Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Spawn Sack on January 03, 2014, 09:10:57 PM
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I'm hoping ya'll can give me some advice on buying my next baitcasting rod. I currently have three:
#1 = Shimano Convergence. 10"6, 12-20lb line rating, 3/4-1.5oz lure rating, medium power, slow action. This is my favorite of the the three rods. It's nice and light (best feature for me), and balances well with the two reels I fish on it: a 301 Shimano Currado 301E and a 6501 Abu. The only down side to this rod is when fishing faster water or even in slower water with a big chum or spring on it seems a bit out-gunned. Neverless, I fish this rod most of the time.
#2 = Shimano Convergence. 10"6, 12-25 line rating, 3/4-2oz lure rating, med/heavy power, slow action. I rarely use this rod as it's just a bit too heavy that I find it tiring to fish after a while. Seems like I am "fighting the tip" whereas with the lighter version of this rod (#1) it balances nicely in the hand. When I do use this rod I usually slap a bigger reel on it: my Shimano Cardiff 401 or Abu 7001. The extra weight seems to baalnces the rod better and is less tiring to fish, even though the reel makes the overall weight heavier.
#3 = Shimano Technium. 11"6, 12-25 line rating, 3/4-2oz lure rating, med/heavy power, med/fast action. I rarely use this rod too. It is a BEAST and has hauled in many a big fish on the Vedder and Fraser. But it is heavy and needs one of the heavier reels listed with rod #2 to balance it. It has so much power that it is overkill for most fish in the Vedder (where I fish primarily) so I don't use it that often. However if the water is high/fast and I'm going after springs especially, I will bring out this meat stick.
I am looking for a new rod most like #1. Something nice and light that is well balanced, and will pair up well with my Currado 301E especially, as well as the 6501 Abu (I fish the Currado most of the time). I'm also probably going to buy a Calcutta 201B eventually and would like to use this reel on my new rod as well. It would be nice if it had a bit more power than rod #1, not much is needed, but a bit extra would be nice. I like the 10"6 length, but could handle going a bit longer.
I'm not in the market for a Sage or other rods in that price range. However I'm not looking for another Shimano or other "cheap" rod. I'm looking for something really sweet that won't break the bank. Say in the $300 range. The rod will be used for float fishing (I have other 9" rods for tossing spoons + spinners, etc).
Also, in the event someone has a lightly used rod that matches what I'm looking for and wants to sell it, I would be interested. Thanks in advance to all that apply.
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I've got #1 on your list paired up with a c4 and have been using it for the last 3 years drifting fishing your local rivers with no issues at all. Have caught tons of monster spring/chum/coho/steelhead over the years and still going hard with the amount of abuse it's taken. I would say it's the best all around rod it's nice and light and has some good sensitivity, I wouldn't really go any higher in ratings or length I personally think it holds up well from my experience and especially for the price you get it for can't go wrong plus it's got a lifetime warranty I believe so if anything happens to it just return to shimano.
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I would recommend GLoomis SAR 1265C rod. Line range 10-40, weight 2-8 oz. It designed for ocean fishing but it is excellent for river fishing too. Very light. You should be able to land any fish on any river(Fraser including). Very well balanced with Daiwa Luna 300 or ABU 6500. You should be able to find new one around 265$ or used (in good condition) for 180-200$.
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I've got #1 on your list paired up with a c4 and have been using it for the last 3 years drifting fishing your local rivers with no issues at all. Have caught tons of monster spring/chum/coho/steelhead over the years and still going hard with the amount of abuse it's taken. I would say it's the best all around rod it's nice and light and has some good sensitivity, I wouldn't really go any higher in ratings or length I personally think it holds up well from my experience and especially for the price you get it for can't go wrong plus it's got a lifetime warranty I believe so if anything happens to it just return to shimano.
I agree 100% it's an awesome rod and you can't argue with the price I think it was $100 taxes in :o
And I don't "need" a new rod, #1 functions perfectly and I love it, honestly I just want a new toy, and a better toy than my current toys :)
If I can find something even lighter that #1, with better balance, better sensitivity, and a bit more backbone/power I would be a happy man. That being said I am not looking to get into a custom Sage, etc. If I can not find something I am confident in buying for a reasonable price them I'll just stick with the Shimanos.
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I would recommend GLoomis SAR 1265C rod. Line range 10-40, weight 2-8 oz. It designed for ocean fishing but it is excellent for river fishing too. Very light. You should be able to land any fish on any river(Fraser including). Very well balanced with Daiwa Luna 300 or ABU 6500. You should be able to find new one around 265$ or used (in good condition) for 180-200$.
Holy crap! 10-40lb line rating and 2-8oz lure rating! That would pull my car out of a ditch! :o How long is this rod? I've heard some guys say the rod rating really need to be taken with a grain of salt, and it's hard to compare one brand of rod to another based purely on the specs. I will check this rod out, but based on the specs it sounds like way more beef than I'm looking for.
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I would recommend GLoomis SAR 1265C rod. Line range 10-40, weight 2-8 oz. It designed for ocean fishing but it is excellent for river fishing too. Very light. You should be able to land any fish on any river(Fraser including). Very well balanced with Daiwa Luna 300 or ABU 6500. You should be able to find new one around 265$ or used (in good condition) for 180-200$.
Looking at these rods right now on Gloomis' website. You're right, although they are ocean rods they also reccomend them for river fishing.
The 1265 is a 10"6, 10-40lb line rating, 2-8oz lure rating, moderate action, heavy power. I'm by no means a rod spec expert, but it looks to me like this is a big step up in power compared to my rod #1, and probably more than I'm looking for.
What do you think of the 1363? It's an 11"4, 10-20lb line rating (close to the 12-20 I like on rod #1), 3/8 - 1oz lure rating (close to the 3/4 - 1.5oz I like on rod #1), med-heavy power, fast action.
http://www.gloomis.com/publish/content/gloomis_2010/us/en/conventional/rods/classic_salmon___steelhead/classic_salmon.html
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Not that I'm by any means stuck on Gloomis, but lapa got me started on their rods so I've been surfing their site (should be FISHING today, but stuck at work, grrrr...what a nice day out!) >:(
Didn't see much I liked under their "steelhead series" salmon and steelhead rods. All are 9"8 or shorter. Too short. Under the "salmon series" all apear to be too beefy for what I'm looking for. Under the "float series" ahhhh...now we're talking!! :) I like the looks of the STFR 1363S. 11"4, 8-12lb line rating, 1/4-3/4 lure rating, mod/fast action, med/light power. The price is a bit more than I'm looking to pay though...
http://www.gloomis.com/publish/content/gloomis_2010/us/en/conventional/rods/salmon___steelhead/float.html
Mainly talking out my a** here as I don't know a lot about rods I'll be the first to admit. Curious what those with a lot more knowledge in this area have to say.
