Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Stu on September 23, 2009, 09:28:53 AM
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Could someone please outline the advantages/disadvantages of braided vs mono fishing line?
Obvious is the diameter, but is there anything else?
Thank you.
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For spinning, I've found braided line far superior to mono. It's stronger, limper, and has less "memory"--so that you have fewer tangles caused by loops and twists. It's more expensive, and it's also somewhat harder to tie and cut (clipper's won't do the job). But you'll quickly learn to solve these little problems. Also, because it's not transparent the way mono is, you need to think more about what leader to use (mono or fluorocarbon). A swivel at the end of your PowerPro (or equivalent) lets you change leaders almost effortlessly.
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Can't use braid for Steelhead (although I have never tried) - I would think it would ice up.
For the same lb strength (EG: 30lb), the braid would be much easier to cast as it is much smaller diameter & limper.
You can't use regular knots with braid, however.
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Braid has little to no stretch, mono does stretch a bit..
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Braid has little to no stretch, mono does stretch a bit..
which is actually good if you fish with light leaders.
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if one has a rod and reel set up with a line, and wants to change the line... is there an easy or a proper way to do that?
Whether you're changing mono to braid or simply stronger lines...?
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I think braided lines are really for big game fishing.
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if one has a rod and reel set up with a line, and wants to change the line... is there an easy or a proper way to do that?
Whether you're changing mono to braid or simply stronger lines...?
Just head to your local tackle shop and they can save the line for you(from your reel put on a fly line reel) and then they'll put on the braid. then you get both lines and can easily put it back on.
I switched 2 reels to braid and the one works very well although I haven't fished it yet but everyone else likes it. I have not tried the other but after snagging up and pulling the snag out the line just went and it was under good pressure and the weight came flying back at me. It smoked me right in my knuckles ( some one else had this happen but worse) and almost did some serious damage, and hurt quite a bit. Still hurts typing this out and I'm luckly I didn't break or fracture anything.
So be careful if using mono and pulling on a snag as it can get you in the eye, face below the belt, or worse, the person behind you.
I suspect the braid won't do that and will try tomorrow.
I use power pro 40lb
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I use 50lb Tuff Line Xp on all of my reels (I recently put some 12lb spiderwire on an ultralight spinning reel I have but cannot recommend it as of yet but it casts well). Depending on the water conditions I will use a top shot of varying lenghts of mono (Maxima) or flourocarbon (Gamma) for their translucent ability. When fishing slow gin clear water for easily spooked fish I will make the top shot of mono longer than the entire lenght of my drift. The advantage of having braid underneath in this situation is that it will last for many years as backing while providing good line capacity. When fishing more colored water and or faster flowing water I will tie a blood knot to some mono beneath my float. If I think it is necessary or I have already done so I will color about 10 ft of the braid with a green felt tip marker to camoflouge it. The braid shines because it floats better than mono and even more so than flourocarbon and is visible which makes mending the line on a drift while float fishing easier and since it is so strong losing an expensive float like a drennan is a rarity if the blood knot to the mono is beneath the float. If I am not using a float and tieing a lure directly to my mainline I will either tie it straight to the braid using a Palomar knot or if I think it is necessary I will blood knot some mono or flouro the length of my rod so as not to affect my casting and provide stealth. As mentioned it is thinner therefore allowing the use of smaller reels, it does not stretch which increases sensitvity and makes it easier to pull out of a snag if done properly (take up the slack, wrap the line around a stick a few times and walk/pull backwards) and it does not have memory which makes it last longer and cast better (since it is limp it does not bouce off a spinning reel so the reel can be filled up more to aid in casting as well). Furthermore setting the hook is more efficient with braid because it doesn't stretch. Lots of people shun braid and rumors have been spread that it cuts through other peoples mono but these are just fishermans tales IMO started by those who don't like change.
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Braid puts a lot of strain on your equipment to use no stretch line. Increased wear on your guides, more strain on your rod and reel and leader because of no stretch. Very sensitive though and instant hook sets. I use it for deep (100 feet +) fishing and some bass applications.
