Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: SteelheadAdict on June 29, 2014, 01:06:40 PM
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Whats your setup for float fishing
For the past 2 years i have been fishing a 3113 and a hardy silex i am super happy with it and have not had a problem landing reds or whites with it i generaly fish 15lb maxima ultragreen mainline and 12lb leader about 16 to 18" of it to a 1 or 1/0 hook depending on the baits iam fishing. i am usualy fishing a 3ogram DNE float. I have thought about fishing 20lb mainline any thought's on it
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I use 20 pound mainline and 15 pound flourocarbon lead for almost everything now on my pin. People may think it sounds overkill, but I land fish quickly and still get a hell of a good fight out of them without stressing them to the max. It gives me the ability to turn fish if they are trying to go where I don't want them to as well... can put the breaks on without having to worry about breaking off. The 15 pound flouro I use is around the same diameter as 10 pound test, so it doesn't spook fish.
I started running 20 pound main and 15 lead when I started fishing high gradient canyon rivers for steelhead which made me turn to heavier line so they didn't leave the run and go down cascades/waterfalls, etc. It seems to work well for springs too, allows me to move them off bottom, and some of the places I fish for them, it isn't possible to chase if they leave the run, so once again I can put the breaks on.
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Assuming you have a 3113MB, nothing wrong with the setup you describe though going a bit heavier on the line would not be a bad idea IMHO. A 3113LB would seem too light for springs IMHO. My dedicated spring/chum rod is rated 17-25lb and I go 15 or even 17 for leader. These fish are no weaklings, so match the gear to the beast.
If 20lb mainline doesnt affect your casting distance too much go for it. Your leader will remain your weak point anyways but 20lb will buy you a lot more abrasion resistance and the silex has big line capacity.
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yes an mb i think i will go up to 20lb mainline as i do have a large line capacity and 15lb floro may not be a bad idea
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Sorry noob here but what happens if you run into a spring that weighs more then you line rating? ( ie 30 lbs spring vs 20lb line) never fished springs before hopefully will be able to land one this year.im currently equipped with a 25lb mono/floro coated main line was told I'm under gunned.
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im currently equipped with a 25lb mono/floro coated main line was told I'm under gunned.
If you are using 20 lb leader and match up with your currently equipped 25lb main line. You can land a 40 lb spring easy. So you are not under gunned...
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If you are using 20 lb leader and match up with your currently equipped 25lb main line. You can land a 40 lb spring easy. So you are not under gunned...
What happens if the fish more then 25lbs? Will my line snap? I'm guessing you keep your drag setting low?
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U shouldnt have a problem landing a 25lb spring at all with even 15lb, 25lb mainline is great u are equipt for what ever spring decides to eat your bait
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What happens if the fish more then 25lbs? Will my line snap? I'm guessing you keep your drag setting low?
Is time to play with the fish ;) :D
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Is time to play with the fish ;) :D
Hehe 8) bring on the fish and let the learning begin thanks for the info
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Sorry noob here but what happens if you run into a spring that weighs more then you line rating? ( ie 30 lbs spring vs 20lb line) never fished springs before hopefully will be able to land one this year.im currently equipped with a 25lb mono/floro coated main line was told I'm under gunned.
You're not undergunned for sure otherwise how would you fish for steelhead with noodle rod rated 2-8 lb.If I am correct the record for steely is 39 LB.
A friend of mine landed 44 lb spring on 20 lb main line. Line rating alone doesn't tell the whole story. You have your rod flexibility to add to it.
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You're not undergunned for sure otherwise how would you fish for steelhead with noodle rod rated 2-8 lb.If I am correct the record for steely is 39 LB.
A friend of mine landed 44 lb spring on 20 lb main line. Line rating alone doesn't tell the whole story. You have your rod flexibility to add to it.
What line rating should the rod be? I have a 12-25lb 10'6.
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What line rating should the rod be? I have a 12-25lb 10'6.
You can use your rod to pull out big springs from Fraser or Thompson river with no problem.
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(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb369/WAfishboy/317734_2558300120595_1302748411_n.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/WAfishboy/media/317734_2558300120595_1302748411_n.jpg.html)
This 40 pound spring was landed on a 12 lb ultragreen leader in fast, high water. A 15 lb leader is plenty heavy for any fish in the Vedder/Chilliwack.
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I've landed 15+ pound springs on 6 pound test leader when fishing coho in completely slack side channels float fishing roe.
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I use 20 pound mainline and 15 pound flourocarbon lead for almost everything now on my pin. People may think it sounds overkill, but I land fish quickly and still get a hell of a good fight out of them without stressing them to the max. It gives me the ability to turn fish if they are trying to go where I don't want them to as well... can put the breaks on without having to worry about breaking off. The 15 pound flouro I use is around the same diameter as 10 pound test, so it doesn't spook fish.