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When I first started fishing I went through a bunch of the mid to cheaper range rods and I still have my convergence as a backup rod, great rod IMO. However I did decide to make a step up and try something a little more expensive and I went with Gloomis. The rods are light, built to last (also lifetime warranty) and they are generally just fun rods to fish with. Now I also have a sage and loomis does not compare but my sage is custom built and cost me double so it shouldn't be the same. I have 3 rods from loomis, one is a 8'6 6-12lb, really light, great for small steams and tossing hardware. The step up is an 11'3 7-15lb, hard rod to find and is still really light, great steelhead and coho rod, handles chum but big springs are iffy. The other rod is a center pin rod backup. Now Gloomis makes great rods for the price, however I find they are mostly for the coho and steelhead, if you want to beef it up you can but to me that kinda kills the light type feel of the loomis rods.
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Steely, I am liking the sounds of the second rod you described. That is pretty much what I'm looking for: as light as possible with just a bit more backbone/power than rod #1 in my initial posting. Mainly for coho, chum et , and if I get the odd monster on and am clearly outgunned oh well I can always straighten the rod and snap the leader. What is the name of this loomis rod you speak of? Can you still buy then new? If you don't mind pls take a look at the 2 rods above I have links to and let me know what you think of their specs. It is very important that I don't get a rod that's too noodley as I would definitely not want a rod that has less fighting power than my rod #1. Like I said ideally just a wee bit more, but lighter and better balanced.
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Check out Lamiglass rods they have some nice drift rods too.
Silex-user
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Well unfortunatly the shimano convergence is beefier then all the rods I mentioned. If you are looking for something with more power then your looking at something like a 12-25lb type rod. I just find that to get the full effect of a more expensive rod I sacrificed power for the fun of playing a fish on a lighter rod. For steelhead and coho these rods are great but if you want something with more power then your shimano your looking at a more expensive technium basically. However it is all personal feel but that's the way I look at it. Also the second one I mentioned I bought off of somebody and have not seen one like it anywhere however the 11'4 you mentioned is very similar I'm sure.
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I would fish the Convergance and put some money aside every now and then.
When you have enough,buy a Sage 2106lb .
In the whole scheme of things it wont cost you in the long run and you will be fishing a premier stick and components with a great warranty.
I loved my old convergance until I broke it but my Sage 3106 has been bullet proof with not a sign of loose thread etc. after about 10 years use now.
I just wish I had been more patient and got the 2106lb.
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Look for something in the same line rating/power(may have to up it to mh) as your convergance but with a moderate/moderate fast action....this will give you the extra backbone in the bottom...http://www.fethastyx.com/Chrome ..built on rainshadow blanks....in the price range you wanted...riverside in poco is listed as a dealer..
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Well unfortunatly the shimano convergence is beefier then all the rods I mentioned. If you are looking for something with more power then your looking at something like a 12-25lb type rod. I just find that to get the full effect of a more expensive rod I sacrificed power for the fun of playing a fish on a lighter rod. For steelhead and coho these rods are great but if you want something with more power then your shimano your looking at a more expensive technium basically. However it is all personal feel but that's the way I look at it. Also the second one I mentioned I bought off of somebody and have not seen one like it anywhere however the 11'4 you mentioned is very similar I'm sure.
Hmmm...I don't want to get another 12-25lb rod. I have two (listed at start of thread). I'm not sure if there is a power rating between 12-20 and 12-25 (?) Anyone care to comment?
Would you mind giving the number of the loomis rod you have (despite is being hard to get)?
You say the 11"4 rod I mentioned is similar to your rod, however I mentioned two 11"4 rods. One is 10-20lb rating, and the other is 8-12lb rating.
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Look for something in the same line rating/power(may have to up it to mh) as your convergance but with a moderate/moderate fast action....this will give you the extra backbone in the bottom...http://www.fethastyx.com/Chrome ..built on rainshadow blanks....in the price range you wanted...riverside in poco is as a dealer..
Firstlight, thank you I will check out the Sage 2106lb. Probably more than I want to spend but hey it can't hurt to look and consider it.
Spoon man, alright I will try to find something in the same line rating as you said. I'm pretty sure I do not want to go up to med-heavy power, or maybe I do? My 10-25 line rods are too beefy for my liking, but maybe the med-heavy power has less to do with it than the line rating? In other words, maybe 10-20 line rating in med/heavy will be what I'm looking for? I'll have to do more research on rod rating as I pretty much get what they all mean, however I get confused when comparing diferent actions, powers, etc.
Any opinion on the two loomis rods listed earlier? (11"4 #1363 series rods, one in 10-20lb line rating and the other in 8-12lb line)?
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I think to answer your question you need to ask yourself what species, and water, would you be targeting with this "new" rod? If you're mainly targeting coho and steelhead, with the odd spring in the mix in the Vedder, then I would recommend a medium power rod (8 - 17 lb). The Sage 2106 is in that category, and it is a sweet rod indeed! If you're looking at primarily targeting springs and chum, then go with a heavier line rating.
I've got a Looms GL2 STR 1264 C that has a line rating of 8 - 12 lb, and I've used this rod mainly for coho and steelhead. It does have the backbone to fight chum and springs as well, but this wouldn't be my first choice for targeting the larger salmon. The GL2 is a good rod and it comes with a warranty. However, it does not compare to my factory Sage 2106. My Sage is far more sensitive, feels much lighter in hand, has decent backbone to battle the odd spring, and is forgiving enough not to break off light leaders when fighting chrome bullet fish that are flailing like crazy close to shore. Sage uses the term "fishability" and I believe they have engineered this into their rods! Also, I would consider a factory rod over a custom rod. Sage dresses its rods beautifully, and if it breaks - it gets replaced (minus the warranty fee) which beats having to get the rod rebuilt at your own expense. Both Stratocaster and I have broken our 2106 rods and had them replaced - so having that warranty for a factory rod was great.
If you can't afford a Sage, then I would recommend the Loomis GL2 as a good rod at a moderate price point. Good luck!
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Thank you very much FFM :) I plan to use the rod mainly for coho and steehead, as well as pinks and chum. The odd spring as well, but if targeting them specifically them I'd bring out the big 11"6 Technium in 12-25lb line rating. I can turn the biggest/ulgliest hawg with this rod no problem!
I'll mainly be using the rod on the Vedder. The water I mainly fish is generally lower river, using a lots of jigs etc. If heading up river to faster water I'll bring the above beef stick and one of my bigger reels.
I checked out the GL2 STR 1264 C in 8-12 line rating. I see it is a 10"6 rod, with 8-12 line rating as you said, 3/8-3/4 lure rating, moderate action, medium power. MSRP $275.
What do you think of it compared to the 1363S? It's 11"4, 8-12lb line rating, 1/4 - 3/4 lure rating, moderate/fast action, medium light power. MSRP $365
http://www.gloomis.com/publish/content/gloomis_2010/us/en/conventional/rods/salmon___steelhead/float.html
I see 1363 is 10 inches longer, same line rating, very similar lure rating, and has a faster action. It also costs $90 more!
