Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Wool on April 13, 2014, 11:01:00 PM
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Is there a difference in what type of line and rating to spool a center pin? I guessing most people are a one size fits all? The reason I ask is I want to spoon a 5" Campell for springs and I don't want to be wrong. Seems like a lot of choices hanging on the walls of the stores.
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I spooled up with 20lb of berkley transoptic and love it. Really helps you see your line and it's pretty supple
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Big Game mono 20# for big spring salmon. ;D
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The line I like best is Damyl Tectan 24.6 lb test. It is strong and small in diameter, 0.014 inch. Easy to cast and does not twist.Easy to mend and does not create a bow in your line in long casts.
In the recent months I have tried and tested many brands Sufix Elite, Siege, Promix, P-Line hydrofloat, CX,CXX, Raven, Sunllne Mono Shensei (this is very good too but expensive),Siglon FF , Siglon F(expensive and after a while breaks easily), Berkleys, and more……..but Damyl Tectan 24.6lb is my go to line. It is not cheap at $US$17.95 for 300m, allows you load into 2 CP of 4.38inch. I bought the 5000m bulk spool for US$159.95. This gives me 36 CP spools which will cost me more or less US$4.45 to spool one CP reel.If you wish to see it in action contact me and you will be convinced that this is possibly the best mono available today. This opinion is just my preference and my personal choice and my opinion does not at all claim that all the other lines available are not good.
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I don't CP, but why not one of the new superlines (suffix 832, PowerPro UltraSlick 8)?
They are limp enough for use on spinning reels, float, are higher visibility than mono...
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The problem with Sufix 832 and P-Line hydrofloat is they are braid lines. If you get a birds nest with these lines, you will have a nightmare on your hands trying to untangle it. When you get too many kinks on the Hydrofloat line , it breaks easily. Also the yellow coating on the Hydrofloat line wears off after some use and the core is exposed and this weakens the line.
I have used ultra green for years. Being mono it is stable and does not peel like hydrofloat. But I find it too thick in diameter and sinks, always creating a bow in the water in moderately long casts.
In my attempt to find a line I like, I have tried so many in the market and spent quite a bit of money in this search. Many lines twist and have memory which creates more twist and can cause problems in casting the line out. I find Dam Tectan has low memory and has practically no twist. Also being thin in diameter it casts out effortlessly. Just lifting the line allows u to mend easily and it floats down river off the water. Its a dream line.
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anyone especially beginners, deciding to use braided line for centerpin is asking for trouble...stiff mono is the best way to go.
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i also use ultra green 15lb test, never had an issue. best part walmart carries it for cheap. dont over think it. their are many other things that are far more important than the main line. 15lb test will be fine for just about every fish you encounter in the lower mainland besides big white springs and a few large chum. if you are targeting these two types of fish i would use a baitcaster anyways. just my 2 cents
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I Use 30lb braid as backing, But I fish 12lb ultra green as main for all salmon,, I've found its plenty strong enough to handle springs and chum on a centerpin if you don't horse around the fish, And light enough not to spook fish in Clear waters. I used braid for one season on a casting reel, I was not a fan in the least bit, It was completely unnecessary, And took away from the sensitivity that mono gives.
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I hear a lot of people say this aswell but never really understood why, wouldn't braid be more sesitive since there is no stretch? For me I have found that braid is so far better in terms of sensitivity, I can usually feel bites before I can see my float go down. But I use mono on my pins because I like to replace my line often and it's much cheaper.
I Use 30lb braid as backing, But I fish 12lb ultra green as main for all salmon,, I've found its plenty strong enough to handle springs and chum on a centerpin if you don't horse around the fish, And light enough not to spook fish in Clear waters. I used braid for one season on a casting reel, I was not a fan in the least bit, It was completely unnecessary, And took away from the sensitivity that mono gives.
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Maxima Chameleon 15 lb
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Its Just personal preference for me I don't like the lack of sensitivity when fighting a fish with braid, I prefer the stretch of the mono when fighing fish, Especially when I personally use such light leaders (never using over 10lb leader) fishing for salmon. I fish for fun, I only keep 2 or 3 small springs or coho a year, so I like to challenge myself with lighter gear, And I would only break off fish using braid. That and its cheaper to replace as you said, I re spool my center pin quite often during summer.
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Amazing info.
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Yah the mono acts like a built in shock absorber and pertects light leaders
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I Use 30lb braid as backing, But I fish 12lb ultra green as main for all salmon,, I've found its plenty strong enough to handle springs and chum on a centerpin if you don't horse around the fish, And light enough not to spook fish in Clear waters. I used braid for one season on a casting reel, I was not a fan in the least bit, It was completely unnecessary, And took away from the sensitivity that mono gives.
12 is way too light. You'll either end up breaking off and losing everything or spend way too much time fight a fish and stressing it out. 20 pound Chameleon is perfect for springs. If you want a challenge just stick with a lighter leader.
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Maxima Chameleon 15 lb
x2
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12 is way too light. You'll either end up breaking off and losing everything or spend way too much time fight a fish and stressing it out. 20 pound Chameleon is perfect for springs. If you want a challenge just stick with a lighter leader.
I don't target springs or chum, They are just by catch some times when fishing for coho in the fall, So that's why I only use 12lb mono as my main line and 8-10lb leader. And If I know I'm not going to land a fish, I can just break it off, Since I'm not going to fight a 30lb spring on my center pin rod rated 6-12lb. It's personal preference. I'm not worried about loosing gear, I find enough floats on the vedder during the fall salmon season in downed tree's to last the entire season. terminal tackle is cheap, And barbless hooks are used for a reason.
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I use 75 yards of dacron as backing and then fill the rest of the spool with about 150 yds of Sufix Siege, which after a period of trying other lines proved to be the best casting line I could find. I use the 12 lb test smoke green for steelhead, but they do make a 20lb test for which would work for bigger salmon. I spool a 3.75" Kingpin Regency I have with Sufix Elite for trout and even pinks which I pair with a 7-weight fly rod I built into a float rod. I have never reached the backing on my centerpin and the dacron helps to avoid getting the line on top of it from getting settled into itself, making casting difficult. DO NOT USE BRAID. If braid gets tangled at the tip-top and you don't notice it before you cast, it can take the tip right off your rod. I also would not advise putting any line rated above your rod's capacity on any rod, centerpin or otherwise. You're asking for a snapped rod that way. As far as tiring out a fish that you plan on keeping there is no harm in that...but if you're planning on catching and releasing the fish then you should be able to get a larger fish muscled in quickly. You have to consider that float rods are long not just for proper drift/line taming considerations, but also so that they can provide some buffer and shock absorption properties not found in other styles of rods. This is especially true with centerpin rods and why you see them in lengths upwards of 15'. You should have no problem getting a 20lb king to the bank with 12lb rated line if you play the fish properly and let your rod absorb head shakes and don't clamp down on the spool when the fish wants to run a bit. Think about how you're holding the rod and make sure that it is positioned so that you're getting maximum shock absorption (tip up...never hold a float rod on a flat lateral line parallel to the ground). Oh and use your arm as an additional shock-absorbing extension of your rod and you should be fine.
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I use 12 lb ultra green . And have for many years . I've landed 20 lb steelhead. If you get a nick , or your line is frayed., doesn't matter what lb test it is , it's gonna fail. You have to feel your line to see if it's damaged if you get snagged , or after you land a fish. Never had a fish break the mainline. I've had some break the leader though.