Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Author Topic: Soft beads/Hard beads vs Jensen Egg. New school technology or "illusion" of new  (Read 3606 times)

DanTfisherman

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 123

So, was thinking about a post I just made, and thought it would likely be a better idea to make a new thread.  Fascinated with all the discussion around trout beads, but really wonder if this is a "new thing".

So, my other post stated:
"Don't want to wreck the theme of "water conditions" on this theme, but having used Jensen eggs in the 90's, and now reading about soft beads and hard beads and their "success", are these beads any different than a single magnum Jensen egg?  Thoughts?  Why all the fancy knots to tie them?  Could you use a bobber stopper 3 fingers up from the hook, then tie a thin piece of woll above it as we used to do with the Jensen Egg?  Trying to figure out all the big deal about the "new" salmon bead which to me, sounds like old school technology (Jensen Egg), with a few tweaks."

Are soft beads and hard beads really a new thing?  As an old dog wanting to learn new tricks, I went to Youtube to watch up on some things and try to learn.

Found lots of videos, this one being a good example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAvKlCX-yLU

At the end, all I could conclude is this is not really a new thing.  I think others and I were doing the same thing 25 years ago with other items, which had been around for quite some time, and while colors and materials may have improved, I do not think t is new.  It seems a bunch of young guys feel they have discovered something new and revolutionary, and thus, they and beads are cutting edge and a new secret weapon with a new skill set.

I believe I have used both "hard beads" and "soft beads" over 25 years ago, although they were slightly different.

For me, a "soft bead" would be tied as follows.  Hook tied with a bait loop.  From here, a small translucent plastic bead in red or orange set above this.  From here, a silver metallic sequin set above the bead, then a jensen egg strung onto the line and color and size would vary based on water conditions, from here, a thin piece of yarn in chartruse, peach, or cream would be tied on and draped over the egg.  This yarn would hold the egg in place, give the egg a mottled look in the water, give motion and flutter to the presentation, and could act to get caught in the fishes teeth, if you believed in that kind of thing.

For me, a "hard bead" would be a corkie or a spin-n-glo.  Once again, would start with the hook.  Tie on a bait loop again, from here, small translucent plastic bead, then place the corkie or spin-n-glo above this, often choosing to use orange scale.  On occasion, with corkie, the thin yarn may or may not be used.  Also, on occasion, a small piece of roe may be put in the bait loop below the corkie, etc.

I should mention that later, I began to use small brass, gold, or silver beads like used for fly-tying instead of translucent bead if I wanted a little extra weight to keep the item down in the water column.

So, realistically, the new and improved beads seem like variants of this, and not really new.  The idea of pegging is maybe new?, but has been used when trout fishing for a number of years.  I have heard discussion about pegging three fingers up to prevent the "hinging/leverage" that the beads do, and thus give fish an advantage, but really wonder if this is a thing.  Pegging, tying special knots, all the effort to get the bead away from the hook seems gimmicky.

When fishing corkies, spin-n-glows, BC orange Gooey bobs, Jensen Eggs, etc, I do not remember loosing many fish due to this leverage effect, and do not think we discussed it as a thing.  With the way it is set up just above the hook, if it was an issue, the items can move or slide freely up the line.  Pegging and tying special knots to set the beads in place seems un-necessary.  If anything, a bobber stopper and a sequin three fingers up, along with maybe a thin piece of yarn seems like a better set up if you solidly believe it needs to be away from the hook.

If the hinging/leverage was a thing, then for sure, using giant lures such as Coho's Crocodiles, and other metal made by Luhr Jensen and Gibbs give the fish a huge advantage.  That being said, some days this year I am at 50% landing percentage of the fish I hook.  I find most fish I hook with lures are lost within the first 3 seconds, or else they are on.  Maybe lures do give fish an advantage and that "hinging/leverage" advantage.  That being said, take it as it is.

On a final note, I am not sure whether people are pegging or placing the beads away from the hook due to being worried about the fish swallowing the bead and deep hook sets.  If this is the case, I would be interested in hearing this aspect.  In all my years fishing for salmon and steelhead using Corkies, Spin-N-glows, Jensen Eggs, Gooey bobs, etc, I do not remember deep hooking fish and worrying about them not making it.