Which one do you think would have more hook setting power, etc? Price aside, which one would you go with if you were me? You have to admit the red color on the 1363 is pretty damn sharp too :)
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So instead of going to the gym before work this morning I spent most of the time researching baitcasting rods ;D I found I really good old thread on this site on the Sage 2106 and if it is the "best" rod out there for coho, steelhead, etc.
http://www.fishingwithrod.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=22798.0
Does anyone know where I can find info on the specs of diffeent Sage gear rods? I went to Sage's website, and they have nothing! Only fly rods...wtf?
Seems like a LOT of people reccoemend the Sage 2106 for what I'm looking for, as well as the 3106. However I would liek to find some specs on these rods and compare them to the Gloomis and other rods I've been looking at.
Also, does anyone know the difference between Gloomis's GL2 and GL3 rods? (aside from the extra $70)
Going strictly from what I've been reading on the forums and specs on the manufacturer's website, the rods I am liking are:
Gloomis STFR 1363S, 11"4, 8-12 line, 1/4-3/4 lure, med/light power, mod/fast action
Gloomis STR 1264, 10"6, 8-12 line, 3/8-3/4 lure, medium power, moderate action
Gloomis GL3 1263, 10"6, 6-12 line, 3/8-3/4 line, medium power, fast action (and the same rod in GL2 for $70 less)
Gloomis GL3 1445C (seems you cant buy this rod new any more, not on Gloomis website)
Sage 2106
Sage 3106 (can'tfind specs on either rod)
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You won't find specs on the Sage gear rods on the Sage website because they discontinued making them a few years ago! However, I believe Sage brought them back specifically for BC. Fred's, Searun, and other local shops sell them, and Brian Babcock has the contract from Sage to build and deal the factory rods up here. Otherwise, these rods are not normally available in other areas (i.e. US) which is why you won't find information on them Sage's website. From what I know, they are the same as what Sage put out a few years ago. Dark green blanks, and gold wraps. Beautiful rods.
I wouldn't go with a 3106 if you were mainly targeting coho or steelhead in local rivers like the Vedder/Chilliwack. Don't get me wrong. The 3106 is a beautiful rod. My buddy Stratocaster has one, but he uses it primarily for springs and big water like the Fraser.
The GL3 blanks are lighter and higher modulus graphite then the GL2 series, meaning that they are faster action blanks. Faster isn't necessarily better for gear rods IMHO. For fly casting, I find faster action rods better for tossing heavy sink tips, but this does not apply to gear rods of course. A faster action rod will give you a better initial hook set, but I can see a disadvantage if the rod is "too fast". You could pull out a lot of hooks if you fight a fish too hard. I prefer a more moderate action for gear. Just my 50 cents worth.
I haven't checked out the Loomis 1363S you mentioned above, but it looks like its handle is designed for single action/centre pin reels from reviewing the site you posted.
Cheers. :)
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Well that makes sense! I've been looking everywhere on the net and can't find any specs ??? Do you by chance have the specs on the 2106 and 3106? I head what you're saying about the 3106 so it's the 2106 I'm mainly interested in. I'm not sure what they go for new but almost definitely more than I'm looking to pay new. I'll nose around for a used one online and if no luck either save up my beans and buy one later in the year, or go with a cheaper rod like a Gloomis, etc.
On a bit of a tangent, what do you look for in a used rod? As far as I know you want to check the guides with a q-tip (or razor? I've heard of this too although not sure how it's done) and make sure there are no cracked guides. As long as the rod appeared otherwise in good condition I'd buy it if the price were right.
Anyway back on topic, FFM thanks for the tips on rod action, that make sense. I like my convergence in 10-20lb line rating but I find the slow action makes getting a solid hook set a bugger at times. However I like the deep bend with a fish on. I agree a compromise somewhere around moderate action would likely be what I want in my next rod.
Opps I ddin't notice the 1363S was a center pin rod ::) What do you think of the G/L 1263 GL2/GL3? They are both 10"6 like your 1264, however the line rating is 6-12 and the action is fast. I'm thinking the 1264 is better suited to my purposes, although it doesn't appear that it comes in GL3. Oh wait looking at the specs it appears that the 1264 is a C/P rod only, no? :-\
Apparently the G/L GL3 1445C (12", 8-17lb line) is a great rod in this category but discontinued. and hard to find.
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Spawn Sack, back in 80's and 90's Sage drift rod blanks came out with 2 type of GSH2106 there were 2106B 6-15lbs Fast Action Steelhead and Salmon Blanks and 2106LB 6-12lbs Moderate Action Steelhead and Salmon Blanks.
Same thing with 3106's .......GSH3106LB 6-15lbs and GSH3106B 6-20lbs.
I have Custom built Sage rods (Brian Bacock and Brian Ford) as far back to late 80's to present era 3113M custom build CP Sage rod by Brian Ford. I also have G.Loomis IM6 blanks custom built rods too. Yes they expensive but power and lightness are unbelievable.
I am not sure what the new G.Loomis GL rods are like.
I do have couple old Sage Blank 1992 Catalogs.
I hope this answer your question. :)
Silex-user
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Hi Spawn Sack. I know how difficult it is to buy a rod when you do not have a chance to fish it. I had a very old 8-17lb Convergence for many years. I had a 1263GL2 for many years. I have a 1263GL3 which I used for a year. The difference between the action of a GL2 and GL3 are totally different. I am currently using a 1263 Rainshadow. Of those I have used, the Rainshadow is the best as it is light, sensitive and has too much butt strength even though it is an 8-12lb I believe. It is what I use for steelhead to springs on the Vedder. I mostly use 10 or 8lb leader but sometimes have gone to a 15lb or even 17 in faster water for springs. The action is very good for the Vedder. Although I have not fished a Sage 2106, I believe the action is close. One difference is the Rainshadow is about 2/3 the physical weight of a 2106. And another maybe the breakage brought up earlier. I have not broken the Rainshadow and even though I try to be careful, sometimes I get carried away and there is a beyond serious bend in the rod when I am beaching a fish in an awkward spot. Good luck.
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Spawn Sack, back in 80's and 90's Sage drift rod blanks came out with 2 type of GSH2106 there were 2106B 6-15lbs Fast Action Steelhead and Salmon Blanks and 2106LB 6-12lbs Moderate Action Steelhead and Salmon Blanks.
Same thing with 3106's .......GSH3106LB 6-15lbs and GSH3106B 6-20lbs.
I have Custom built Sage rods (Brian Bacock and Brian Ford) as far back to late 80's to present era 3113M custom build CP Sage rod by Brian Ford. I also have G.Loomis IM6 blanks custom built rods too. Yes they expensive but power and lightness are unbelievable.
I am not sure what the new G.Loomis GL rods are like.
I do have couple old Sage Blank 1992 Catalogs.