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I fish braid on a bunch of reels and different rods. I have some smaller high end spinning reels and running braid on them allows me to use them for all my spin fishing needs in the river. I use a 15-20 turn Albright knot to attach 8+ feet of mono to my braid whcih helps minimise the hi vis nature of braid. The albright casts and reels in through the guides which makes it better than a swivel.
Braid is not more expensive than mono when you consider that a rod that gets used alot will need a new spool of mono evey season. I have had the same braid on my fraser rod for 5 or 6 seasons...that would never happen with mono.
the low stretch is a plus to me (sensitivity) more than a minus (loss of stretch = loss of a shock absorber).
I use a trilene knot for both mono and braid...never had it pull out so the knot aspect isnt that tricky.
can't use braid for steelehad?!? Most steelheads in the Pacific Norht West (ie Oregon and Washington) use braid on spinning reels to float fish jigs...its thin diamter makes it easier to mend/manage. Ever notice how the winds tend to pick up in the afternoon on the vedder? I have seen my buddies float dragged across a run because the wind was bowing and pushing his line, meanwhile my 30lb braid sliced thru the wind with virtually no drag.
One thing I recommend is not tieing your weight directly to braided mainline. Pulling out a snag with 50lb+ braid can damage gears in a baitcaster and it offers up a real chance of snapping a bunch of heavy line off in the river (which ruins a run). instead, attch your weaight (like hollow core lead) with mono to a swivel or surgical tubing.
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Pulling out a snag with 50lb+ braid can damage gears in a baitcaster and it offers up a real chance of snapping a bunch of heavy line off in the river (which ruins a run). instead, attch your weaight (like hollow core lead) with mono to a swivel or surgical tubing.
If you wrap your line around a stick it will not affect your reel when pulling on a snag because the line will be completely slack between the reel and stick if done correctly. This will also help to not break your rod. I once saw a guy reefing on his rod to free himself from a snag to the point he broke his rod in half he asked me if I had scissors to cut his mainline which would of left and enormous amount of line in the run since he had long bombed it on the Fraser. I pulled out my trusty stick (smooth, thick and about 6 inches long) wrapped the line around it a few times and easily pulled out the snag retrieving his gear as well! The trick to help save your gear is to reel in any slack before wraping it around the stick and to pull/walk back slowly until it pulls free. Sometimes the braid will snap though if there is a knick in the line.
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i also use braid 80lb when i fish the fraser just for the fact it takes forever to wear through and you can feel everything on the bounce and the hook sets are instant with the no stretch. if i snag i wrap the line around my reel nearest the rod i can get it and then just walk backwards until it lets go. I usually only lose the lead part of the betty but still have the snap swivel LOL
if im fishing anywhere else then i will use 15lb ultragreen for my mainline and then depending on species targeted and water clarity i will use anything from 12lb - 6lb for leader line.
i think thats basically what most guys out there do as well.
I have tried lighter braided line for the fraser but had it fray more so i went with the 80lb cause its also nice on the fingers when battling big fish ;D
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I fish braid on a bunch of reels and different rods. I have some smaller high end spinning reels and running braid on them allows me to use them for all my spin fishing needs in the river. I use a 15-20 turn Albright knot to attach 8+ feet of mono to my braid whcih helps minimise the hi vis nature of braid. The albright casts and reels in through the guides which makes it better than a swivel. 5 or 6 seasons...that would never happen with mono.
My workhorse spinning reel is a little Shimano Sedona 1500. Based upon your experience Gooey, what braided line would you recommend for this reel?
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Wow...the 1500 are small. I would guess 15lb braid would be appropriate based on spool capacity and target species (pinks and coho i assume).
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With that small of a reel, I'd go #15 lb. mono, max. If you hook into a chum or large spring, you'll fry your drag and get spooled. You'll also want to check your manual. This applies for rods also. If you use anything other than your line capacity, consider your warranty void.
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Wow...the 1500 are small. I would guess 15lb braid would be appropriate based on spool capacity and target species (pinks and coho i assume).