Just my thoughts.  Maybe we think too much on the beads and how to use them best?  Seems like it is being made to be something new and more complex than it needs to be

Dano
« Last Edit: October 16, 2021, 11:54:50 AM by DanTfisherman »
Logged

hammer

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 142

All very true....
I used and continue to use BC orange or cerise Jensen eggs since the early 90's. I went though the dilemma of the changes to BC orange colour. The beads soft and hard seem to be more effective on river salmon now....where I used the exclusively use them for trout and steelhead. Being a metal and flies guy for freshwater coho....I am interested in trying the beads more...I that the modern beads are more effective...but I can't tell you why because the core concept is exactly the same
Logged

milo

  • Old Timer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2106

Quote
..but reading that most people like a 14-18 inch leader, how much difference could neutral buoyancy make, vs corkie or Jensen Egg?
I'm quoting you from the other thread Dan.

The neutral buoyancy factor is actually the great thing about these new beads. Whether your leader is 1 foot or 3, the new beads will stay at the depth your weight is set.  The advantage to this is that the bead will drift before your weight at the same depth in the water column your weight is, no more, no less, creating less drag and making the presentation appear more natural.

But yes, we fished the so called artificial beads and eggs many moons ago, with quite some success, I may add. Through trial and arror, we learned to make the necessary adjustments to our weight to compensate for old-style beads' lack or excess of buoyancy.
The new soft beads make it much easier. Set the desired depth and you are good to go. No guessing required.
Logged

ja

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 100

Great thread Dan. Thanks for starting it. Also, appreciate the info from Milo and hammer. I've never used beads, so I have a couple of questions. Do you fish with the beads in the same way and in the same type of water/current as roe? Also, the salesman at a local tackle shop said to keep the bead 3 finger width from the hook and strongly recommended using a 3-foot leader. I didn't understand this long leader length and was not too keen on this as I do not floss. So what would be an appropriate leader length? Cheers.
Logged

milo

  • Old Timer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2106

Great thread Dan. Thanks for starting it. Also, appreciate the info from Milo and hammer. I've never used beads, so I have a couple of questions. Do you fish with the beads in the same way and in the same type of water/current as roe? Also, the salesman at a local tackle shop said to keep the bead 3 finger width from the hook and strongly recommended using a 3-foot leader. I didn't understand this long leader length and was not too keen on this as I do not floss. So what would be an appropriate leader length? Cheers.

Yes, fish it same as roe.
Three fingers distance from hook is a-OK, unless you are targetting the big boys, then I'd add an extra half inch. Leader length depends on water conditions. Gin clear water- 2.5-3-foot leader is OK. In cloudy water go shorter. Also, a shorter leader helps detect light strikes better. I usually go with 2 feet for most applications.
Logged

DanTfisherman

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 123

My leader length tends to be about 30".
I use this for most of my fishing, be it rubber worms, Colorado blades, gooey bobs, Jensen eggs, etc.
It seems like a reasonable length for me, and moves my presentation away from my weight.
Allows the blade a good action as well.

I think 2 to 3 feet is a reasonable length, and if your intent is not to floss, that is the key.
I think a lot of flossing deals with depths too long from the float to the weight, and then from here, dragging and swinging the presentation in a way to sweep the fish intentionally.

I think all of us must get the odd fish that is flossed from time to time.  If you are catching lots of fish in running water, it has to happen.
To me, it is the planning or the intent that is key in my eyes.

Other thing I should mention is I still use Pips Hook and leader dispensers.  Over the course of a day, I will cut off different presentations and store them away.  Start with a leader that is "just right, and after some snips and changes, the leader is then too short.

Dano
« Last Edit: October 16, 2021, 09:17:12 PM by DanTfisherman »
Logged

DanL

  • Old Timer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 654

The neutral buoyancy factor is actually the great thing about these new beads. Whether your leader is 1 foot or 3, the new beads will stay at the depth your weight is set.  The advantage to this is that the bead will drift before your weight at the same depth in the water column your weight is, no more, no less, creating less drag and making the presentation appear more natural.