I hope this answer your question. :)
Silex-user
Thank you very much. For my purposes would you reccomend the 2106 in B or LB? From what I know about rod specs and from what others have commented on this site, the LB would be the way to go for floatfishing on the waters I frequent most often.
If I am lucky enough to own such a rod I'll probably keep scouting around online and try to find a used one in very good condition. I found a few but they were all set up for center pins ??? For kicks I'd like to price out a new one. Where would you guys reccomend? Sea Run is my go to store although I live in Chilliwack.
In the unlikely event someone has one they'd like to sell it would go to a good home as I fish all the time and take very good care of my s**t. Especially my fishing rods/reels!
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Hi Spawn Sack. I know how difficult it is to buy a rod when you do not have a chance to fish it. I had a very old 8-17lb Convergence for many years. I had a 1263GL2 for many years. I have a 1263GL3 which I used for a year. The difference between the action of a GL2 and GL3 are totally different. I am currently using a 1263 Rainshadow. Of those I have used, the Rainshadow is the best as it is light, sensitive and has too much butt strength even though it is an 8-12lb I believe. It is what I use for steelhead to springs on the Vedder. I mostly use 10 or 8lb leader but sometimes have gone to a 15lb or even 17 in faster water for springs. The action is very good for the Vedder. Although I have not fished a Sage 2106, I believe the action is close. One difference is the Rainshadow is about 2/3 the physical weight of a 2106. And another maybe the breakage brought up earlier. I have not broken the Rainshadow and even though I try to be careful, sometimes I get carried away and there is a beyond serious bend in the rod when I am beaching a fish in an awkward spot. Good luck.
Hmmm...I'll have to check out these rainshadow rods. As far as the GL2 Vs. GL3, which do you like better for the Vedder? Have you heard of Fetha Styx Chrome? According to Spoonman on page 1 of this thread they are built on rainshadow blanks. They are also pretty affordable. I like the looks of the FS-St-1063. Any opinion on these rods?
http://www.fethastyx.com/shop/Chrome/Steelhead
I'm also seriously looking at Gloomis' 1263 GL3 (6-12 line) although I'm not really sure if the fast action is well suited for my purposes.
Also like the Gloomis STFR 1363 (8-12 line) although the medium/light power rating has me wondering if it has enough power for what I want. Perhaps the moderate/fast action would make up for this? I know with my Convergence in 10-20lb line it's great with a fish on but the slow action makes it hard to get a good hook set at times.
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Hey Spawn Sack if I was to choose which Sage GSH 2106 baitcast drift rod for the Chillwack-Vedder I would choose the stiffer 2106B. I was told by Brain Bacock back then (26 years ago) the LB was slower action rod more suited for Center-pin reel. I do have a GSH2106LB and I pair it up to my Trudex II 2550 C-Pin reel which is light action comb. for liking for low clear water condition.
I do not have GSH2106B but do have GSH 4120B and GSH 3106B.
My go to rods are my GSH 3113LB, GSH 3113MB and the new 3113M CT Gear for all my C-pin reels. It sure night and days difference now compare when I first started using my Hardy TEN-TEN float drift fishing rod back 38 years ago and now with my Sage rods. :) ;D
Silex-user
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Well that makes sense! I've been looking everywhere on the net and can't find any specs ??? Do you by chance have the specs on the 2106 and 3106? I head what you're saying about the 3106 so it's the 2106 I'm mainly interested in. I'm not sure what they go for new but almost definitely more than I'm looking to pay new. I'll nose around for a used one online and if no luck either save up my beans and buy one later in the year, or go with a cheaper rod like a Gloomis, etc.
On a bit of a tangent, what do you look for in a used rod? As far as I know you want to check the guides with a q-tip (or razor? I've heard of this too although not sure how it's done) and make sure there are no cracked guides. As long as the rod appeared otherwise in good condition I'd buy it if the price were right.
Anyway back on topic, FFM thanks for the tips on rod action, that make sense. I like my convergence in 10-20lb line rating but I find the slow action makes getting a solid hook set a bugger at times. However I like the deep bend with a fish on. I agree a compromise somewhere around moderate action would likely be what I want in my next rod.
Opps I ddin't notice the 1363S was a center pin rod ::) What do you think of the G/L 1263 GL2/GL3? They are both 10"6 like your 1264, however the line rating is 6-12 and the action is fast. I'm thinking the 1264 is better suited to my purposes, although it doesn't appear that it comes in GL3. Oh wait looking at the specs it appears that the 1264 is a C/P rod only, no? :-\
Apparently the G/L GL3 1445C (12", 8-17lb line) is a great rod in this category but discontinued. and hard to find.
My Loomis rod is the GL2 STR 1264 C and it has a trigger handle (i.e. baitcaster reel seat). It's actually a maroon/burgundy coloured rod, but a friend of mine bought the same rod a year ago and it now comes as a dark blue coloured rod.
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I have not used the Fetha rods. The GL2 has a slower action. The GL3 has a faster action. It depends on what you like. If you are interested in a used GL3, email me at norm1745@hotmail.com.
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Whew! I read back over this entire thread and made some notes as trying to remember all the info was giving me a nose bleed.
One thing I have been noticing with rod ratings is the line rating does not always correspond with the power rating. For example, my 10-20lb line Convergence is a medium power. The Gloomis GL2 1263C is a medium power but has a line rating of 6-12lb :o Then there is the Gloomis STFR 1363S with a 8-12 line rating, but only med/light power. What the heck? Obviously there is something I'm not quite getting...
FFM: It appears that your 1264 now only comes with a center pin handle. So that's out as an option for baitcasting. And you mentioned that the 1363S has a center pin only handle. I am having trouble with Gloomis' website right now and can't get the handle pics to load, but I'm pretty sure when I looked before it came with a bait caster handle. I'll double check later from home.
Assuming the 1363S has an appropriate handle, which of the three would you go if you were me?
STFR 1363: 11"4, 8-12 line, 1/4-3/4 line, med/light power, mod/fast action
GL3 1263: 10"6, 6-12 line, 3/8-3/4 line, med power, fast action
GL2: exact same specs as GL3 except MSRP of $70 less **apparently GL2 is "slower" than GL3 despite same action rating**
I like the looks of the 1363, although the med/light power has me a bit nervous.
I like the looks of the 1263 in GL2 and GL3 although the fast action has me a bit nervous.
I appreciate all the Sage info Silex-user and others. The next time I'm in Fred's or SeaRun I will price them out. From there I'll have to decide if I want a new cheaper rod now, or hold off and get a Sage later. Thanks for all the info guys appreciate it :)
Norm_2: email sent to your hotmail account.
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1363S is a spinning rod if you haven't figured that out already
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...don't get too hung up on the numbers...line rating, power ,and action are separate and distinct qualities that are subjective and not really comparable between brands or even different models by the same maker.....touchy/feely is a big part of it...borrow some rods if possible...go to tackle shops and shake some sticks .......take a weight on some line to do a static load comparison.....trial and error is involved and you may end up with something you dont't like...better off doing it with a low to mid price rod while looking for that sweet to you feel before blowing the bank...don't rule out looking at rods(fenwick/berkley/okuma) closer to the $100-$150 mark.......the fish don't care what make or how much you paid....