I started running 20 pound main and 15 lead when I started fishing high gradient canyon rivers for steelhead which made me turn to heavier line so they didn't leave the run and go down cascades/waterfalls, etc. It seems to work well for springs too, allows me to move them off bottom, and some of the places I fish for them, it isn't possible to chase if they leave the run, so once again I can put the breaks on.
I use 15 lb Seaguar fluorocarbon for leader in places I want to turn the fish too. But I don't know if my 15 lb Seaugar is as thin as 10 lb mono. If you use a different brand, can you recommend the name?
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I works on the same principle as if I were to tie a rope and weight around you ankle and let you drag it around all day. Eventually you will get tired and lay down. Then I bonk you on the head with a big club. Fish get tired from making them work harder than they are used to working. They float in water and a heavy fish can be pulled by a much lighter line than would be needed to pull them onto the shore. That is why so many fish are lost when trying to land them. Choose a place to land them where the current works to your advantage rather than against you. You might have to follow a big salmon down the river until you find the ideal place to bring them to shore. If you are in a boat then you need a net.
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What line rating should the rod be? I have a 12-25lb 10'6.
That is perfectly all right. As other said 15 lb leader will give plenty of pull power. Just make sure ,if using levelwind, to adjust properly drag .I do it to about 80% of leader rating.
Look, I pulled 7 lb rainbows using 2lb leaders with ultra light rod if it can help you.
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That is perfectly all right. As other said 15 lb leader will give plenty of pull power. Just make sure ,if using levelwind, to adjust properly drag .I do it to about 80% of leader rating.
Look, I pulled 7 lb rainbows using 2lb leaders with ultra light rod if it can help you.
Thanks for the tip.good thing you mention adjust drag to leader rating, I would of adjusted to main line rating like a rookie and forgot about the lead.just curious at what point is a set up overkill?How hard do springs fight compared to chums?
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How hard do springs fight compared to chums?
I thought that 40 lb spring was a chum for the first 5 minutes because of the head shaking. ;D
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Thanks for the tip.good thing you mention adjust drag to leader rating, I would of adjusted to main line rating like a rookie and forgot about the lead.just curious at what point is a set up overkill?How hard do springs fight compared to chums?
Don't use a container ship's winch and anchor and you should be o.k. Seriously, some use 40 lb main line and imo it is an overkill,but that's me. Don't put on your setup a leader that has rating higher than your rod's maximum rating otherwise you're risking breaking rod.
When you want to release a fish it is important to put it through as short stress time as possible giving her chance to quickly recover therefore heavier setup is better and that is conventional wisdom . Now there was article link ,I think here, about scientific research basically saying that no matter what when you let go of fish it'll die within 3 hours.
Chums or Dogs are very strong fish and they can put fight similar to Springs.
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I thought that 40 lb spring was a chum for the first 5 minutes because of the head shaking. ;D
My 27 lb just didn't move for a couple of minutes making me think it was a snag.
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Don't use a container ship winch and anchor
What's that?!
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What's that?!
My bad should be "container ship's winch and anchor".
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I use 20 pound mainline and 15 pound flourocarbon lead for almost everything now on my pin. People may think it sounds overkill, but I land fish quickly and still get a hell of a good fight out of them without stressing them to the max. It gives me the ability to turn fish if they are trying to go where I don't want them to as well... can put the breaks on without having to worry about breaking off. The 15 pound flouro I use is around the same diameter as 10 pound test, so it doesn't spook fish.
I started running 20 pound main and 15 lead when I started fishing high gradient canyon rivers for steelhead which made me turn to heavier line so they didn't leave the run and go down cascades/waterfalls, etc. It seems to work well for springs too, allows me to move them off bottom, and some of the places I fish for them, it isn't possible to chase if they leave the run, so once again I can put the breaks on.
Do you mind sharing what brand of flouro you use, and what knot you use to tie your leader to the swivel? I'm a believer in flouro tippet for fussy trout in still waters. I typically use Seaguar Bluelabel in 4lb and the odd time 6lb. I just tie a improved clinch to the swivel or a tripple surgeon if tying line-to-line and I've never had an issue.
However in the river I've had nothing but issues with flouro. Many leaders busted off at the swivel. Most of the time I was using the same lb test I would be using in mono (typically 12lb, but heavier or lighter depending on the conditions). I tied several different brands but mostly Suffix or Seaguar. I was using the improved clinch knot and tried to be extra careful cinching it down and making sure the knot was very wet, etc. I switcehd to the Palomar after a fair but of online research (knot wars, etc) and had better results, but I find the palomar a pain to get seated right when pulling tight. In the end I just went back to good old Maxima UG for my leaders and all my breakage issues vanished, and IMO I catch just as many fish. I still have the spools of flouro in 12lb, 15lb etc and for kicks would like to give them another shot. Any words to the wise?