Thanks Gooey. Actually I was interested in a specific brand that has performed well on your reels.
Yeah it's a little gaffer. Primarily used for cutthroat off the beach and perfect when paired with my noodly spinnng rod, however it has done service on pinks and smaller coho.
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If I am ever using a level wind I have braid on it that goes for float fishing too, 40 or 30 pound moss green braid is a great line to float fish with. The line floats, instant hook sets, and you rarely lose a float
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With that small of a reel, I'd go #15 lb. mono, max. If you hook into a chum or large spring, you'll fry your drag and get spooled. You'll also want to check your manual. This applies for rods also. If you use anything other than your line capacity, consider your warranty void.
O fer sure, usually I only use 6lb mono on it, 8lb for salmon. For salmon it rarley gets used where there's significant current (and big fish); mainly off the beach and sloughs. My question for Gooey was about braided line recommendations, not mono.
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If you did a search you'd recently fined most people preferred the power pro for a spinning reel.
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IMO Suffix Performance braid is the best for spinning reels but I have yet to find it at a local shop. It is a 6 strand braid instead of 4 so it is actually round so line twist is not a problem and the line is limp which is better for casting with spinning reels. 4 strand braid will work too but the 6 strand stuff is the best. The Suffix braid is high quality like Tuff Line Xp and Power Pro.
http://www.cabelas.com/p-0036973120806a.shtml
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Has anybody used Spiderwire ? Do they fray easily ?
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I prefer braided lines. 2 probelms with it: it digs into the spool if you get a snag and a pain to untangle if you get a birds nest. Mono usually last me one year but baided last few years.
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--changing from cheap general purpose mono to braid huge difference.
--specialty mono such as a lo-stretch usually 12% gives sensitivity for jig and reduces stretch if long line bucktailing.
--for experienced fishers lo-stretch should give slightly less bite feel but better hookup % a trade off.
--ultra thin mono, winter fishing reduced icing
-- IGFA standard rated line...mono or braid ensures that the # test on the label is the break strenth of the line.
-- most manufacturers have some IGFA standard line,,important for line class record but also allows the user to know when the line will break... for example Berkley big game IGFA line 20 lb tested broke at 18.6 lbs where as Berkley big game solar collector 20lb broke at 29.3, Maxima tournament IGFA broke at 18.3 Maxima crystal broke at 22.7, Platypus super100 IGFA 20 lb broke at 19.9 Platypus classic 20 lb at 24.5 Suffix Key lime IGRA 20 lb broke at 21.5 Suffix Siege 20 lb broke at 31.2
--These test results are from actual breaking strenth tests of 73 lines using dry break test from sportfishing mag.com
--water obsorbsion will change some of these but you get the drift it is difficult to compare lines with no standard measure such as IGFA to ensure you are comparing characteristics of similar line. Similar results using braid one labeled 20 lbs actually broke at 51.6 lbs thus someone comparing this to a 20 lb line that broke at 21.1 lbs would have a very different oppinion.
--line can be very useful when fine tuning your equipment for specialty situations as will all equipment there are compromises when general purpose line is used.
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Good luck putting more than 15 # of pressure at the end of any line. Just take your scale, attach line to it, go back 30 feet and crank down and see how much pressure you can put on it. Most likely, you'll only get 10 or 11. So, IMO, it's almost more important to have good abrasion resistance than a huge break strength.
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Thank you for all the info you guys put out, but it made me even more confused about braided line as I was before.
As I understand the major drawback of braided line is the;
- High visibility
- Requires special knot to bind and hard to attach to mono
Advantages;
- low stretch
- smaller diameter
- lasts longer
- easier to cast in wind?
I got a 9ft 6-15lb rod and I put on my cheap spinning reel from my older 6ft rod.
Currently have a 14lb test line on from last year (when I didn't know about this forum yet and didn't catch anything with it) that feels like just too thick for the relatively small reel, do you think it is an overkill?
