Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: ja on October 14, 2007, 06:08:33 PM
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I'm just not sure what I'm doing wrong. I was at the Vedder today and was short floating with roe and a bit of wool. I didn't catch anything (3rd time out on the Vedder, same results). I had an 18" 12lb leader, size one hook with a bit of berry's procured roe and a small piece of orange or peach or red wool, all attached through an egg loop not. I varied my float to different depths, most of the time between 2 - 3 1/2 feet to the swivel. My float was pretty much straight up. And got nada! There were fish being caught around me (...one monster, took the poor guy at least 1/2km down river only to get unhooked). Quite frankly, I'm not even sure what to try to do different. Assuming my set up was basically ok, and please correct me if it wasn't, I assume the presentation wasn't getting to the right place/depth. Any suggestions as to what I can try different or do better? I really really don't want to set up a long leader and well..., but I just don't know what I'm missing or doing incorrectly. :-\ Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated!!
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Keep trying! practice makes perfect! you want your presentation about a foot off bottom. Maybe try blades, or different wool combos! vary your presentation if one thing is not working :)
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Don't feel bad as I had the same success today or lack of it. Keep at it and watch for the video with the Master and Rodney that we plan to film this week, it may help some. ;D ;D
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As the Roe Kid said, keep trying. Your rigging seems OK. One tip: Never, ever, ever wear a Maple Leaf cap. ;D
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As the Roe Kid said, keep trying. Your rigging seems OK. One tip: Never, ever, ever wear a Maple Leaf cap. ;D
Watch for it in the video but of course you will not be able too. ;D ;D Too bad as you will miss the much needed tips from The Master. ;D ;D
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Personally I only use wool if I'm fishing with roe sacks to hide the hook. With boraxed/procured roe I use big gobs, spaced splitshot and size one hook making sure the hook is piercing through the bottom of the gob and using some spider thread to wrap is tight to the hook. I find changing the bait frequently is best as I catch most fish on my first or second cast.
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Most of this year I've fished blades, and have gotten used to the very aggressive takes you get fishing that way. My last trip out I spent some time again fishing roe, and had some trouble at first as the bites were alot more sensitive than I expected. A lot of time the float just twitched, and was tough to see as the flow was a bit uneven. I pulled back a bit, not expectign a fish, and was in for a surprise when I had a fish on. After a couple of missed fish I got a lot more agressive about getting on those subtle bites and started hooking up better.
So, I suggest you balance the float so very little is required to pull it under. Keep the line out of the water (straight to the float), and your drifts short. Fish in water of a depth so that your bait is not too far off the bottom. Be prepared to set the hook on any unexpected movements of the float - even if it does not go under.
Like everyone says, practice makes perfect - don't give up.
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Well, just to tell how much I'd like to master this fishing method, I'd...erh...almost...even wear a maple leaf's hat if that did the trick :P The key word there is almost! ;D
But thanks for the replies and suggestions all. You have given me more to watch out for and do (e.g., keeping the line off the water...watch for subtle bites...expected float movements...short drifts...different wool patterns etc.)
I will look out for the vid when it's been completed.
Eagleye mentioned about using "big gobs" of procured roe and having the "hook pierce through the bottom of the gob". That's very different to how I do it. I use "small gobs" in fairly clear water and I attach it through the egg loop knot which is on the hook's upper shank....hmmmm....having the hook go through the roe, that does make sense, would seem the fish would more likely take the hook.
I'll be heading to the Vedder tomorrow morning...around KWB, look forward to running into anyone of you on the flow
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I feed the bait through the hook a couple times then fasten a piece on the top of the gob with the bait loop then wrap with spider thread to get it tight to the hook so when the fish bites he is more likely to hit the hook. I use big gobs cause coho are roe pigs and it will get their attention, in clear water too.
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I also use big gobs. And experience the same as eagleye... Fish on usually on the first few cast...
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Often when guys go way down river its because they dont want anyone to see their hook lodged in the fishes back. Now I am not going to say this is the case for the fisherman you referred to but a good rule of thumb is that if you cant turn a fish its probably not hooked in the mouth. Being new, you may not realize what the guys next to you are doing. There are flossers and snaggers at every hole on the vedder pretty much, so concentrate on your game and don't be lured over to the dark side.
