Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Spawn Sack]

I know it's not time yet but come late November-ish or whenever we decide it's time to shut-er-down until spring, I plan to winterize my outbopard jet motor. It's a Merc 90/65, 2 stroke (2011). Yeah I could just pay a shop to do it but I don't think it'll be that hard so I want to do it myself.

I flipped through the manual after we bought the boat a couple months ago and from what I rememebr you are suppoued to:

-Treat the fuel with stabilizer and run the motor for 10 minutes of so to ensure that the stabilized fuel is througout the fuel system. In addition, I plan to fill the tank right up with ethanol free gas before adding the stabilizer.

-While the motor is running, disconnect the fuel hose, and as the motor is beginning to stall, spray fogging oil in each carb (3). I have heard you don't need to disconnect the fuel hose and can just spray the fogging oil in the carbs until it stalls out???

-Remove each plug and spray fogging oil in each cyclinder, rotate flywheel by hand to ensure everything is coated nicely, and put plugs back in.

So far I'm confortable with this. Possibly a little unsure if I should disconnect the fuel hose (won't pressurized fuel spray everywhere?) before I fog the carbs, or if I should just keep spraying the carbs until the motor stalls out (assuming this will work...I am told it will).

Lastly, in the manual it jsut said to keep the motor upright to let the water drain out.

The boat will be kept outside and, unless there is no point, I would like to flush the cooling sytem with antifreeze.

Assuming this is in fact a best practice, I am wondering...

Should I flush the motor using the hose attachment under the bonnet? I could hook up a short length of hose to the connection, with a funnel on the other end, and pour antifreeze in the funnel and just let gravity run it through. I am guessing the motor should be OFF for this as the funnel method is not pressuized (like when you flush the motor with a pressurized garden hose), so I would be worried about the antifreeze not flowing fast enough.

Or...perhaps pour a few jugs of antifreeze in a tote and submerse the jet in it, start it up and let the antifreeze get sucked up that way?

Appreciate all tips

[canso]

Everything sounds good, don't bother with the anti freeze, all water should drain out in the down position.
I tend to use stabilizer during my last month of fishing since it's usually an abrupt end when launches and finger tips start to freeze.
As for the fuel line, either way but I was told not to run a multi cylinder 2 stroke out of fuel, since the oil in the fuel is what lubricates the bottom end. The stabilizer should be all threw your fuel system.

Your fogging steps are bang on. Do it at home on the hose, your exhaust will spit out oil. Same at the beginning of the season, start your boat at home it's a big cloud of smoke and oil. Drives me nuts when I see this at the boat launch.

[Spawn Sack]

Thanks Canso.

Just so I'm clear...

So with the motor running if you fog the crap out of the carbs it will stall out on its own without having to disconnect the fuel supply? I need to take a closer look at the fuel line on my motor. It doesn't look like it has a "quick connect" like you'd see on a small outboard with protable fuel tank. Don't really want to disconnect a clamp and have pressurized fuel spray everywhere

Aside from that, I like the idea of starting to run stabilized fuel now as if you suddenly decide to shut-er-down there is already stabilized fuel throughout the system.

Also thanks for tip to start boat at home for this, I didn't know that.

[canso]

I wouldn't bother with the fuel line. I'm double fisted with spray cans trying to kill the motor, sometimes I can kill it, most times I just shut the key off, there will be lots of residual in the crank case regardless.
Don't rev. Your engine when connected to water in your driveway, remember your jet is always spinning, there is no gear box for neutral.
When starting on land you should only need key pushes no high idle lever. Have you started it on land before?

[Easywater]

There should be a fogging port on your outboard.
It will look like a tire valve attached to your choke inside the motor.

Undo the cap, connected the fogging can and let her rip.

[Spawn Sack]

I wouldn't bother with the fuel line. I'm double fisted with spray cans trying to kill the motor, sometimes I can kill it, most times I just shut the key off, there will be lots of residual in the crank case regardless.
Don't rev. Your engine when connected to water in your driveway, remember your jet is always spinning, there is no gear box for neutral.
When starting on land you should only need key pushes no high idle lever. Have you started it on land before?

Good tips. I have started it on land a few times to try out the flushing attachment. I did have the fast idel up but dropped it as soon as the motor was running smooth. Next time I'll try it without the f/i.

There should be a fogging port on your outboard.
It will look like a tire valve attached to your choke inside the motor.

Undo the cap, connected the fogging can and let her rip.

Don't think my motor has one. Don't see one and nothing in the manual about this either.