Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => Fly Fishing Cafe => Topic started by: zabber on July 22, 2013, 10:10:25 PM
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(http://sbpt.yolasite.com/resources/DSCF3863.JPG.opt660x495o0%2C0s660x495.JPG)
Picked up this lot today.
Any comments RE: which one(s) would be most productive in the salt or which ones would be better left in the box?
Thanks!
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Anything works for pinks. Red/pink/orange preferably. But I found blue/green/chartreuse works just as good.
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saltchuck - 2 pattern on the top left and the chartreuse clouser bottom right
freshwater - clouser again and probably the fly above it. also get yourself some pink wooly buggers (weighted)
That should be enough patterns to get you into fish. Focus more on your retrieve speed. once you find one that works its game on
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saltchuck - 2 pattern on the top left and the chartreuse clouser bottom right
freshwater - clouser again and probably the fly above it. also get yourself some pink wooly buggers (weighted)
That should be enough patterns to get you into fish. Focus more on your retrieve speed. once you find one that works its game on
What Hook said, and don't forget to pinch those barbs. I fish clouser type patterns for pink exclusively now as the upturned hook ensures a more solid hook set in the tougher upper jaw rather than the softer lower jaw (pinks have famously soft mouths). I only had 2 of 12 fish toss the hook on me last time out, whereas a guy in front of me on the beach was 0 for 5 to the beach while I was there. My bugger patterns are now tied with bead chain instead of single beads to get that rotation of the hook.
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Awesome. Thanks for the info guys!
Especially thanks for the info. on how to fish the clouser. Do you tie it upside down, or does it just flip that way in the water because of the weight? I'll start by tying it upside down tomorrow just to be on the safe side and see how that works out. Maybe pick up a couple of pink clousers from SeaRun on the way too.
Will let you know how I make out.
Cheers!
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You tie the dumbbell eyes on the top of the hook shank but tie the pattern with the dark colour under the hook (same side as the point) so that when the barbell cause the hook to flip the pattern is sitting the proper way.
Do not buy actual pink coloured clousers. I had a few and they never worked, never !
only coloured clousers that have worked are the chartreuse/white and red/white
the clouser is very simple to tie but also very easy to over dress by tying in to much bucktail. Don't forget to add the green or pearl crystal flash in between the two colours. I have a few in my box I did in a rush and forgot the flash, they do work but nearly as well
HOOK - has about 20 clousers in his pink salmon box.................think I need to tie more :o
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As hook said, clousers are tied in upside down so they are right side (dark side) up when fished hook up. The buggers are round patterns so they don't matter what way they are tied.
Do not buy actual pink coloured clousers. I had a few and they never worked, never !
only coloured clousers that have worked are the chartreuse/white and red/white
I have always used pink clousers, until last week that is ;D, and have always done well, including the two I hooked last week before switching to the chartruese pattern. In fact pink clousers were all I use in 2011 and was slaying them on the Fraser and Harrison. The chartreuse pattern did do well, however, including that time I had three fish on three casts, but since I was not using the pink one at the time, there is no way of telling if the colour had really made the difference. I will need to bring my daughter along next time to do a more scientific trial.
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Pink clousers are my go to. They work very well.
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are you guys getting pink bucktail with good colouring ?
the pink I had before was very very pale which may be why it didn't work well
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Yup. There's pink and there's fluorescent pink. I use the latter. I do also add some pink crystal flash to mine.
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Yeah, I have both a hot pink bucktail and a paler pink flashabou accent. I mix a bit of crystal flash under (while the hook is upright in the vice) a few strands of white polar bear for the light side, then I flip the fly over and tie a bit of the pink flashabou under a few strands of the hot pink bucktail for the dark side.
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California Neil in size 4 and 6 on Mustad 34007 also works really well for pinks and cohos in chartreuse and pink.
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I do fine with a number of patterns.
