Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: halcyonguitars on May 27, 2019, 04:22:47 PM
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I've had the canoe out enough times to realize it is not an ideal fishing vessel.
I see 16-18' bayliners etc in my price range all the time, but it's a pretty big leap from a canoe.
So I'm thinking a 12-14 Lund type tinny on a trailer is a better next step. It would also fit in the garage which makes it more realistic for this city slicker.
However, I don't think there's room in my alley to back it in and out, so I'd like to know, can a tinny on a trailer be manually maneuvered by two extraordinarily ordinary people?
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yes
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Thanks! I figured as much but it's good to confirm...
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Get a 14', you'l appreciate the extra two feet.
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Thanks, I'll keep that in mind...
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I have a welded aluminum 12' on a trailer and I can man handle it by myself without much sweat. I bought a Highliner trailer for my boat through Bridgeview and I am very happy with it. Came with bearing buddies and it tracks as straight as an arrow behind me.
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Purchase a swing jack for the front of the trailer and you will only need 1 person to roll the tinny no problem .
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Thanks for the tips!
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As others have said pushing around a 12ish foot aluminum "Lund style" boat is no big deal at all. Even if it does not have a swing jack (wheel that drops down that you can raise or lower) it should be no problem to pick up the tongue and move it around. When I lived in a town house I had a 12 foot aluminum on a trailer. It was too tricky to back it into the garage so I would just unhitch it and push into the garage and rest the tongue on a milk crate.
I am not an expert here but I've owned a few tin boats and trailers so here it goes:
-decent used 12ish foot boat on a trailer should run you 1000-1500 this time of year. A bit more or less if it is really new or really old.
-if you know nothing about boats and trailers it would be best to bring someone who does before you hand over cash.
-plug the trailer in and make sure the lights work. Fixable if they don't, but you should get $ off if the wiring/lights are screwy.
-have someone check over the wheel bearings. if they are noisy/loose that is a safety issues and more $ you will have to spend to make it road worthy. you do NOT want to be that person on the side of the road with a trailer with a blown wheel bearing.
-if it comes with a motor great, just make sure it runs well if it is gas powered. if electric that is fine just make sure the battery is good. Anything more than 5 years old it's probably no good. New deep cycle trolling battery about $200.
I would avoid anything super old. Boat or trailer. Unless your budget is low in the $1000 range. I would save your $ and buy something newer, especially the trailer. Older boat is fine if it not beat up.
Good to buy off someone you know who you know looks after their stuff, or at least bring someone knowledgeable when you go to look at one you might buy.
There is a Lowe 1236 boat, trailer and motor on facebook marketplace Abbotsford asking $2500. Looks pretty good!
Flat bottom will be more stable laterally. Better for standing up in and moving around. Good for small lakes with minimal waves. However they such when the waves pick up. A Lund style v-hull will cut waves much better but a bit more tippy laterally if you want to stand up or move around the boat.
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--folding front tongue on the trailer will get a few extra feet of boat in a garage if that is the issue. Once you go to a trailer you may as well get the benefit of a bigger boat. If not go with a lighter flat bottom Jon boat for stability...especially if you are going on lakes that you used the canoe. The other option is good inflatable.
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Thanks, just researching right now, probably buy next spring, budget 2500-3500 all in. Have trawling motor, fish finder, life jackets etc already.
Space in garage not an issue with a tinny.
Can you do things like fish estuaries or go crabbing or be on the Fraser or fish Harrison with a v hull? I'm leaning to a v hull presently in hopes of greater versatility...
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--its simple...but its not that simple. There are many types of "V" and modified "V" a lot depends on the type of waves and speed you want to travel on or in them. you can get boats with flatter section at back or even a tunnel to run on plane in smooth water but trim down to plow the V in chop. waves very different on river, lake ocean and estuary. You're going through the process n the right way...you have to consider where you most often want to use the boat then how specialized you want to make it when you run at speed, anchor or troll. The biggest thing is to try some different designs in areas you want to use them in. They may not meet your expectations or have some surprises. The big thing is you have to choose the one the suits you. Once you choose one, stay withing the safe limits of the boat and don't push it until you feel confident in it.
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I'll be a most cautious operator for sure. Not sure how one would go about testing different boats. I rented a big flat bottom jon boat at Tunkwa, and it was amazing for that application, I suspect tug waves at Ambleside would make me like it less...
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When you start looking on going out in the Fraser and the ocean it’s nice to have alest a 25hp motor and a decent size tiny.
I have seen guys do it with less.
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--I never owned one, but like the look of stryker boats. A couple of people I know have the small 10 ft which they use with electric motors for still water fishing so haven't seen the bigger models with gas or the hunter models with reinforced bottom for river transport.
--I've used 12 ft tin on upper Thompson so no rapids or big waves but the bigger rivers don't have that skinny water where you need a jet, North Thompson or below Savana a different story for sure. Was in Alberni harbor in same 12 ft when the loaded fishing boats came in...big waves so hanging on with both hands...was not comfortable but for sure a Jon boat less freeboard would be worse. I have a 12ft Durolite...its not that lite though can car top it on a truck.
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I'd really look at an Ungava. Here's a great package:
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/pml/boa/d/coquitlam-princecraft-ungava-12-trailer/6900364202.html
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I'd really look at an Ungava. Here's a great package:
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/pml/boa/d/coquitlam-princecraft-ungava-12-trailer/6900364202.html
Nice fishing machine!