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Although I have not fished a Sage 2106, I believe the action is close.
I am curious what you are basing your opinion on? I am not sure how you can compare actions if you have never used one of the rods in question. ::)
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1363S is a spinning rod if you haven't figured that out already
Seriously?! I went back and looked at the pics...yeah...I think you're right :-\ I just assumed since they were under the "float rods" that the A and B handles were baitcasters. Crap. Oh well on less decision to make.
Thanks though for pointing that out.
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there's a 1363C GL3 if you can find one
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Whew! I read back over this entire thread and made some notes as trying to remember all the info was giving me a nose bleed.
One thing I have been noticing with rod ratings is the line rating does not always correspond with the power rating. For example, my 10-20lb line Convergence is a medium power. The Gloomis GL2 1263C is a medium power but has a line rating of 6-12lb :o Then there is the Gloomis STFR 1363S with a 8-12 line rating, but only med/light power. What the heck? Obviously there is something I'm not quite getting...
FFM: It appears that your 1264 now only comes with a center pin handle. So that's out as an option for baitcasting. And you mentioned that the 1363S has a center pin only handle. I am having trouble with Gloomis' website right now and can't get the handle pics to load, but I'm pretty sure when I looked before it came with a bait caster handle. I'll double check later from home.
Assuming the 1363S has an appropriate handle, which of the three would you go if you were me?
STFR 1363: 11"4, 8-12 line, 1/4-3/4 line, med/light power, mod/fast action
GL3 1263: 10"6, 6-12 line, 3/8-3/4 line, med power, fast action
GL2: exact same specs as GL3 except MSRP of $70 less **apparently GL2 is "slower" than GL3 despite same action rating**
I like the looks of the 1363, although the med/light power has me a bit nervous.
I like the looks of the 1263 in GL2 and GL3 although the fast action has me a bit nervous.
I appreciate all the Sage info Silex-user and others. The next time I'm in Fred's or SeaRun I will price them out. From there I'll have to decide if I want a new cheaper rod now, or hold off and get a Sage later. Thanks for all the info guys appreciate it :)
Norm_2: email sent to your hotmail account.
Not to belabour the point, but Berry's sells the GL2 1264 C (with trigger handle). Check it out here:
http://www.berrysbait.com/products/1/1/1/1/casting-216/g-loomis-23/gl2-1/gl2-str-1264-c-w-trigger-13791.aspx
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Wow thank you for pointing that out! Would you be more inclined to go with the 1264 over the 1263? Looking as the specs I think I would. The 1264 has a slightly higher line rating (8-12 compared to 6-12...although I doubt it would be that noticeable) and a moderate action compared compared to the fast action of the 1263.
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Some other information: I used the Common Cents System to measure some Gloomis rods.
GL3-1263
Effective Rod Number of 14.1. Action Angle of 79. This is a very powerful rod (comparable to an 8-9wt Spey rod and equivalent to a 12wt single handed fly rod) that is also fast action (sensitive tip).
GL2-1265 - ERN: 15.5, AA: 72. So more powerful with a much stiffer tip.
If I were buying a factory levelwind float rod it would be the GL3-1263. It has enough backbone for large chum and springs, but is light and sensitive enough to be used for spoon fishing.
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Well, thanks for all the tips guys :) I think I have all the info I need, now I just need to sit down and think exactly how much I want to spend and what I want. The final rods I'm looking at are:
Gloomis 1264 GL2: 10"6, 8-12 line rating, 3/8-3/4 lure rating, medium power, moderate action. MSRP $275
Gloomis 1263 GL2: 10"6, 6-12 line rating, 3/8-3/4 lure rating, medium power, fast action. MSRP $275
Gloomis 1263 GL3: exact same specs as 1263 GL2. MSRP $345 (however I found a used mint on in the states for $230 shipped free to Sumas)
Rainshadow XST 1263F: 10"6, 8-12 line rating, 3/8-3/4 lure rating, med/light power, fast action (I emailed Valley Custom Rods and they said about $350-$450 depending on cost of components).
Sage 2106 B( also called CT?): 10"6, 8-17 line rating, 3/8-3/4 lure rating, can't find specs on power rating, med/fast action.
I am temped to go with the 1263 GL2 as there is a ton of good reviews on it and it seems like a solid rod for my purposes. It's also "cheap" compared to the others. The 1263 GL3 has a lot of mixed reviews mosty people seem to love it or find it too stiff. One reviewer owned the GL2 and GL3 and said he did not like the GL3 for float fishing as he found it too stiff.
The Rainshadow is has a lot of good reviews but it's approaching the price of a Sage, so I think I would rather just spend a bit more $ and get the Sage. On the other hand it's nice to have something different than a lot of other people are fishing, so for that reason the Rainshadow still has my interest.
The Sage 2106 is arguably the best rod made in this backbone category and seems like a no-brainer if I want to get the best and not worry about upgrading in 5 years.
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Sage may make you happier (because you can say you have a Sage), but there have been lots of changes in technology in 20 years.
GL3 and Rainshadow blanks are significantly lighter, for example.
My latest build is a personal Rainshadow XST1263F for salmon and steelies. I tried it out last week and it is very light, quick recovery, and very sensitive.
I am very happy with it.
ERN: 12.55, AA:77
(http://gallery.flybc.ca/albums/album919/full_grip1.jpg)
(http://gallery.flybc.ca/albums/album919/ferrule3.jpg)
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Rainshadow XST1263F.......... FS-ST-1063-2c
2
10'6
6-15lb/20lb braid
1/4-3/4oz
Mod-Fast
Medium
$215.00 probably the same blank they use to build this???? 1/2 the price of a custom build....
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Rainshadow XST1263F.......... FS-ST-1063-2c
2
10'6
6-15lb/20lb braid
1/4-3/4oz
Mod-Fast
Medium
$215.00 probably the same blank they use to build this???? 1/2 the price of a custom build....
Mmmm...I don't believe it's the same blank. Although I could be wrong. According to Valley Custom Rods the XST 1263F blank is an RX8 blank which is a cutting edge "high modulus high strain rate" blank. I imagine the Fetha Styx rods use a lower end Rainshadow blank such as a RX-4 or RX-6. I'm curious and will ask VCR and report back.
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Sage may make you happier (because you can say you have a Sage), but there have been lots of changes in technology in 20 years.
GL3 and Rainshadow blanks are significantly lighter, for example.
My latest build is a personal Rainshadow XST1263F for salmon and steelies. I tried it out last week and it is very light, quick recovery, and very sensitive.
I am very happy with it.