Pattern 1)
hook: #6 to #8 2xl
eyes: small gold barbell or bead chain
Body: Silver (optional)
Hackle: florescent cerise marabou wrapped 2xs
topping: silver or gold flashabou
The Pink Puke:
hook: #8 to #10 standard length
eyes: silver bead chain
tail: florescent pink or cerise marabou
body: florescent pink or cerise sparkle chenille
Note the Puke fly is an all white smallmouth bass pattern
Egg Headed muddler
Hook: 8 to 10 3xl
tail: pink or cerise mallard
body: holographic silver
Wing: same as tail topped with pearly krystal flash
head: puff of cerise egg wool
Pink Eve:
Body: silver
Wing: pink hair (bucktail, calf, fox or artificial) can be topped with a contrasting shade of pink
and krystal flash
Point is use florescent pink or cerise. Chartreuse can be subbed if you want to try something else.
other colours - I did well with an all white pattern tail was white, butt was hot green floss body white lite bright body and the hackle was pearl mallard.
Pinks aren't particular for the most part and pattern not critical - just have to present the fly right!
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Haha, sorry for the confusion!
What I meant by "tie" was "to the line" ... so that the hook is facing up :P I'm just realizing that it doesn't really matter (with the improved clinch knot) whether you insert from the top side or the bottom side first because you can just move the knot around the hook later. Didn't really think that one through ::)
Anyways, didn't get a chance to try out the patterns today. Bought both gear and flies and everyone hucking fur wasn't getting much action whereas gear was producing. Wanted to get into fish (first time fishing pinks from the beach) more than experience the thrill of salmon on the fly so chucked the productive metal. Gonna go again Friday so may get a chance then.
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Haha, sorry for the confusion!
What I meant by "tie" was "to the line" ... so that the hook is facing up :P I'm just realizing that it doesn't really matter (with the improved clinch knot) whether you insert from the top side or the bottom side first because you can just move the knot around the hook later. Didn't really think that one through ::)
Use a non slip loop knot, it gives better action to the fly.
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Thanks Sandman, I'll give that shot.
Do you use that knot for all flies, or just that particular one? I know that with chironomids you want to tie a loop knot like that -- to give them a more natural dangle -- but haven't heard that that type of knot is used for other bugs.
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I use a loop knot on everything but dry flies. any fly you want to have some action or to be swung needs to have full movement in the water and a loop knot allows it to be free to move. using Clinch knots will work of course but you will notice your fly has more freedom when tied with a loop.
love the loop, it will love you back ;)
I mainly don't use loop for dries because I think the loop dragging in the surface film will cause the fly to partially sink, have strange action, track incorrectly.......etc
Chehalis - thanks for the C Neil suggestion. not sure why I never thought to use those for pinks LoL
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Chehalis - thanks for the C Neil suggestion. not sure why I never thought to use those for pinks LoL
Yeah, my "buggers" are really CNs.
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Good to know. I'll be doing some trout fishing around 70 mile house this Sunday-Tuesday so I'll give that knot a shot. Hopefully it puts me into more fish than usual :D :D
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if your trolling then the loop knot will do nothing special for you. When you strip the fly to create "action" the loop knot allows the fly to get more action. If a swung fly is what your using then the loop allows the waters current to manipulate the fly more as it swings through the current causing the fly to jump, jerk, drop...... however the current moves. If your fishing under a bobber the loop knot allows your fly to always sit in the proper position regardless of pattern and you never have to worry that the knot has hinged to the side cause your fly to sit funny or track through the water strangely (I found the Clinch notorious for this)
also a properly tied loop knot has a higher breaking strength than the clinch knot. I have never had a loop break on me, its always broken above the actual knot itself
remember to lubricate the knot with some spit before pulling it tight. especially if using flourocarbon
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Yeah, my "buggers" are really CNs.
Does that mean you tie them a lot more sparsely than a traditional bugger? Also, do you change the CN body colour or hackle to pink?
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Does that mean you tie them a lot more sparsely than a traditional bugger? Also, do you change the CN body colour or hackle to pink?
For CN bubble gum or hot pink with red wire ribbing is the ticket for the body. Hackle doesn't really matter but I just use regular grizzly hackle as it contrasts with the body.
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if your trolling then the loop knot will do nothing special for you.
Ah, good to know.
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Does that mean you tie them a lot more sparsely than a traditional bugger? Also, do you change the CN body colour or hackle to pink?
