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[FishOn36]

I recently bought a Minn Kota Endura C2 30lb trust motor, along with their "MKR-19 circuit breaker"
(http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-19-CIRCUIT-BREAKER/)

A few questions about this:

1. Is a 60amp breaker too much for a motor like this? This documentation on their website lists "50 Amp @ 12 VDC"

(https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.minnkotamotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx%3Fid%3D3273&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwj7zO-NlJbLAhVO9GMKHd64BH8QFggIMAI&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNG0TfNV8jzbXYMnyngs_nClBtFS1g)

2. What gauge of wire, 10 or 6 AWG and what type of connectors would I need to hook up the breaker? The wire running from the battery to the breaker will probably only be about 12".

3. what would be the best way to mount the breaker? This motor will be used in an inflatable boat with the battery inside of a battery box.

[Noahs Arc]

Where's Electroman when you need him?

[ShaunO]

A couple quick points about anything electrical.

Its a 20% increase between a 50A and 60A breaker.  This breaker likely won't trip from normal use and is there in the event of a dead short.

The breaker rating above also affects your wire selection.  If you had a 60A breaker and used (for example) 20AWG wire and had a dead short, your wire would become a lightbulb filament, melt the insulation and burn everything it touches all before the breaker popped.  Bad!

With respect to sizing the wire, always go with the larger size.  The cost is usually minimal to upsize.  Use Ancor Marine Products ring terminals or lugs for connections.  Anything larger than 10AWG need a lug instead of a ring terminal.  Use shrink tubing to cover the ends and you should be good.

As for mounting the breaker and wiring, you need to keep them as far away from water as possible.  If you can use wingnuts on the breaker you might be able to make it easily removable.  Honestly though, the option below from Minn Kota would better suit you given you are in an inflatable.  No extra wiring or installing.  Just drop your battering into the box and you are up and running.  It even provides auxiliary power ports and a 10A breaker.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/BATTERY-POWER-CENTER/

I would rate the above option as a better solution for an inflatable.  My 2 cents, but at least your gonna get out on the water and thats what its all about!

[FishOn36]

A couple quick points about anything electrical.

Its a 20% increase between a 50A and 60A breaker.  This breaker likely won't trip from normal use and is there in the event of a dead short.

The breaker rating above also affects your wire selection.  If you had a 60A breaker and used (for example) 20AWG wire and had a dead short, your wire would become a lightbulb filament, melt the insulation and burn everything it touches all before the breaker popped.  Bad!

With respect to sizing the wire, always go with the larger size.  The cost is usually minimal to upsize.  Use Ancor Marine Products ring terminals or lugs for connections.  Anything larger than 10AWG need a lug instead of a ring terminal.  Use shrink tubing to cover the ends and you should be good.

As for mounting the breaker and wiring, you need to keep them as far away from water as possible.  If you can use wingnuts on the breaker you might be able to make it easily removable.  Honestly though, the option below from Minn Kota would better suit you given you are in an inflatable.  No extra wiring or installing.  Just drop your battering into the box and you are up and running.  It even provides auxiliary power ports and a 10A breaker.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/BATTERY-POWER-CENTER/

I would rate the above option as a better solution for an inflatable.  My 2 cents, but at least your gonna get out on the water and thats what its all about!

I did look into that power center prior, and yes it's definitely the way to go..but I''m trying to keep the cost down. Almost $200 in, and don't have a battery or charger yet!

Anywhere local that carries those battery power centers?

[Damien]

I've run minnkota electric motors for almost 30 years and never did anything but hook it up directly to a deep cycle battery and go.

At most, I plopped my battery into a cheap battery box or milk crate when it sat on the floor of my zodiac just to avoid sharp corners.

[FishOn36]

I've run minnkota electric motors for almost 30 years and never did anything but hook it up directly to a deep cycle battery and go.

At most, I plopped my battery into a cheap battery box or milk crate when it sat on the floor of my zodiac just to avoid sharp corners.

Have you ever hit bottom or fouled the prop with weeds?

[Damien]

Dozens and dozens of times, on both fronts.

[FishOn36]

Dozens and dozens of times, on both fronts.

Amazing. I always thought trolling motors were simple hookup to the battery, nothing else needed. Checked online and sure enough lots of people are saying that you should be running a circuit breaker. Kinda nice to have that peace of mind though, last thing I'd want is to have a fire in an inflatable boat...or any boat for that matter!

[ShaunO]

Its all about personal preference and level of comfort.

I've seen those battery boxes locally in the LM, but I can't recall where exactly.  I thought it was Canadian Tire but it doesn't show online.  It could have been Berry's Bait and Tackle or Army and Navy.  I guess just let your fingers do the walking if you would like to find one.

Also, I've only ever just run mine directly from the battery too, but the only way you could cause yourself problems was jamming the propeller and trying to clear it for 10 minutes at full throttle.  Don't forget, the business end of this motor is under water and is constantly being cooled.

[Noahs Arc]

I've run minnkota electric motors for almost 30 years and never did anything but hook it up directly to a deep cycle battery and go.

At most, I plopped my battery into a cheap battery box or milk crate when it sat on the floor of my zodiac just to avoid sharp corners.

X2, except not as long in the tooth

[DanL]

I did look into that power center prior, and yes it's definitely the way to go..but I''m trying to keep the cost down. Almost $200 in, and don't have a battery or charger yet!

Anywhere local that carries those battery power centers?

I think Sea-Run carries them. They look pretty nice but also expensive. $90 if I recall...

[doja]

Do trolling motor's not have overload protection?

[Noahs Arc]

Electrical is not my strong point.
I do know my Minnkota 30lb has been to hell and back, ran into all sorts of ground, cavitated on purpose piss drunk laughing away throttling from forward to reverse and even one trip I forgot the backup deep cycle, and used one of the batteries from my diesel pickup.
Still tickin.

[Electroman]

I recently bought a Minn Kota Endura C2 30lb trust motor, along with their "MKR-19 circuit breaker"
(http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-19-CIRCUIT-BREAKER/)

A few questions about this:

1. Is a 60amp breaker too much for a motor like this? This documentation on their website lists "50 Amp @ 12 VDC"

(https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.minnkotamotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx%3Fid%3D3273&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwj7zO-NlJbLAhVO9GMKHd64BH8QFggIMAI&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNG0TfNV8jzbXYMnyngs_nClBtFS1g)

2. What gauge of wire, 10 or 6 AWG and what type of connectors would I need to hook up the breaker? The wire running from the battery to the breaker will probably only be about 12".

3. what would be the best way to mount the breaker? This motor will be used in an inflatable boat with the battery inside of a battery box.

CCT breakers are meant to protect the wire. I wouldn't worry about using one especially if its only a short length.

Not more than two copper conductors in cable #10 is good for 40A, #8 for 55A, and #6 for 75A (2015 CEC)

I doubt trolling motors provide overload protection. Wouldn't want to be in the middle of a lake with the O/L popping.

[FishOn36]

CCT breakers are meant to protect the wire. I wouldn't worry about using one especially if its only a short length.

Not more than two copper conductors in cable #10 is good for 40A, #8 for 55A, and #6 for 75A (2015 CEC)

I doubt trolling motors provide overload protection. Wouldn't want to be in the middle of a lake with the O/L popping.

I'll be running it on an 11ft intex mariner, or a roughly 13ft Avon raft. The wire will be really close to the battery.