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Thanks for the info Eagleye and charles. If I'm interpreting your description correctly, you're basically covering up the hook with the roe all around it. BTW, I did get to fish today and though I still haven't got one, I did have one on the line for a short while. Guess that's a start ::)
Gooey, your comment is interesting...I was wondering myself why they'd have to go down river so much, though I suspect the guys on the higher ridge may wish to do so to find a spot where they can get to the water to land the fish.
I also noticed that the further you cast, the more line will be slack or on the water. How do you reconcile getting the float and bait to where the fish are most likely if the result is slack line or an unnatural float down river if one needs to keep reeling in slack (with the resultant pressure on the float). Hope that is understandable... :)
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How do you reconcile getting the float and bait to where the fish are most likely if the result is slack line or an unnatural float down river if one needs to keep reeling in slack (with the resultant pressure on the float). Hope that is understandable... :)
That's where a long rod comes in handy.
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I also noticed that the further you cast, the more line will be slack or on the water. How do you reconcile getting the float and bait to where the fish are most likely if the result is slack line or an unnatural float down river if one needs to keep reeling in slack (with the resultant pressure on the float). Hope that is understandable... :)
A longer fishing rod helps. Also sometimes you have to choose between being more effective fishing water close to you, versus not being as effective fishing weater on the other side of the river (that may be better water). Experience helps in making these sort of decisions.
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What lb main line are you using? 15lb mono should be plenty for anything we will find in the vedder...any heavyier and indeed those long casts can be tuff. If you have to fish a run on the other side of the river and you cant get a clean drag free drift, try something that is less effected by an imperfect drift: BLADES. Blades can catch fish on a natural drift just fluttering, with a little bit of thumb pressure on the spool to add action, and on the retrieve...that one always wakes you up! anyhow spinner blades/coho are kinda like a pink worm/steelhead...they are both very forgiving presentations good for beginners.
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Gooey, I'm using 20lb test for my main line. Hmmm, guess a lighter line may alleviate some of the drag on drfits from the longer casts. And using blades ("spinners" I assume?) is something I'd definitely like to try. But I'd really like to learn this short float bait fisihng first. Any suggestions as to a brand, size or description of one I could pick up at the tackle shop?
gman, yes, understand what you're saying...still learning things like trying to read the water. Anything in particular I could observe to aid in my decisions?
Thanks guys for your time you've taken in replying.
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I also noticed that the further you cast, the more line will be slack or on the water. How do you reconcile getting the float and bait to where the fish are most likely if the result is slack line or an unnatural float down river if one needs to keep reeling in slack (with the resultant pressure on the float). Hope that is understandable... :)
Keep the line ABOVE the water. This means the rod tip should be high up. And yes, if you cast upstream, you will want to reel in some line to compensate for slack. As the float passes in front of you and heads downstream, click on the release button and let some line out. Just make sure you thumb the line when you set the hook on a take, as you may end with a nasty birdsnest if you don't.
And, as others have said, keep the weight about a foot off the bottom. In an irregular run, with lots of big boulders, it is perfectly normal to feel the weight touch the bottom occasionally.
Once you have established a "corridor" through which the float travels smoothly, repeat your casts exactly the same every time. If you notice anything unusual (i.e. the float stops, twitches, lies on the side or goes under) set the hook like you mean it. Chances are you are having Mr. Salmon checking it out.
Good luck and keep trying. Sooner or later you will be rewarded.
Cheers, Milo
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JA, after i fish a run with roe, i have been known to cut off my hook and tye on a spinner blade...if you learn to short float roe, a blade can be fished identically.
In terms of the blades or swivel spinners, I simply buy loose colorado and french blades and then make swivel spinners. Start with a barrel swivell and attach a snap swivel to it with a split ring. then add a blade onto the snap swivel and attach a hook to the swivel...it can be drifted or spin casted so its great and very easy to fish.
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The speed of the current and the amount of weight you use will determin what your float is doing. That along with the water clarity will determin the amount of leader. The formula is C + W = F\