Yes, I use a flashy material, either a few strands of flashabou or a cut up anti static bag, for the body instead of the usual chenille. I rib it with thin wire, usually red, before wrapping the hackle.
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Guys , if using a sink tip line.... should I have a leader to tippet? or just 4ft of tippet off sink tip line will work?
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Guys , if using a sink tip line.... should I have a leader to tippet? or just 4ft of tippet off sink tip line will work?
I use a couple of feet of 8-10 pound ultragreen then a couple of feet of 6 pound fluorocarbon for tippet.
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I just normally use one full 6-8 foot length of 8lb ultragreen
Sandman - you tie your CN's with chenille ? the body is actually supposed to be diamond braid which is a flashy material.
HOOK - likes him some CN's but never thought to whore them out to pinks :o
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I only use sparkle chenille or a similar material for salmon patterns. You can clip the stuff down to get a body with a thin profile.
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Sandman - you tie your CN's with chenille ? the body is actually supposed to be diamond braid which is a flashy material.
No, I tie my woolly buggers with chenille (olive or black for coho), but I tie my CNs (which i had earlier referred to as "buggers" when in fact they are CNs) with a few strands of flashabou or a strip off Anti-static bag. My pink ones are tied with a few strands of that pink flashabou accent I was using for the clousers. I rarely tie flies the way they are "supposed" to be tied, instead I look at the fly (In a book, in the fly shop's display case, on the line of the guy in the boat next to me catching all the fish, etc) and then tie it with whatever I happen to have on hand, making it look as close to the original as possible.
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I only use sparkle chenille or a similar material for salmon patterns. You can clip the stuff down to get a body with a thin profile.
I have started using that too, but haven't been trimming them. I should try that.
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Yes, I use a flashy material, either a few strands of flashabou or a cut up anti static bag, for the body instead of the usual chenille. I rib it with thin wire, usually red, before wrapping the hackle.
Thanks. I'm tying up some pink flies right now - just experimenting with a bunch of different patterns. I'll try some CNs based on your specs.
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A little off topic, but what would be an ideal fly line to use for pinks in the vedder?
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dry line with sink tips
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"I just normally use one full 6-8 foot length of 8lb ultragreen."
Hook, how do you attach this 6-8 foot piece of 8lb to your mainline or added sink tip? I use a loop to loop connection. I've found that if I just use a straight piece of mono/flouro that is on the lighter side (say 10lb or under) the thin diameter will often cause the leader to cut into the mainline.
I've remedied this by having a butt of, say, 15lb, then blood knot to whatever my tipppet is. For pinks I would probably use 10lb.
I am a novice fly fisher so feedback/critique would be appreciated.
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Pink/White Clouser; few strands of krystal flash in the middle and a chartreuse head.
It's been a killer this past week on multiple days.
;D
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"I just normally use one full 6-8 foot length of 8lb ultragreen."
Hook, how do you attach this 6-8 foot piece of 8lb to your mainline or added sink tip? I use a loop to loop connection. I've found that if I just use a straight piece of mono/flouro that is on the lighter side (say 10lb or under) the thin diameter will often cause the leader to cut into the mainline.
I've remedied this by having a butt of, say, 15lb, then blood knot to whatever my tipppet is. For pinks I would probably sue 10lb.
I am a novice fly fisher so feedback/critique would be appreciated.
Just tie a perfection loop in one end. Use that as your loop to loop connection and then a standard clinch knot to the fly will be fine.
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That's what I was using. Although the mono loop did not cut throught the sink tip loop, it did cut into the coating. I'm using a different line now for pinks + coho. It's a clear intermediate sinking tip line. Maybe I'll give the straight piece of thin mono another shot...but I'd be peeved if it cut into the welded loop that the line comes with.
Aside from the extra time to connect two pieces of line together, is there any reason why connecting a thicker butt to a lighter tippet would be unadvisable?
IMO a straight piece of mono would have the advantage of breaking strength. In other words, a straight piece of mono unlikely to break at either loop knot. However it would be more likely to break at the (weaker) connecting knot (I'd use a blood knot).
