The minn kota electric works fine for small lakes too, you just wont get anywhere in a real hurry. If you want to troll with your gas outboard, get a small one. As a general rule, The smaller it is, the slower you can troll.
I have a dual anchor setup, the rear mount is drilled through the transom, the front mount was glued onto the bow by professionals (Polaris inflatables i believe). For a fishfinder, I just run the standard clamp on humminbird 110, and clamp it to the transom. If you lay it out right, you can attach a fishfinder, outboard, and scotty mount (for the anchor roller) to the transom.
I ditched the factory seats, and I use milk crates with homemade seatpad lids instead. It frees up valuable floor space, (you can store lots in them) and when fishing you can just push them out of the way. They also double as storage for my anchors, ropes, and rod holders during transport.
I did make a plywood floor to go over the air floor, and it works well if you plan on doing much standing in the boat. It makes a huge difference in stability.
Another thing I did was take the rubber oar keepers off of my old inflatable boat, and glue them to the top of the pontoon toward the back of the boat. They function as my net holder and keep it nicely out of the way.
If you want to attempt to glue things to the boat by yourself, gorilla glue seems to work well so long as you do it neatly and carefully. I'll try to find a picture of my boat all set up...
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https://flic.kr/ps/3W9fTo
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I think I have the exact same boat. Motor size is dependent on what water you want to run, and how much floor space you want to sacrifice (anything over 6 hp will need an external fuel tank). I've ran a 7.5 hp and 2.5 hp motor on mine. The 7.5 was good for running the lower Fraser and bigger lakes, but was a bit much for the inflatable floor boat. And the fuel tank took up too much floor space. I'm very happy with the 2.5 hp motor for most of my fly-fishing on small to medium sized lakes. The minn kota electric works fine for small lakes too, you just wont get anywhere in a real hurry. If you want to troll with your gas outboard, get a small one. As a general rule, The smaller it is, the slower you can troll.
I have a dual anchor setup, the rear mount is drilled through the transom, the front mount was glued onto the bow by professionals (Polaris inflatables i believe). For a fishfinder, I just run the standard clamp on humminbird 110, and clamp it to the transom. If you lay it out right, you can attach a fishfinder, outboard, and scotty mount (for the anchor roller) to the transom.
I ditched the factory seats, and I use milk crates with homemade seatpad lids instead. It frees up valuable floor space, (you can store lots in them) and when fishing you can just push them out of the way. They also double as storage for my anchors, ropes, and rod holders during transport.
I did make a plywood floor to go over the air floor, and it works well if you plan on doing much standing in the boat. It makes a huge difference in stability.
Another thing I did was take the rubber oar keepers off of my old inflatable boat, and glue them to the top of the pontoon toward the back of the boat. They function as my net holder and keep it nicely out of the way.
If you want to attempt to glue things to the boat by yourself, gorilla glue seems to work well so long as you do it neatly and carefully. I'll try to find a picture of my boat all set up...
I haven't heard of Gorilla Glue used for mounts or patches. I'd be afraid that it doesn't stay pliable.
Options are:
This is the good stuff.
https://www.nrs.com/product/1904/clifton-hypalon-adhesive-fa-4844
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-adhesive-sealant-5200-white-3-oz-0790215p.0790215.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsm6DbHX2cIfdRDBiaOt9Ka_a-BiYTQ0xLwN6PPE0zYmeqxY3Po4ufoaAgSZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=612
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I haven't heard of Gorilla Glue used for mounts or patches. I'd be afraid that it doesn't stay pliable.
Options are:
This is the good stuff.
https://www.nrs.com/product/1904/clifton-hypalon-adhesive-fa-4844
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-adhesive-sealant-5200-white-3-oz-0790215p.0790215.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsm6DbHX2cIfdRDBiaOt9Ka_a-BiYTQ0xLwN6PPE0zYmeqxY3Po4ufoaAgSZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=612
I would definitely spring for the good stuff if it's in the budget. But... my friend glued his scotty mount on that holds his 10 lb anchor, it's been there for close to 10 years, and I repaired my air floor with it 5 years ago and it's still holding 100%.
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Thanks for so many great responses guys. Here’s a little update on where I’m at:
-I’ve taken typhoons recommendation and went with the weaver aluminum mount for the hull mounted Scotty anchor lock. It’s pretty pricy, but it’s peace of mind knowing that thing isn’t going anywhere. I’ll be drilling the mount for the second anchor lock into the transom (unless that’s not advised?) currently using 12 pound finned cannonballs for anchors. Couldn’t find any pyramids which I would prefer.