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However in the river I've had nothing but issues with flouro. Many leaders busted off at the swivel. Most of the time I was using the same lb test I would be using in mono (typically 12lb, but heavier or lighter depending on the conditions). I tied several different brands but mostly Suffix or Seaguar. I was using the improved clinch knot and tried to be extra careful cinching it down and making sure the knot was very wet, etc. I switcehd to the Palomar after a fair but of online research (knot wars, etc) and had better results, but I find the palomar a pain to get seated right when pulling tight. In the end I just went back to good old Maxima UG for my leaders and all my breakage issues vanished, and IMO I catch just as many fish. I still have the spools of flouro in 12lb, 15lb etc and for kicks would like to give them another shot. Any words to the wise?
I've had the same problems. Since using the plain clinch knot, I've had less problems.
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Look into the palomar knot. Download the Knot Wars app if you haver a smart phone. I find the knot easy to tie if you are going line to lure, as the knot needs to go over the lure. However if you want to tie a new leader to the swivel connected to your mainline, this knot won't work (at least not of me) as the mainline will prevent you from being able to tie the knot properly. I experimented with tying the knot to a swivel (not connected to anything) with the palomar, then connecting that to a duo-lock tied to the mainline. It worked, and I had few if any break offs with the flouro. However this is a LOT of arsing around especialy if you snap off a leader and want to get back to fishing ASAP. In the end I said bugger it and went back to mono and improved clich knots. I find I catch just as many fish adn have a lot more confidence to put the boots to a fish and not have to worry about a knot busting.
All this being said, I do like tinkering with my gear, new lines + knots etc, so I would like to give my leader spools of flouro another shot. Hoping for some good feedback from Every Day
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Dunno if this helps out but I've only used seaguard red floro and pline floro.between the two I find seaguard red floro more limp and softer but can't a beating.the pline I find a little stiffer but takes a ton more beating then seaguard.
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Been using Berkley Vanish Transition Fluorocarbon for leader in 12 and 14lb for the last couple years on my baitcaster setup. I've found it to be extremely tough and I've hardly broken any leaders. Berkely also has Vanish Fluorocarbon but that stuff i'd stay away from. terrible results with that in comparison to the transition. Managed a nice 41lb chinook on the 14lb transition a couple of years ago.
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Seaguard red fluoro is best I have found.
A cinch knot and fluoro will likely fail. Not good if you have a nice fish on. I only use palomar knots but this knot only works on the terminus. So here is what I do:
1) Main to a duolock with a palomar knot.
2) Leader to a swivel with a palomar knot.
3) Leader to terminal gear with a palomar knot.
4) Clip swivel to duolock.
The nice thing is you can pre-tie extra leaders so no knots needed while fishing (my eye sight sucks). Also, I like to limit my leader to 3 hours or so.
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This is pretty much the same thing I was doing with good results:
1-Mainline mono to duo-lock with improved clinch knot (only knot I use with mono to swivel/lure).
2-Flouro leader to barrel swivel with palomar.
3-Connect swivel to duo-lock
I typically was using leaders with a baitloop on an octupus hook, and I never had an issue with that knot breaking.
If I wanted to fish a lure on this setup like a colorado blade, I would use the palomar to tie to the lure.
Overall this worked well as far as knots not busting but I found it to be such a pain getting the palomar to cinch down properly (despite lots of saliva). Plus the added hassle of I working with small swivels (#12 I think) on the leader. The whole thing just cheesed me off and I found I wasnt catching any more fish than my buddies with mono leaders, or than what I'd typically get into before when I was fishing mono leaders.
I've gone back to mono leaders and I find I if I go down to 8 or even 6lb in low clear water I get into just as many fish as everyone else. I find it comes down more to the size of my presentation, etc. This being said I know a lot of guiys swear by flouro so to each their own and whatever you have confidence in!
One of the best/most productive fishermen I know uses the cheapest foam dink floats he can find, pencil lead, and mono leaders and on any given day will outfish me and everyone else on a given run. However he has about 15 years more experience on the river than I do.
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Had a few people asking me on this thread my leader line/main line combo.
Mainline is PLine CPX, or something along those lines. To be honest, I hate it, made a switch today to a different type of 20 pound PLine that is thinner, so we'll see how that goes on the next outing.