However the thicker butt connected to the lighter tip may have the advantage to turning the fly over better. No? Admittedly I'm talking out of my a** a bit :o
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sweet thanks!
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I run my fly line to a butt section of heavier mono attached using a nail knot. From there I tie a loop connection to a leader (loop to loop). The leader is lighter mono or flouro which (when used with the thicker butt section) tends to turn the fly over.
If I am using a dry fly I may attach a lighter tippet to the end of the leader to get a better more gentle turn over.
I usually don't have to re-tie the butt section very often and changing the leader is easy because it is loop to loop. I find I am more likely to change the leader due to wind knots or damage if the leader is easy to change.
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sink tip is attached to your dry fly line using loop/loop, then I added a short butt of 25lb to ALL my sink tips, I then just tie a double surgeons into one end of my leader and loop/loop connect it, then tie on your fly using a non slip knot. I have not once had the butt section break on me, I do however replace it every couple years because mono weakens
you shouldn't need to use anything over 8lb with only pinks in the water. on average these fish are not even large enough to break it trying their hardest possible, especially the Squamish pinks which are smaller than the Fraser ones.
Don't make your butt section more than 8" otherwise it doesn't turn over your leader/fly as nicely/easily
Get your local shop to put a loop on the end of your sink tips if they don't have it already. I do it myself which I think I have explained before on this site so feel free to search for it. easiest way is to fold the sink tip line against itself and bind it down with 2 nail knots slightly apart from each other and then coat with a flexible glue (UV knot sense is good)
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Thanks for the tips guys. GREAT thread!
Funeral of hearts: You said you connect your butt section to your mainline with a nail knot. My mainline is an intermediate sinking line that already has a loop in it. Is there any advantage of connecting these two lines with a nail knot vs loop-to-loop? I have heard of some guys cutting the loop off and going to the nail knot...what the heck?
Also double surgeons loop vs. perfection loop? I've tried both and find the DSL a lot easier to tie. I've never had either knot bust on me.
My plan is, like HOOK mentioned, have a short butt of 25lb or so connected to my mainline with a loop to loop. From there I'll probably step it down to a couple feet of 15lb or so, then my tippet. I don't think 25 would blood knot that well to 8-10lb.
I guess I could loop-to-loop the 8-10lb tippet directly to the butt with a loop-to-loop??? Any disadvantage to doing this??? As FOH mentioned it would be a lot quicker/easier to change out a damaged tippet than cutting line and retying.
How about butt section to a small swivel, and tippet to the other end of the swivel like they do in still water fishing? However I imagine it would be hard to get 25lb to tie onto a tiny swivel. Hmm...
I know I could just buy tapered leaders but they are so pricey and I have so much mono kicking around I figure surely I can work out a system to use the mono I already have instead of burning through tapered leaders. I am just getting ino the fly scene so I tend to be pretty hard on my leaders with wind knots, etc.
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I know I could just buy tapered leaders but they are so pricey and I have so much mono kicking around I figure surely I can work out a system to use the mono I already have instead of burning through tapered leaders. I am just getting ino the fly scene so I tend to be pretty hard on my leaders with wind knots, etc.
Amundsen 9ft tapered leaders sell for $1.99 and Sedge 9fters sell for $2.49. There are mono but you can always tie on a bit of fluoro tippet if you think it makes a difference... I find that with 6-8 ft of tippet most any wind knots end up there... If you check ur leaders every few casts you'll also find that the knots are loose enough that they can be opened up pretty easily...
I tried fluorocarbon tapered leaders a season or two ago and was sorely disappointed. They frayed like crazy, for whatever reason. I've since gone back to the cheap tapered leaders and couldn't be happier with the quality and savings. I just lengthen the tippet to 10-15 feet if the water is very clear.
Nothing wrong with making your own tapered leaders though; many experienced fly anglers prefer to. I just can't be bothered to tie together 2 foot sections of various lines that I don't own :P
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if your trolling then the loop knot will do nothing special for you. When you strip the fly to create "action" the loop knot allows the fly to get more action.