I checked A&N and they don't seem to have any braided line ??? , In Can. Tire they have some for around $20
Would you switch for braided in this situation or wait till I buy a better reel?
Also the reel i have now come with 2 drums ( i don't know how it is called, the place where wind up the fishing line)
that makes it easier to switch between different fishing lines. Do the better reels come with that feature or am i pretty much stuck with the line I would put on.
Thank you.
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if one has a rod and reel set up with a line, and wants to change the line... is there an easy or a proper way to do that?
Whether you're changing mono to braid or simply stronger lines...?
I saw an interesting setup by a guide I used this summer.
He is switching lines all the time (every night) - probably between left- and right-hand retrieve for American/Canadian clients.
He epoxied a large bolt through a hole in the top of a plastic pop bottle lid (making sure to leave room around the inside edges to put the lid on)
When he wanted to switch the lines, he chucked up the pop bottle in an cordless drill and spun the line off that way.
I used it on a spinning reel and it worked well. I had to dremel some of the epoxy out to get the lid to fit.
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--small spool diameter with fairly stiff line and it will kink up and not cast well. larger diameter spoof for thicker line.
--many reels come with spare spool so you can use same reel in different situations.
--any large arbor reel, old trolling reel from a garage sale will be good enough for spooling off line and changing it. again the advantage of a large arbor is it will not kink up your line as much as if it is tightly wound.
--ensure you dispose of your old line properly... some shops will take old line for recycle..
--abrasion resistance...generally speaking larger diameter is more abrasion resistant however some lines have built in lubricants that will reduce sandpaper effect. the lines I indicated earlier were also tested for abrasion these are all relative tests as differences in temp, water obsorbsion etc. will cause changes
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I checked A&N and they don't seem to have any braided line ???
The downtown store carries them. It's stored in a glass cabinet. Ask the salesman for the key.
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--for experienced fishers lo-stretch should give slightly less bite feel but better hookup % a trade off.
I don't agree with this statement. IMO braid (lo-stretch) provide greater sensitivity to feel bites.
As I understand the major drawback of braided line is the;
- Requires special knot to bind and hard to attach to mono
If you are attaching the braid to mono of a similar diameter then it is not very hard to do. Use a blood knot to attach the lines. Tieing instructions can be found here http://www.steelheader.net/knots/blood_knot.htm .
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The downtown store carries them. It's stored in a glass cabinet. Ask the salesman for the key.
Umm. pretty sure they have it on large spools if you ask.
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braid to mono use a double uni knot wet line well when pulling tight
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I don't agree with this statement. IMO braid (lo-stretch) provide greater sensitivity to feel bites.
If you are attaching the braid to mono of a similar diameter then it is not very hard to do. Use a blood knot to attach the lines. Tieing instructions can be found here http://www.steelheader.net/knots/blood_knot.htm .
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--not sure what you're not agreeing with?
--I was talking about lo-stretch mono vs braid. lo-stretch mono is about 12% much less than most mono line expert users claim that it was not the same sensitivity as braid but that higher % of initial hook up resulted in landed fish.
--I use the lo-stretch line but only have one reel spooled with braid so not as familiar with using braid to make a good comparison using my own personal experience.
--I'm assuming using a good quality sensitive rod with these lines to get the benefit of the braid or lo-stretch--
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I thought you were referring to braid when you said lo-stretch thanks for clearing that up. Now I understand the points you are making.
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I thought you were referring to braid when you said lo-stretch thanks for clearing that up. Now I understand the points you are making.
--cool, I tried to PM but your mail box was full.
--I fish multiple species and methods so I try to use gear with a good tolerance range but for some situations you just have to go with specialty equipment to get the job done.
--Was driving up from Van on the weekend and I guess it was the Vedder hwy crossing, people all over the river. You have a situation where the fish are seeing lots of gear so probably change, not using what everyone else uses, and more finesse fishing required thus specialty fishing lines in order.
--Not trying to convince all of you to come to the interior but last week on the Thompson, the area I was fishing I could only see two other fishers and one of them was my fishing partner.