My leader is Seaguar blue label, or red label, to be honest they aren't much different, but the red label is way cheaper. I just double checked the label on the line and it says the 15 pnd is actually the same diameter of 12 pnd test, but it's still thin and it seems even in the slowest, clearest water, it hasn't made a difference on spooky fish. I'm convinced I could run 20 pound flourocarbon and not have it cost me fish at this point. The only time I have ever seen line diameter in flouro make a difference is with spooky low water lock-jawed coho and rainbows. Lowest I go is 8 pound flouro and that will get any fish to bite.
As for the knots I use... I just use a basic improved clinch knot for attaching to the swivel, I haven't had any problems with breakage at all, even when really putting the breaks on fish. Attaching to hook I use a basic bait loop knot. Just make sure you wet your knots before pulling, and pull slow until the knot tightens up, then pull hard. You shouldn't have problems with flourocarbon breaking....
PS Some one above said the Berkley transition flourocarbon is good (the brown/gold stuff). It's trash... I broke off 15 fish in a row on the hook set (thank goodness I tried this on coho first). I wouldn't recommend it to anyone, threw 300 yards of it into the trash. Maybe I had a bad batch, but I'd never try it again....
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^^^ I second that about that Berkley stuff. Tried it a few times this month and it's by far the worst line I've ever used. Good thing I decided to put on mono a few casts before I hooked into a summer run
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I use Damyl Tectan Superior 24.6lb main line. This line is thin in diameter and is equivalent to ultra green 10 lb, yet it is very strong, and has only a slight stretch factor. Its the best line I have used. Landed many steelhead as large as 14 lb with this mainline. Available only in USA and it is expensive but worth every cent you pay for it.
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I am still using mono main line and leader, no need for fancy stuff, still catch a fair share. (steelhead, trout,salmon etc.......
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Every Day - thanks a lot for that info! With Pline I've only tried the CXX-Xtra strong in 20lb and 17lb for mainline and I was really impressed. Not sure how well it would do on a pin though. This year for mainline I'm going to test out some Berkley Prospec in 20lb and Seaguar Senshi in 15lbd a lot of good things about both esp the Prospec. A guy I keep in touch with from Searun says it's all he uses on his baitcasters for mainline.
Also, do you think you catch more fish on the flouro? I know some guys says they like it for the abrasion resistance mainly. Personally I didn't think my catch rate went up. In clear water for fussy coho or trout I'll bust it out, but IMO it's more of a confidence thing. Like how I think I shoot better using premium ammo! In reality, if someone put the cheap stuff in the expensive box I'd likely shoot just as well :o
Kenwee, I've never heard of this Damyl line but I'lll look into it. Thank you.
Leapin Tyee, yeah I hear you man! I was all hyped to give flourocarbon a go and thought I'd be outfishing my buddies with their mono, but I didnt, and broke off WAY more fish than I ever did with mono. This year I'm sticking with good old mono leaders (UG mainly) and will bust out the flouro here and there for kicks.
Oh and to respond to the original posting I fish for springs:
10"6 Sage 2106
Shimano Currado 301E
Generally 20lb mainline, but sometimes 17lb or 15lb
Generally 12-15lb leader for springs depending on the water
25-30g DNE float
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I have used Seaguar Senshi it is good, strong and thin in diameter but cost more than Damyl Tectan or Dam Tectan. I find Dam Tectan just if not stronger than Seaguar and much more affordable. Try it and you won't regret it.
It is only available from fishes.com
It also has very little , or most times zero memory.
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Kenwee your site address doesn't work for me .Is it possible you forgot something in it?
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Kenwee your site address doesn't work for me .Is it possible you forgot something in it?
Try http://www.fishusa.com/Product/DAM-Tectan-Premium-Plus-Monofilament
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When fishing for springs the usual bait I used was either roe or wool, both quite effective. This year I'd like to check steelhead hard plastic egg beads. Did anyone had success with it and if so how did you set up the rig.
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Sorry guys: it is fishusa.com
go to lines and then monofilament.
Damyl or Dam monofilament lines are made in Germany and they have been in business for 140 years. I used to use these lines some 35 years ago when I was ocean fishing in the Far East for huge snappers, groupers , mackerel and other tropical water species. They have zero memory and the lines wind well into the boat, we use hand lines out there.
I searched all over North America for these lines and finally found them at fishusa.com
Try them out , I am sure you will be happy with them.
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When fishing for springs the usual bait I used was either roe or wool, both quite effective. This year I'd like to check steelhead hard plastic egg beads. Did anyone had success with it and if so how did you set up the rig.
I'd be interested in this answer as well. How about gooy bobs or scented jensen eggs on a egg looped knot?
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t31.0-8/1399590_394343257360961_1270314846_o.jpg)
Jack caught this on 14 lb test last summer.