Managed this porker over the "weekend": (http://sbpt.yolasite.com/resources/DSCF3873.JPG.opt660x495o0%2C0s660x495.JPG)
I tied all my bugs using that loop knot. I troll slow in my kickboat, with the occasional pause and/or tug of the rod, so I figured it could only help. No way of knowing for sure, but -- regardless -- I love the knot :D :D
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nice fish Zabber !
Spawn Sack - all your questions just confused me............which means I think you may be over thinking things and possibly confusing yourself. Your line is a FULL LINE intermediate sink line ? if so then yes you only need to add a leader, tie a DSL into one end and loop/loop it together then just tie your fly to the other end. salmon fishing you never need leaders over 6-8feet, what this means is you don't have to bother using tapered leaders because they will turn over being so short.
Now if your line is a DRY line then you will want to add a sink tip. loop/loop connect the sink tip to your dry line, add a butt section of heavy mono to the opposite end of the sink tip, tie a DSL loop into one end of your leader and loop/loop it to your butt section then just tie on your fly
If your using a full intermediate sink line for river fishing your probably working harder than you need to unless you have a stripping basket that is. I say this because your line laying in the water will sink making it tougher to get it up/out of the water to cast, This will cause you to make more false casts and fatiguing your shoulder. If you use a dry line with a sink tip most guys make 1 or 2 false casts and then "shoot" whats left, if you have a basket then 1 false cast is enough because there is no resistance on the stripped in line meaning it will go like gang busters
If you really want you can try adding a swivel but like you said 25lb test wont knot through a tiny swivel which means you'll need a size10 or larger which WILL add weight to where its tied in and could cause your fly to travel strangely. On lakes we only use swivels when fishing under indicators for 3 reasons, adds weight to get down faster, adds weight to keep your presentation straight up/down, adds weight to keep your presentation "in the zone" when fishing windy days or if you finger roll your fly in
don't cut off the loops on your fly lines, they make life easier. only line I would cut if off would be a CLEAR sink line
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what length and weight of sink tips would you recommend?
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A little off topic, but what would be an ideal fly line to use for pinks in the vedder?
I mostly fish a clear intermediate tip (10 to 15 feet). A clear intermediate works as well. Some people fish a pattern with tungsten beads or barbells eyes on a floating line with a leader of 9 feet or longer.
A #6 to #8 rod and line is best.
Pinks will react to a fly as in they'll swim to and grab a swung fly and chase retrieved flies.
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tips for where ? you need to be more specific because I will use anything from a clear sink tip all the way to T11 depending on the depth and/or speed of the current
you wanna cover all your bases then so buy these
floater, clear tip, type 3, type 6 - These come in a wallet set from Rio and will save you over buying them individually
type 8 is sold separately now, it used to come in the package but they changed it a couple years ago
12-15 foot chunks of T11, T14 - you could also get T8 but it sinks the same as the type 6 so there really is no point in having two tips do cover the same water column
I would buy the T tip though because T (tungsten) sink tip material comes on bulk spools so its a lot cheaper and you can get it cut to whatever length you want. the # designation is NOT the sink rate, it IS the amount of grains per foot (#11 - 11 grains per foot)
here are the sink rates for the T# tip material
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a80/Flaming_Hook/20130731_161132_zpsa59a3000.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/Flaming_Hook/media/20130731_161132_zpsa59a3000.jpg.html)
here are the sink rates for the "type" tips. note that the # designation IS the sink rate
Clear = 1.5-2inches/second
type 3 = 3-4 inches/second
type 6 = 6-7inches/second
type 8 = 8-9inches/second
Im sure the sink rates for ALL these materials is done in water that is not moving so don't expect them to sink this fast in moving water however it will be somewhat close especially when you mend properly it may even sink faster as the current helps pull it down.
I hope that is enough info for you guys ;)
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nice fish Zabber !
Spawn Sack - all your questions just confused me............which means I think you may be over thinking things and possibly confusing yourself. Your line is a FULL LINE intermediate sink line ? if so then yes you only need to add a leader, tie a DSL into one end and loop/loop it together then just tie your fly to the other end. salmon fishing you never need leaders over 6-8feet, what this means is you don't have to bother using tapered leaders because they will turn over being so short.