ERN: 12.55, AA:77
(http://gallery.flybc.ca/albums/album919/full_grip1.jpg)
(http://gallery.flybc.ca/albums/album919/ferrule3.jpg)
Wow nice looking rod! (probably the only place you can say this without is sounding gay, lol!)
Haha yeah I suppouse it would be nice to say "I own a Sage" but I don't care that much to be honest. If I do go for the 2106 it would have to be a nice used one as I just can't justify dropping $550ish at the shop for a new one. I'm in no big rush to buy a new rod and will keep an eye out on the buy and sell on this site, Craig's List, etc.
Typhoon, I'm curious what type of reel do you fish on this rod? I'm assuming such light rod would pair up well with a nice light reel like a Currado 300E, Abu 6500, Calcutta 200, etc.
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My bad...xst blanks seem to be mostly fast action...having a heck of a time navving the batson cataloge...there is an rx-6 blank that meets the specs(could also be a 7)....but I would really not call it "lower-end"...still a 33 million modulus...consider that higher modulus and the ensuing faster action could make the xst blanks more brittle and prone to bruising and breakage...the rx-6 would be one tough mofo...
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Good point. I also notice that the Rainshadows only have a "limited lifetime" warranty. In other words, if you read the fine print, if it's your fault (in their opinion) that it broke, it will not be warrantied. Heck even my Reddington fly rod has a better warranty. It got slammed in a truck door, 100% my fault, and they gave me a new one no questions asked. Juts had to pay the $40 processing fee.
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...fell and broke the top three inches off my near brand new custom rainshadow 1355-F and had top section replaced for $20 plus shipping($20) through VCR....pretty tough finding an unlimited lifetime these days...not unlimited/no questions if you have to pay any kind of fee(imo)....miss the old days when you could take your rod back to Roger at Hub's and he would bust it over his knee before handing you one off the rack!!!
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How much do they charge for rebuilt the front section ?
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Final bill was around $200(think that included blank costs) but I also had Mark tweak some things I was not happy with on the original build(he did not do it)...Tweaked trim ring,cork by butt cap, and fluted/shaped cork. Also had to buy thread I wanted off e-bay.Labour specifically for re-tie prob $125 ? ..cost me a bit more than average because I had him redo the guides on the bottom as well...also went all out with accent wrap(2) on all guides ..... before (http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Spoonman_05/P2050374.jpg) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Spoonman_05/media/P2050374.jpg.html) after(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Spoonman_05/P3230009_zpsf65c1018.jpg) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Spoonman_05/media/P3230009_zpsf65c1018.jpg.html) (http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r79/Spoonman_05/P3230011_zps16409a85.jpg) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/Spoonman_05/media/P3230011_zps16409a85.jpg.html)
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Spoonman, wow that was an expensive slip! However the repaired rod looks awesome and I'm sure you're happier with it now that a few things were tweaked.
So I'm talking with a guy at work today about the possibility of buying a Sage. He said, as FlyFishin Magician pointed out earlier, Sage no longer makes/sells factory gear rods. Guy at work was saying, and I think there is certainly some validity to this, that if I buy a used Sage I should look for a FACTORY rod. I believe someone actually mentioned this back a couple pages in this thread.
He made a good point that if I break a custom rod, Sage will replace it with a blank, then I will have to pay to have it re-custom built. Whereas if I break a factory rod, Sage will replace it with the same factory rod. Does this sound accurate? Are the factory rods more valuable/worth more?
I contacted an online seller with a brand new, never fished factory (green) 2106B (8-17 line). He is asking $600 for it and says he'll take $550 for it and not a dime less. Do you guys think this is a fair price? Worth paying for factory new instead of someone else's used custom rod?
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The advantage of a custom built rod is that it is built to your specifications, parts etc.
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Spawn sack, I have a buddy looking to sell a barely used, mint condition factory 2106. PM me your contact info and I'll put you guys in touch.
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Spoonman, wow that was an expensive slip! However the repaired rod looks awesome and I'm sure you're happier with it now that a few things were tweaked.
So I'm talking with a guy at work today about the possibility of buying a Sage. He said, as FlyFishin Magician pointed out earlier, Sage no longer makes/sells factory gear rods. Guy at work was saying, and I think there is certainly some validity to this, that if I buy a used Sage I should look for a FACTORY rod. I believe someone actually mentioned this back a couple pages in this thread.
He made a good point that if I break a custom rod, Sage will replace it with a blank, then I will have to pay to have it re-custom built. Whereas if I break a factory rod, Sage will replace it with the same factory rod. Does this sound accurate? Are the factory rods more valuable/worth more?
I contacted an online seller with a brand new, never fished factory (green) 2106B (8-17 line). He is asking $600 for it and says he'll take $550 for it and not a dime less. Do you guys think this is a fair price? Worth paying for factory new instead of someone else's used custom rod?
I was the one that suggested considering buying a factory rod. Yes, if you break it, Sage will replace the entire part, or rod - you will not need to pay to have it rebuilt. With a custom rod, Sage would give you the blank, but you will then need to rebuild the rod at your own expense. There is a processing fee either way - I recalled it was 50 bucks to have my tip replaced? Minimal charge IMHO considering that I've got this rod with the warranty for life!
If you don't like the way a factory rod is put together, or you have your own preferences, then go for the custom! Custom rods can be very beautiful pieces of artwork for sure. But I think Sage does a very nice job on its factory rods, so having a custom Sage over a factory model just isn't worth it for me.
As far as initial costs go, I thought that factory rods were a bit more expensive than a custom rod (blank plus build cost put together). But the lifetime warranty (minus any processing fee) is worth it over the headache of having to have a rod, or even a tip, rebuilt. Just my 50 cents worth.
Btw - if you went for the Sage 2106, you will not be disappointed! This is my favorite gear rod by far over my Trophy, Shimano, and G Loomis gear rods. Most of my fly rods (6 of them) are Sage rods as well and I love them all! I don't think you can go wrong investing in a Sage rod.
Yes, the Sage gear rods were discontinued a few years back, but as I mentioned before, Sage brought them back recently for BC. I saw them at Fred's this Fall while taking a break fishing the Vedder. I also spoke with Sea Run and was told that Brian Babcock has the contract from Sage to build the factory rods up here in BC. Hopefully this hasn't been discontinued. Good luck and have fun! :)
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Spawn sack, I have a buddy looking to sell a barely used, mint condition factory 2106. PM me your contact info and I'll put you guys in touch.
Would be worth checking this out! Give 'em a call!
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FFM, as always, thanks for the info :) I can't remember if it was in this thread or another, but for the purposes of using it with a baitcaster for steelhead, coho and the odd spring etc it is the B I should be leaning towards, not the LB right? Based on the specs of the B (8-17 line) this is what I think would be best.
Fishawn, PM sent with email and cell #.
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it is the B I should be leaning towards, not the LB right? Based on the specs of the B (8-17 line) this is what I think would be best.