I dont think saying the bead is always exactly at the level of your weight is always true. They might by close to neutral, but the beads I throw into a cup of water slowly sink. Besides, once you add the hook, anything true neutral buoyant will definitely sink. You can't account for all the different size hooks people use and still be neutral buoyant. If you drop your rigged bead in the water beside you, I think you'll find that it sinks (slowly). Though I have not tried every variety of bead so your experiences could be different.

The slower and longer the drift, the more the dead drifted bead will sink. If one holds back or swings the bead, the more its likely at the weight level. Last couple years, I've seen beads used successfully in water so slow, I'm sure the bead is basically hanging straight down.

I suspect you're right w.r.t less drag. The density of beads allow them to be worked by currents in ways we cant feel.

On a final note, I am not sure whether people are pegging or placing the beads away from the hook due to being worried about the fish swallowing the bead and deep hook sets.  If this is the case, I would be interested in hearing this aspect.  In all my years fishing for salmon and steelhead using Corkies, Spin-N-glows, Jensen Eggs, Gooey bobs, etc, I do not remember deep hooking fish and worrying about them not making it.

The pegging of trout beads definitely helps prevent deep hooks for fish that actually feeding like trout bulls etc. But for salmon, pegging of beads is (IMHO) to have a gap so the bead is less likely to obstruct the hook during hook sets. Similar to how some will use trailer or spacers on their spoon hooks to improve hookup ratio. The new soft beads can be much larger than any trout bead or jensen egg, and cant get compressed as much as a piece of roe.

Whats also new with the soft beads of the last few years is the size and colors. Jensen eggs never had that variety, and back in the day we didnt have a good way of pegging it like we do now with stops.

Also the perfect spherical shape is probably an important triggering factor. If you took a bead and made it into some weird shape, like a senko worm, would it still be as effective? One would speculate not, even though it has the exact same amount of material.

I think all of us must get the odd fish that is flossed from time to time.  If you are catching lots of fish in running water, it has to happen.
To me, it is the planning or the intent that is key in my eyes.

That's the other thing about beads. Due to the gap, a lot of them are corner-jaw hooked or otherwise outside the mouth. It looks like a floss, and really cant be distinguished. Though as you mention, the shorter depths and leader lengths makes it less likely. Also, if one finds that bead color makes any difference at all in success rates, then that difference cannot be due to flossing.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 08:15:54 AM by DanL »
Logged

ja

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 100

Thanks for all the information guys. Very thoughtful comments.
Logged

RalphH

  • Old Timer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4872
    • Initating Salmon Fry

Quote
I dont think saying the bead is always exactly at the level of your weight is always true. They might by close to neutral, but the beads I throw into a cup of water slowly sink. Besides, once you add the hook, anything true neutral buoyant will definitely sink.

of course river currents not only move downstream but up and down in the water column as well. Neither is water velocity uniform in the water column. It's generally slower at the bottom and near the banks and fastest close to the surface in the center of the water flow. Water in a moving river actually slides upon layers of water below it creating stratified currents top to bottom.

Point is how any lure or bait sinks depends on a variety of factors such as it's relative buoyancy and the extent it is subject to up welling currents. I have seen both fly and sinking line pushed up to just inches below the surface by up welling currents. I was always under the impression that was the reason to keep leaders short when float fishing. 
Logged
"Two things are infinite, the Universe and human stupidity... though I am not completely sure about the Universe" ...Einstein as related to F.S. Perls.

spoiler

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 229

I was using Jensen eggs in the late 1960's and still do so there's  nothing new about using single eggs for salmon and Steelhead.
Caught my very first Vedder River Steelhead on a gooey bob in the late 1960's.
I started using trout beads about 15 years ago before they got so popular.
I think there has been some very good marketing on soft beads over the last couple years which has contributed to their popularity
Logged

stsfisher

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 419

Same thing in my opinion, but those soft bead manufactures sure hit the marketing bonanza at the right time.
Logged

wildmanyeah

  • Old Timer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2021

I watched a guy beading for coho in a small system catch cutthroat after cutthroat, felt bad for the little guys.
Logged

Silex-user

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 247

Back about 20 years ago, I made and cut a peachy and light pink yarn into shape of egg and put it on my No# 4 hook using bait loop. Caught lots of coho in the Chehalis river back in the good old days.


Silex-user
Logged