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[leapin' tyee]

Last question: GSH 3106 vs CT 3106.....difference?

Difference in graphite.

More information in pm

[flyrod]

SA is the blue blank for building Salt Water Mooching Rods. Little different action from the CT3106B. 

[Geff_t]

Haha sorry for the hassle! I tried and tried to find a nice chart out there somewhere that tells each blanks action and line rating. Can't find one. Have just been making notes from old discussions on this site and other forums. Still a few gaps in my info but I more or less "get it."

I think the ideal find would be a CT 3106. Pretty minimal chance I would not be happy with this rod as I have the same rod, but the CT 2106 version. I'd slap a bit bigger/heavier reel than I fish on the 2106 on the 3106 to balance out the rod.

Also I like the factory rods as if something happens to it, break on a fish or more likely an "accident" (gets stepped on or whatever) I don't need to pay extra $ to get it rebuilt; rather, a warranty claim will yield me a nice new factory rod. Plus I really like the factory green blank - they are quite lovely actually!

If you buy one of Brian Babcock's Sage rods that are the brown blank then he will replace the piece just like Sage would would do for their green blanks. The big difference is that Brian will replace it alot quicker and his rods have the look of a custom build but is considered a factory.

[Spawn Sack]

Thanks Geff_t and everyone else who responded. Tons of good info!

Last thought...and sorry a know this is a buy and sell not general discussion, but what the hell. So say a guy is looking at 2 rods. A CT 3106 and a CT 3113. Both, I believe, have the same line rating (10-20). Difference, aside from the obvious 9 inches, is the 3106 is med/fast action, and the 3113 is medium action.

Aside from the 3113 having a slower action which some people like, is there any other reason why you'd choose the 3113? Seems that by and large it is a more popular rod than the 3106. Perhaps I just see the 3113 more often as it is a popular pin rod? Possibly more desirable than the faster 3106. However you can get a slower 3106, such as the 3106L. However, I personally have not seen many guys fish the 10'6 esp on the pin.

Is there some other benefit to the 11'3 I have overlooked?

The water I typically fish I am not bombing casts, and do not need the extra 9 inches for line management on my drift(s). To me the 10'6 has the same jam as the 11'3 if you get the right version for the 3106, and it is presumably a lighter rod that would be easier on the wrist + casting arm over the course of a day's fishing.

Would love to hear from anyone who has or has fished both rods and their cost/benifet of one vs the other.

[Brian Babcock]

Hmmm.... Where to start!

SA (Single Action): All blue in colour. Designed with saltwater downrigger / power mooching in mind.
CT (Casting Trigger): All green. Designed for baitcasters.
CP (Centerpin): All green. Designed for pins.
SP (Spinning): All green. Designed for spinning reels.

GSH (Graphite Steelhead): All brown. Identical blanks to the SA, CT, and CP models above. Different paint job.
GSP (Graphite Spinning): All brown. Identical to SP above. Different paint job.

Model numbers work as follows:

eg: CP3113MB CenterPin / Power 3 / 11'3" Length / Medium Action / Blank
      CT290FB Casting Trigger / Power 2 / 9'0" Length / Fast Action / Blank

In the last couple of years, I have been trying to simplify this a bit by doing the following. Going forward, all saltwater "SA" blanks will remain blue. All casting "CT" blanks will remain green. All centerpin "CP" blanks will be phased out and replaced by "GSH" brown blanks. Spinning "SP" blanks remain green.

Now, if your heart is stuck on let's say a green 3113MB, you can still build the CT3113MB into a centerpin model. The blank is identical - different screen print. There are a number of blanks that "cross over" this way. I'll try and list them here:

SA3106B / CT3106B - same blank
SA4120B / CT4120 B
SA4110B / CT4110B
CT3113MB / CP3113MB / GSH3113MB
CP3106LB / GSH3106LB

And lastly, here is a current list of Sage Gear blanks that can be purchased from any authorized Sage Dealer:

CT4120B
CT4110B
CT490B
CT3113MB
CT3106B
CT396FB
CT390B
CT386FB
CT2106B
CT296FB
CT290FB

SA4120B
SA4110B
SA4100B
SA3106B

GSH3113MB
GSH3113LB
GSH3106LB (still have a handful of green CP3106LB's as well)
GSH2106LB

SP570-3B
SP296FB
SP196B

As to the warranty question, I stock warranty tips for all models all the time. If it's one of my builds, you get the completed section back. Otherwise, you get the blank section. The S&H Sage warranty charge still applies but is considerably less ($80. CND) than returning it to the factory. I try to turn warranty around within a week. Any of the "Factory Sage Gear Rods" still have to go back to Sage - I'm not involved in that.


That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Hope this helps!

Brian

[Spawn Sack]

Wow thank you Mr.Babcock! Awesome write up!

More or less what I have noted down after reading literally dozens of old threads on this site. I did a "sage" word search and pretty much read it all. Still there is extra info in your write up about the blank colors, "different" blanks that are the same thing just diff color or letters, so thanks a lot as I was still wondering a few things. You cleared it all up!

I own just one Sage rod. A factory green CT 2106, 8-17 line rating, 1/4-1oz lure rating. It's my favorite baitcaster rod I own hands down. I fish it with a Currado 301E7. Awesome match up!

I'm considering a 3113LB pin rod. How would you compare the power of the two?

I find it a tad confusing comparing a 3 power "light blank" to a 2 power CT, which it sounds like would be the same as a 2106MB (although I do not believe this blank exists). I realize my 2106 has a faster action than the 3113LB. I love my 2106 but consider it more of a steelhead/coho rod. I want a new pin rod with a bit more butt power for springs and chum. I know there is the 3113MB, but I believe this rod would have a bit TOO much beef for what I am looking for, plus it seems logical that a more powerful rod will be a bit heavier. I'm trying to stay as light as I can within reason.