- went with a lowrance hook reveal 5
- minn Kota 30 for the trolling motor
- mounting two rod holders
- mounting a transducer arm
- mounting a a mount for the fish finder
- I’m using the weaver 2 part epoxy for gluing of all Scotty mounting pads
- going with jettabambino’s recommendation on the electric pump
Still looking for an engine. But otherwise That’s probably as far as I’m going to go for a bit. I like the converted milk crates for the seats a lot. And I’ll know soon enough if getting a cover for the floor is necessary. I like the ply wood a lot but it’s more weight/more to pack, etc. I’ll see if the high pressure flooring is stable enough as it is.
Thanks guys! And keep it coming. Still learning lots.
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Feel free to post some pics when you get it all done if you can ;D
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The hypalon glues can be removed - the Gorilla glue or the urethane glue - probably not. I have an older achilles and I wouldn't use anything other than hypalon glue on it.
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Made some good progress today! But Total noob here, but how do you post pictures? I see the picture button under the Bold button. But it just does this? Do I have to put a link from imgur or something between the (http://)?
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Hold on! Does this work?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/192583160@N06/51057924692/in/dateposted-public/
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Alrighty...
So I did the bow anchor lock similar to typhoon withe the weaver mounting plate. Aligned it on the front though with the top plate clean so I can add two more mounts there if I wished. The stern anchor lock is to be drilled into the transom tomorrow after acquiring silicone so I can properly seal the holes.
Two mount pads for the rod holders. One mount pad that’s hard to see but it’s below and behind the bench and holds the lowrance. So somethin I’m excited about... I went with a merc 4-stroke 5hp PROPANE engine. Maintenance is next to nothing and no messy/corrosive/smelly gas all over. Merc and minn Kota have full clearance on the transom. It’s definitely snug with the battery and the propane tank, but not bad when arranged correctly. Perfectly comfortable fishing with two people. Thoughts??
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Photo work's just fine! LOL..... now to get it out of the hallway and into the water!
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Haha almost ready. Next weekend should be the maiden voyage. Take it over to lake cowichan, troll some plugs. Super excited!
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Boat looks great! I'm curious about the performance of the propane outboard. If you think about it, let us know how the fuel economy is, and how slow/low it will idle down and troll.
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It's clean, for sure.
I have my fish finder head attached to the top of my battery box using a rare earth magnets. I also extra rare earth magnets to battery box and to the front anchor mount for storing tools, flies etc. while fishing. Can't have wayward hooks in an inflatable.
I attach my transducer to the transom using velcro instead of drilling more holes. I'm not a fan of holes near the waterline. I bolted the transducer to a piece of plastic (cutting board ~8" x 3" will work) then use industrial strength velcro on the plastic and on the transom. It never pops off and is easily removed for transport.
edit* oh, I just noticed you have the scotty anchor mount on the front of the Weaver plate. I have mine mounted on the top - better physics when running with the anchor hanging. If you always bring it in it's fine, but I don't. In fact I store my pyramid anchor behind the scotty mount on top of the Weaver plate.
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Definitely, I’m curious myself. Only just learned about them but I guess merc has been making them for a bit now. Didn’t quite take initially cause of a lack of parts but they’ve got them dialed in now and they’re super adorable. Merc says a 20lb tank will get you 10 hrs of run time at full throttle. I’ll most likely run a 10lb tank for space and weight. As far as ease of use goes, can’t be best. Hook the tank up, push the choke in and you’re off. No worrying about the carb after not using it for a couple months and you change the oil once a year, if that. Also the beauty is that I’m using propane on the campsite regardless so it’s multi use. Super excited about it, think it’s perfect for what I’m doing. If I’m going to be carrying a bunch of fuel around with me in the truck I’d rather it be propane than gasoline any day of the week. I’ll keep you guys posted.
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Haha I meant adorable regarding the motor. Also adorable lol.
And really cool about the magnets typhoon. I’m going to look into that. And I hear you about drilling into the transom. It’s the cleanest and most structurally sound mounting location for the rear anchor lock though. I’m using a liberal amount of silicone to get the holes sealed properly. Should be fine! And I like what you did with the Velcro. Something to explore. I was a little worried about having the transducer that close to the engine/trolling motor but you don’t appear to have any issues with interference or noise eh?
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*****affordable!!!!! Bloody autocorrect!