If you are looking for a factory rod, they never made the 2106LB in a green blank or a factory rod, only the 2106. The LB's were only available as a brown blank
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Look up West Coast Tackle (Brian or Bonnie Ford) they carry lots of new Sage drift rods in both blanks and factory.
Silex-user
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Hi All. Thought I would clarify a few things here regarding Sage Gear.
First, yes Sage Gear is alive and well. Blanks are available through any authorized Sage Dealer. Additionally, I build a "factory" build which is sold through about a dozen Dealers throughout BC. "Factory" is in quotes because it is my build not Sage. This does differ from a custom build however because I actually handle the warranty on these rods as well. The warranty process is simple. You return the rod to any one of my Dealers. They forward it to me and I strive to have the section rebuilt within 5 days. The warranty fee is $60 payable to the store. In most cases, you're back fishing within a week. My rods can be identified with a small decal "Babcock Custom Rods".
Second, my apologies for not having specs and other info out there yet. A website outlining everything Sage Gear is on the horizon. Stay tuned.
Third, someone earlier made reference to the 2106LB not being available anymore. This is correct. However, I am considering bringing this blank back for next Fall. I'm still working with my Dealers on this but it's looking like we probably have enough demand to do this. As for this thread though, I would definately reccomend the CT2106 for a baitcaster over the 2106LB. The 2106LB is more of a centerpin action.
And finally, I will have a booth in Abbotsford this year displaying all my rods and rod building supplies. I will also be putting on some rod building seminars at the show. Hopefully I'll get the chance to speak with some of you then.
Thanks,
Brian
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Wow thanks a lot Brian! These dozen or so dealers throught BC you speak of...could you please tell us which ones are located in the lower mainland? I forget if it was in this thread or another during my research phase, but I believe someone mentioned that Fred's and Searun are the Sage dealers for the L/M.
I would like to price out what a new CT2106 goes for in the store and compare it to two private sales with factory rods I have contacted, one with a brand new 2106B, the other with a barely used 2106B. I am assuming both are built by Sage and not yourself.
Also, let's say I buy a factory rod from one of these private sales, and it breaks. If I bring it to Fred's does it matter that it was not bought there? Would it be sent to you to be rebuilt as a "factory" rod, or back to Sage for them to build the replacement rod?
Two last comments: one it will be awesome wehn that website is up with all the specs on these rods, definitely looking forward to that! Two, this booth you mentioned, will this be at the Outdoors show at Tradex?
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LM Dealers: Fred's, Hatch Match'r, Searun, Berry's, Highwater, Nikka, Westcoast, Pacific Angler
Van Island: Island Outfitters, River Sportsman
A Sage factory rod can be returned to any authorized Sage Dealer for warranty. If it is not one of my rods (ie: doesn't have the Babcock Custom Rods decal) it must go back to Sage. They will process at the factory and return it to the store. There will be a $60 warranty fee for this.
Yes, I'll be at the Tradex show.
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Hi Brian,
I know there was a recent run off 3113lb blanks that are around, but am excited to hear the possibility of a run of 2106lb blanks. As you know they are still very desirable and I would bet the demand is there atleast for a similar limited run to help supply some of the people that have been on the lookout for an unbuilt blank floating around. I would definitely buy one myself for a custom build I have in mind to replace a rod I should have never sold.
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Hi All. Thought I would clarify a few things here regarding Sage Gear.
First, yes Sage Gear is alive and well. Blanks are available through any authorized Sage Dealer. Additionally, I build a "factory" build which is sold through about a dozen Dealers throughout BC. "Factory" is in quotes because it is my build not Sage. This does differ from a custom build however because I actually handle the warranty on these rods as well. The warranty process is simple. You return the rod to any one of my Dealers. They forward it to me and I strive to have the section rebuilt within 5 days. The warranty fee is $60 payable to the store. In most cases, you're back fishing within a week. My rods can be identified with a small decal "Babcock Custom Rods".
Second, my apologies for not having specs and other info out there yet. A website outlining everything Sage Gear is on the horizon. Stay tuned.
Third, someone earlier made reference to the 2106LB not being available anymore. This is correct. However, I am considering bringing this blank back for next Fall. I'm still working with my Dealers on this but it's looking like we probably have enough demand to do this. As for this thread though, I would definately reccomend the CT2106 for a baitcaster over the 2106LB. The 2106LB is more of a centerpin action.
And finally, I will have a booth in Abbotsford this year displaying all my rods and rod building supplies. I will also be putting on some rod building seminars at the show. Hopefully I'll get the chance to speak with some of you then.
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks for the clarity Brian! Getting a rod back in a week is incredible! It took about 6 weeks for me to get my 2016 tip back from Sage. It took several months for my buddy to get his tip back from Sage. I guess I should have waited a couple of years before buying my 2106 until you started building them for Sage! LOL.
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Wow thanks a lot Brian! These dozen or so dealers throught BC you speak of...could you please tell us which ones are located in the lower mainland? I forget if it was in this thread or another during my research phase, but I believe someone mentioned that Fred's and Searun are the Sage dealers for the L/M.
I would like to price out what a new CT2106 goes for in the store and compare it to two private sales with factory rods I have contacted, one with a brand new 2106B, the other with a barely used 2106B. I am assuming both are built by Sage and not yourself.
Also, let's say I buy a factory rod from one of these private sales, and it breaks. If I bring it to Fred's does it matter that it was not bought there? Would it be sent to you to be rebuilt as a "factory" rod, or back to Sage for them to build the replacement rod?
Two last comments: one it will be awesome wehn that website is up with all the specs on these rods, definitely looking forward to that! Two, this booth you mentioned, will this be at the Outdoors show at Tradex?
I recalled seeing them at Fred's for $499.99, but this is going by memory and I cannot confirm this price.
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Well, I guess all that's left is to decide if I want a factory Sage rod, or a "factory" Babcock built Sage rod. I'll chat with the guys next time I'm in Fred's, but I imagine the Babcock rods are built to the same specifications as a factory rod straight from Sage. In other words, they are same rod.
Also I like that if I break a Babcock Sage the turn around time to get it back is way less compared to sending it to Sage.
Can anyone give me a reason to buy an original factory Sage over a Babcock Sage? I suppouse there is the coolness factor than a factory Sage can not be bought in stores any more whereas anyone can buy a Babcock Sage from Fred's etc.
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Can anyone give me a reason to buy an original factory Sage over a Babcock Sage? I suppouse there is the coolness factor than a factory Sage can not be bought in stores any more whereas anyone can buy a Babcock Sage from Fred's etc.
Rod tube and socks ;)
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You can probably find a brown blank used rod while Babcock's are all green.
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I imagine the Babcock rods are built to the same specifications as a factory rod straight from Sage. In other words, they are same rod.
Can anyone give me a reason to buy an original factory Sage over a Babcock Sage?
Same blank, different builds. They are not the same as a factory built Sage gear rods.
