Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kelso on November 15, 2006, 01:44:35 PM
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Every weekend for the last 8 weekends in a row and sometimes more than one trip per weekend, I have been out on the flow. I read a comment earlier about guys who let their floats drift down on an angle as opposed to being straight up and down. So my question is, are these guys doing something wrong? In some cases it appears they are and others, not?
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Every weekend for the last 8 weekends in a row and sometimes more than one trip per weekend, I have been out on the flow. I read a comment earlier about guys who let their floats drift down on an angle as opposed to being straight up and down. So my question is, are these guys doing something wrong? In some cases it appears they are and others, not?
Generally speaking if the float is sitting at angle their presentation is most likely dragging along the bottom, if the float is sitting straight up and down this means that the person's presentation is being held off of the bottom.. ie shortfloating , sometimes in a strong current the float will slip on it's side but will quickly correct itself..
hope this helps
TR
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Yeah that helps TR, thanks. Looks like I just vindicated myself as well as I tend to keep my float in the up and down position as often as possible depending on current like you said. I see these guys catching way more fish than me using the bottom dragging / bouncing method. Easy to get miffed about it too.
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It depends which way the float is tilted. Ideally the top of your float should be tipped upriver. This will give your entire setup a similar angle and will allow you to detect a strike easiest. This is because a coho will quite often take the bait and turn down river. If your float is at the angle i suggest your float will shoot under the surface quickest.
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If the float is at an angle infront of it's presentation then it's most likely the weight is hitting the bottom. If the float is behind then it's short float fishing. However, if the float is behind the bait there is usually too much slack so when hook set it has high chance of popping off. But if you reel the line in abit. The float will lean towards the fisher a bit, (don't pull too hard though, just a slight pressure) this will allow better hookset.
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In my opinion, if your float is at an angle, you probably don't have enough weight on and the float is too bouyant in the water. If you weight it more, it will have a more neutral bouyancy and will react to soft strikes better. If you like to fish with a little weight, get a smaller float.
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Thanks FF,
Almost bought a couple of D & E's yesterday but was little unsure of the sizes to get plus they're like $7.00 each but worth a try. I got an Abu Garcia rod / reel combo as my first gear and now after 6 or 7 weekends in a row I personally feel that maybe the action on the rod is a little stiff for my liking. I think it's a medium / heavy which I'll certainly keep but I'm thinking of a Fenwick with a lighter action or maybe a Berkeley or Shimano Convergence medium action with 12 - 20 lb line rating. Whattya think?
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$7.00 each ? Try Army and Navy, they have the foam ones for couple of bucks each. The balsa ones are about $4.00 each.
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I was thinking of the clear plastic ones. Thx.
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Thanks. It was the Drennans I was thinking about. I could see myself running down the river chasing after one of those puppies ...lol
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Use a dink float, weight it properly so about an inch of the top is showing above the water. You will learn how much lead and size of float is needed through trial and error.
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I picked up a Drennan #3 Piker and a 20 gram DNE. I will experiment with these plus the dynk and stealth on Sat / Sun @ The Cheakamus weather permitting. Never been to the Chehalis, might try that as well.
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Ive never had a problem with them not being sensitive enough. When a fish hits they go down, plain and simple. Another reason I like the foam floats is that they hold a lot of weight. I went through a Drennan phase, they are sweet floats, just damn expensive when they shatter and they dont hold a lot of weight. I have not used the D&E floats, so I cant comment on how they perform. Biggest key with any float is that they are weighted properly.
glx
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Kelso
With Dink floats, buy the ones that have the line to be fed straight through the float, not the wrap arounds. Just make sure you have toothpicks to hold it in place. The nice thing with straight through is that if you buy one 6 inchs long, you can cut it back to whatever size you want which you will let conditions dictate for you.
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I use those 89 cent straight through foam floats, and I cut them down so only 1 inch (the red or yellow part for low light) shows above the water line when weighted up. I like option B:
(http://www.fishingwithrod.com/articles/2001/image/0701_01.jpg)
I can't stand the idea of spending 7.00 on a float... Far too cheap for that :)
I'd rather spend the money on a good roll of flourocarbon...
Cheers,
Nicole
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I like the ones in option C as I find the tubing stays in the float better.
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That was me that started the float position topic weeks ago. It seems like people agree that the float shouldn't be at an extreme angle pointing back at the fisher, up and down is drifting the bait not sweeping. BUT- I do agree at times its affective to slow down the drift a bit in a faster flow, and this does slightly angle the float back at the fisher...a little.
This idea is completly different from holding back and dredging across the flow with a float flat across the water. Another thing that seperates a drifter from a flosser is a drifter actually lets the float go downstream without sweeping the bait/wool across at the end of the drift. And no big swoooosh, pulling the float and hook at the end of the drift. -that move drives me nuts.
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Kelso
With Dink floats, buy the ones that have the line to be fed straight through the float, not the wrap arounds. Just make sure you have toothpicks to hold it in place. The nice thing with straight through is that if you buy one 6 inchs long, you can cut it back to whatever size you want which you will let conditions dictate for you.
For dink floats I only use straight throughs if I'm fishing a deep pool/run where casting the float depth of a wrap around would be difficult. By not using a bottom stopper you don't have to cast the line between your weight and float and by using strong braid with a palomar knot means my leader line almost always snaps first so I don't lose many floats. I trim down my wrap arounds and use a needle to make a new hole and thread the piece of tubing through. The dense green ones are my favorite and like Nicole said the ones with bright yellow tops for fishing at dusk.