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--friend has an ungava great boat, good freeboard and stable. not sure what this one is like inside but his has the split bench at the back which allows you to stand and cast close to the motor also easy to move stuff around.
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That does look nice!
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The Ungavas are NICE vhull boats. Expensive. I think just the boat new is pushing 3 grand. I think one like in the add or similar would be great. That 9.9 would push it along great in lakes and river water with very little current (Vedder canal and similar). I would NOT be taking it out in the main flow of the Fraser. Likely not enough power to go upstream. I recall last year sockeye fishing saw a LOT of people out in little 12 foot boats with a 9.9 or similar for power. Barely enough power to move the boat upstream and boat loaded to the balls and hardly any free-board remaining. I just shook my head - death trap waiting to happen.
I think a combo like the one posted is a great first tin boat. Can sell it whenever you want and lose little if any money. Personally I would not keep that motor if it is a 2-stroke and you plan to troll with it. Too stinky. If you plan to just zip around and not troll then 2-stroke is fine
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I've got an electric trolling motor, not sure what strength but I assume it would still push around a tinny on a lake in good weather?
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--even the smallest electric should push this ok in good weather.
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I've got an electric trolling motor, not sure what strength but I assume it would still push around a tinny on a lake in good weather?
The motor is likely fine, it the battery you need to be careful of. If in doubt, recycle it and buy a new one. Obviously you will also need a charger to charge it back up after a day's fishing. the Napa deep cycle battery I have is good for a day's fishing (trolling). However you need to be careful going too far down a lake. If a strong head wind picks up you will be lucky if that electric will move your boat into the wind at all at max throttle.
How I roll most of the time is I use our electric only on small lakes. Usually these lakes are too small for the wind to pick up, and if something does "happen" (battery dies) at least you will not have to row crazy far. On bigger lakes I have an 8hp 4stroke outboard that I take and leave the electric at home.
I would recommend carrying OARS not just paddles, especially if you are using an electric motor. If you end up having to manually propel your watercraft the oars will help you cover water in a reasonable time. Paddles are better than nothing but it will be slow going.
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Good tips! My battery is brands new, used only once and promptly recharged...
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I just leave my deep cycle trolling battery on a trickle charger when not in use, I think it's 0.75 amps. It's "smart" (pretty much all modern ones are) and it will kick off when the battery is charged, then when the charge drops below fully charged it will kick back on. If you don't have one like this I'd get one, only about 50 bucks at Crappy Tire or similar store/online.
Battery should be good for about 5 years. After that just recycle and get a new one. I tried to push it with my last deep cycle and kept using it past 5 years. One day I was only about 2 hours into trolling a small interior lake when the battery abruptly died. I had oars but it still took me about an hour to row to shore as a head wind has picked up. Lesson learned, don't try to push your deep cycle battery for too long. It's not like a car battery that you can just jump start and it'll get you through the day. If your d/c battery croaks you are SOL for the day. If you are out camping and have no way to recharge it with 110v power then buy a solar trickle charger. Spend a bit more $ and get one that'll charge the battery in decent time. Just leave it on the battery in the boat (I'm told it's fine to have it on the battery while discharging it when fishing) and point it right at the sun as much as possible. Should keep your battery topped up enough to fish for multiple days. When you get home toss it on the plug in charger.
Also while on the water you need a way to check your battery and make sure it has decent juice. If your motor is not too old it should have a battery tester button on it. On my Minn Kota there is a button on top by the throttle. Quick and easy to check what % the battery is at.
Last thought: I'd wait for a nice set up that has most of what you want. Seats, rod holders, and so on. This stuff is EXPENSIVE to buy new if you buy decent stuff. If the previous owner already bought all this stuff yes it will cost more than one that is bare bones, but not too much more, and it'll save you having to buy it all and install it on the boat. To put it in perspective on my new 12 foot boat I bought last year the seat mounts, seats, rod holders, oar locks, and oars ran me about $750 and I had to install it all myself. I added basic (hand crank) Scotty downriggers and a few cannon balls and that was another $400. Pay a bit more purchase price and find a guy that has already bought and installed all this gear.
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Have the smart charger already, bought it with the battery. My motor predates any onboard tester by a good few years I reckon, can't even get a manual for it, lol!
Good thoughts about the package deal, that's what I've been looking for. Seen some real good deals but I must make myself wait til next year...
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Haha right on. Just a thought...the new Minn Kota with "maximizer" technology get a lot more run time/hours out of a battery. I can't tell you how the technology works, but I am told they use a lot less "juice" than a normal electric motor. If you are going to go all electric then you may want to consider upgrading your motor. Just something to think about. However, if your current set up works for you and you have confidence that it will not leave you stranded then by all means stick with it.
I personally would aim at having both gas and electric. Gas for bigger lakes where you want to venture further away from shore than you would comfortably with your electric. If a head wind picks up you'll have enough power to get back to the launch. Electric motor for small lakes especially those that are electric only. I have tried running both motors on my transom. Personally I find it too much of a bother having a fuel tank and battery in the boat, and two motors on the transom. I just pick one or the other depending on which lake I'm going to.
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Yeah, electric motors are pretty cheap anyway. But first, the boat!
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just bought a lund ssv 14 from quantum marine last year its great got 30 hp on it had in the chuck and many lakes seems to work pretty good electric motor pushs it around not bad