I have not looked at the level wind rods, but I did notice a few differences between the 3113M's that are available now and my Sage factory built one. Most notably, the cork was so so and I think the reel seat and buttbox are very ugly on the Babcock sages and the reel seat threads are plastic instead of aluminum. I also hate that the reel seats are down locking, instead of up. Who wants to have their fingers resting on threads instead of cork. As I said, I haven't compared the level wind versions, but personally for the $600 they sell for new, I would much rather find a Sage Factory built version or buy a blank and have it built to your specs. Not meant to offend, but thats my opinion from the ones I have seen.
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Rod tube and socks ;)
I don't get it. Maybe I'm just not hip :o
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You can probably find a brown blank used rod while Babcock's are all green.
I'm sure there are some floating around, but the new and used one I'm interested in are both green. As far as I can recall from posts earlier in this thread and in other threads I've read the brown and green are the same. Just produced at different times. No?
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I don't get it. Maybe I'm just not hip :o
With Sage factory rod you get Sage factory rod tube and Sage rod socks.
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You can get a rod from me identical to the original Sage factory rods if that's what you want. After all, I was the one who originally built the Sage factory rods! The big difference now is that stores can order whatever configuration they want. Uplock, downlock, 4" butt, 6" butt, burl cork, plain cork, ALPS butt Box, Neoprene butt box, Fuji seat, ALPS seat, etc., etc.,...... If you're not in a screaming hurry, any of my dealers will be happy to custom design the rod you want. Usually about a 2 week wait to have built. And no, my rods do not come with a tube but they do come with a sock.
Thanks,
Brian
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Mr. Babcock,
Why did sage decide to go with the titanium guides versus the ceramic guides on their gear rods? Just wandering? I have a few original gear rods, and a GSH graphite II 2106 with the ceramic guides. I feel that the ceramic guides are much smoother for casting power pro lines than with the titanium guides.
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Well, I met up with Fishawn's buddy this morning and am now the proud owner of a factory CT 2106 (8-17 line, green) :D I can't wait to get out there and break it in on a nice steelhead! The rod was a great score, not a mark on it, pretty much brand new, thanks again for that hook up Fishawn :)
I haven't put a reel on it yet but reckon it'll pair up very well with one of my lighter baitcasters like the Currado 301E, Abu 6501C3, or Calcutta 201B.
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I wouldn't pair it up with a 6000 series Abu (not that I don't like them). I personally use my Calcutta 200B, or my Luna 253, with my 2106. This makes the ultimate coho/steelhead set-up for rivers like the Vedder. Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the "Sage club"! Once you use this rod, you won't want to got back to any other! Now go get some steel and give us a report! :D :D :D
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Why not the 6500 C3? I compared specs with this reel to the Calcutta 200B and Currado 300E. The 6500 weights 10.7oz, the 200B 10.1oz and the 300E 10.5oz. So all within a 1/2 oz or so of each other.
I really like the feel of the Currado, fits in my hand perfectly adn is just a pleasure to fish with. This would be my first choice. I rotate through my other reels mostly for kicks, and I do like them all some in more area than othes.
Which do you like better the 200B or 253 Luna? I've never owned a Diawa reel, I'm a Shimano guys when it comes to baitcasters. I've heard from a few guys that the Luna is a beauty reel but not as tough as the Calcuttas and over the years will require more $ invested in servicing, repairs, etc.
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Weight, or mass, isn't everything. In fact, you could make a similar argument over rods! The Calcutta 200B is a smaller reel with higher precision, and will toss out lighter lines and lighter weights much more efficiently than the C3 6500. Think about it. The mechanics are different between the two reels. When you cast a 200B, the levelwind does not move because the spool isn't as wide. This results in a smoother cast, particularly with long distances and light weights, and the reel free spools with ease. Contrast this to a 6500 - the spool is wider, the line guide moves back and forth during the cast - more movement and friction in the reel during the cast = less smooth.
I line my reels as follows:
Calcutta 200B - 10 lb. maxima ultragreen - great for small flows and coho
Luna 253 - 12 lb. maxima ultragreen - my coho/steelhead set-up
My Abu C3 6500 is currently set up with braided line and I use it for bigger flows. Don't get me wrong. I love my C3 - it's a classic. In fact, I've "hot-rodded" this reel, and it's a beauty!
As for the 200B vs. the Luna 253, it's a toss up. I do find that the Luna anti-reverse bearing (roller clutch bearing) started to fail when the weather got really cold, or if any sand or grit got into the reel. I was surprised by this, as I take good care of my gear and never lay it down in the water or on sand/gravel. I had to take the reel apart and clean the ARB, but once I did that the reel worked like it came out of the factory. The Luna is fully machined, and is a very nice reel indeed. The mechanics are similar to the 200B (i.e. no line guide movement on the cast). To be honest, I love them both.
I haven't used a Currado, so I can't comment on it. Anyway, that's my 50 cents worth! Either way, you've got a primo set-up for coho/steelhead!!!
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Ahhh, well that makes sense. Thanks for that info FFM I definitley learned something about reels there :) The level wind does not move on my Currado 301E when casting either, and I notice that it does cast lighter weight set ups better that my other reels where the level wind does move when casting.
The Currado E (not the G, they're crap) reels are VERY nice reels. If you have a chance to try one out you'll likely want to buy one. The 301E is by far my favorite reel I own (my new Galvan R-12 spey reel would be a close 2nd, may move into 1st place when I catch a fish on it, lol!).
I'm thinking of trying Maxima Chamelon for mainline instead of UG. Any thoughts on this? I just like trying new lines to be honest. Others I've heard good things about on this site are: Seaguar Senshi, Berkley Prospec, Rapala Tough, and Suffix Seige. The last three don't interest me much; however, I am a big fan of Seaguar's flourocarbon lines and imagine their mono is good stuff as well. I've only seen Chamelon on center pins - is it decent for level winds?
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Hey Spawn Sack,
Glad it worked out with the rod.
As for line, if you wanted to to try something other than UG, I've been pretty happy with both Stren (which is kinda cool because the purplish hue makes watching your line a bit easier) and P line X-tra strong. I have found the Stren to have a bit more memory than the P line though.
Hope this helps.
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I've been using the P-Line CXX-Xrta strong for mainline for the last year. I like it! IMO deteriorates slower than UG. I changed my mainline for steelhead even through it was probably fine. Fished that line hard for salmon all summer and fall and found myself cutting back above the swivel less often than with UG. Now, I'm not about to do something as stupid as switch main lines (esp one working so well) during steelhead season. But, when salmon fishing starts back up I like to try out new mainlines, new leaders, new knots, new weird flies and jigs I tied, and so on.
I'm curious why noone seems to use Chamelon on their baitcasters, just c-pins. After all, it is more abrasions resistant according to Maxima.
I would try Stren, however I'd try Seaguar's Senshi first as I'm a bit fan of their other fishing lines.
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People use it on their pins because its a real stiff line, probably not the best asset for a baitcaster and terrible for a spinning reel, only one way to find out if you like or not though.