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Two things I consider when it comes to my float (lots of good suggestions already)
First, that it isnt sitting too high in the water. You'll miss subtle hits this way. Make sure you have enough weight. I like the straight through floats like Nicole showed. If I havnt found a lost drennen, I prefer floats 'C' (5/8" - 3/4" dia) cut to about 5" in length. I use larger floats for heavier/deeper water, but regardless of float length/size have about the top ~1 1/2" - 1" visible.
As to how the float sits, mine sits straight up and down and NEVER on the deep angle or on its side. I, myself, rarely mess with my float position (aside from having little or no slack from rod to float) and dont often hold back on the float favouring the natural drift.
I see these guys catching way more fish than me using the bottom dragging / bouncing method. Easy to get miffed about it too.
In my experience, and this is a general statement, the guys who are deep floating (bottom dragging/bouncing/dredging) and setting the hook frequently are not catching as many as one might think even though they seem to be into fish all the time. A high percentage of these fish are foul hooked, although a small ratio of these fish ever get beached as they often fall off soon into the fight or break off as it's tough to control a 12lb chum hooked in the tail. When it comes down to it, the amount of fish they hook that actually bite are the same if not less than guys who are fishing off the bottom. So to me, they really aren't catching any more fish then anyone else is (unless a fish hooked in the ribs counts for anything.) ::)
Moral of my observations: dont get frustrated. Stick to your guns! ;) That float will be buried soon and you'll be rewarded of that nice heavy flash of a big fish rolling to the surface. ;D
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i use home made balsa wood ones, with a clear varnish on top, they're really sensitive and float high and dry. if ur holding back just a smidge it will point slightly towards u, letting the bait get infront wich means ur drifting right!
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As evident by the wide variety of floats listed in the posts throughout this thread, many different floats work under various conditions...and I find myself switching quite regularly, but I find I don't really stick to one style as such. I like the DNE 20 gram float, it works really well for most of the conditions I find myself fishing in. I also use the balsa floats quite a bit, I really find both of these "sit" in the water very nicely, and I feel the tapered shape these floats have makes for better drifts...I find in some faster water, floats with a uniform thickness don't "sit" as nicely in the faster runs. Having said that, I do like to use the straight through dink floats from time to time, cut down of course to specific sizes of 3,4 and 5 inches.
Case in point for the bouncing bottom/dredging/angled float techniques I see people employing on the river some days, I was fishing the mamquam last week, and found that at the end of the day there were chum moving through a short trench that was about 3-4 Ft deep...Now, I short float religiously, and had been all day, and found that the only way to get into the clean fish moving through was to short float almost to an extreme...I fished that stretch for example with maybe 8" from float to weight...nowhere near the bottom, and I was able to detect bites quite efficiently. I noticed other anglers on the mam, and the squish who were very close if not on the bottom, and couldn't help but notice they were "bumping" fish all through their drifts, and likely were unable to detect fish biting their hook through the mass of hits they were getting on their weight...more often than not, they were setting the hook when they bumped a fish, rather than a legitimate strike.
Now, I hate setting a hook and not finding a fish there...I enjoy the peacefull drift of the float through the water I am working, and if I don't get a strike, I simply and calmly retrieve my line...when a fish strikes I know it, and have no doubts...there is no ambiguity as to whether it was bottom or a bumped fish, I find this much more efficient, as I can tell most others do here also. So, as bug pumper stated...that "big swoooosh"...."drives me nuts"...there is a certain level of impatience and a lack of focus and understanding of the technique that goes along with ripping the water at the end of a drift. It's almost as if the angler is angry they didn't get a strike...there's something wrong with that...
You can feel the subtlest of strikes with the short, straight up and down float...and you'll get more fish that way in my opinion, as hitting a fish on the nose or my friend with your weight is likely to deter a fish from biting more often than not...and like 2:40 said..."a fish hooked in the ribs" doesn't count in my books...
so for me the balsa floats and the DNE's are used most often, but the versatilty of a foamy comes in handy when you just don't have the right float for the job...a little "snip" to the right size, and you're ready to go.
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Good post Ribwart !!
I know what you are saying with the extreme short floating :) when I was drifting jigs on sunday I actually had my float butting up against my weight and then ran about 12 inches to my leader lol.. I hooked four fish on 6 casts with this method, it makes you wonder why people still think they need 5-6 feet of line from weight to float when we were catching fish on almost every drift.. I guess maybe they like dealing with large angry snagged chum ::)
TR
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Ribwart et al.
Thanks for the great information, I've realized that I just need to work on my technique. I use leaders that are 1.5 ' or less in length, an inch or so of pencil lead depending on the conditions and now have in my float repertoire the following: a number of dynk floats; both cut-down versions and non-cutdown, a couple of DNE's in the 20 - 25 gram range, some Stealths and, sorry Nicole, I bit the bullet and bought a Drennan yesterday for $6.99, ouch! All I need is a couple of the balsa wood floats and I'm good to go.
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Hey Kelso, sounds like you have been learning alot lately :) good stuff, just another proof of how invaluble sites like this can be.. good luck on the water and make sure you post lots of pics
TR
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some very good info given! Thanks for sharing guys
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Hey TR, thanks. I am hoping to hit the Cheakamus this weekend but everything is up in the air due to the weather. Totally agree with you, this site has been an invaluable tool for me to learn from and provides a chance to chat with those who are experienced. Pay the $20.00 per year, it's worth it.
Everytime I go out, I see how easy it is for a fellow newbie to pick up all the wrong habits by watching the wrong people. I find myself offering friendly advice on occasion and assume this will continue as I learn more. I stay away from the guys carrying two gaff hooks though ....something wrong with that picture and I have no desire to be part of Saw IV.
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the lower cheak may not be a good option for the weekend. Cheeky creek is completely blown out and there is almost no visibility below the bridge