Now if your line is a DRY line then you will want to add a sink tip. loop/loop connect the sink tip to your dry line, add a butt section of heavy mono to the opposite end of the sink tip, tie a DSL loop into one end of your leader and loop/loop it to your butt section then just tie on your fly
If your using a full intermediate sink line for river fishing your probably working harder than you need to unless you have a stripping basket that is. I say this because your line laying in the water will sink making it tougher to get it up/out of the water to cast, This will cause you to make more false casts and fatiguing your shoulder. If you use a dry line with a sink tip most guys make 1 or 2 false casts and then "shoot" whats left, if you have a basket then 1 false cast is enough because there is no resistance on the stripped in line meaning it will go like gang busters
If you really want you can try adding a swivel but like you said 25lb test wont knot through a tiny swivel which means you'll need a size10 or larger which WILL add weight to where its tied in and could cause your fly to travel strangely. On lakes we only use swivels when fishing under indicators for 3 reasons, adds weight to get down faster, adds weight to keep your presentation straight up/down, adds weight to keep your presentation "in the zone" when fishing windy days or if you finger roll your fly in
don't cut off the loops on your fly lines, they make life easier. only line I would cut if off would be a CLEAR sink line
HOOK, sorry for the confusion. So let's see...the line I am using is Rio "Cold Water Series" Outbound WF8F/I 330g (1.5-2ips). It was reccomended to me by the guys at the fly shop for summer fishing clear water for pinks, coho, etc. I don't add a sinking tip to it. Just my leader via a loop to loop connection, then a NSLKnot to my fly.
http://www.rioproducts.com/fly-lines/saltwater/coldwater/outbound/
In the past I've normally bought 9 foot tapered leaders and added more tippet (8lb or so) when needed.
I guess what I'm wondering is:
1- Best loop knot? I find the DSL easiest to tie. I can do the perfection loop knot but find it a bit of a pain. I've heard the PL is a better knot. Opinions?
2- Should I run a straight piece of mono from my mainline, or first use a thicker piece of butt then double (or tripple?) surgeons knot to a thinner piece of 10lb or whatever? My inclination would be to use a couple feet of 15lb mono and add 3-4 feet of 10lb or so tippet via a blootknot or surgeon's knot.
I'm going to read back a page or two on this thread as this may have already been answered :o
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Pink flies that work
Mainly for the Island when I go in a couple days for 3 weeks
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/1014200_10151514697581577_108801174_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/1014200_10151514697581577_108801174_n.jpg.html")
Gurgler Dry Flies for Pinks/Coho
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/1098544_10151514646446577_826009747_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/1098544_10151514646446577_826009747_n.jpg.html")
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/1003876_10151513080156577_861014498_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/1003876_10151513080156577_861014498_n.jpg.html")
More beach flies
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/644200_10151510827606577_2138804911_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/644200_10151510827606577_2138804911_n.jpg.html")
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/579594_10151510919936577_1752025837_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/579594_10151510919936577_1752025837_n.jpg.html")
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/564229_10151510827821577_324562911_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/564229_10151510827821577_324562911_n.jpg.html")
Selection of bucktails to drag behind the boat for coho
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p336/airmazda/994261_10151506741151577_1552230658_n.jpg) (http://"http://s344.photobucket.com/user/airmazda/media/994261_10151506741151577_1552230658_n.jpg.html")
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Ssypark - if there is already a loop at the end of your fly line then just tie a Double surgeons in your leader and loop/loop it together then add your fly. Don't bother with those tapered leaders, for river fishing you never need more than 8feet of leader fly fishing and usually no more than 6' so you can use a straight piece of 8 or 10lb mono without any issues. I believe the breaking strength of the Perfection and double surgeons are very good and actually almost identical. I have never had a DS loop break on me yet.
If you really must add a butt section between your fly line and your leader I would use something like 20-25lb stiff mono (ultragreen) however it will need a loop at BOTH ends which just leaves you with a lot of knots in a short distance trying to hinge against your tip top rod eye, you don't want this which is why I don't bother. the core of your fly line should be a breaking strength of 20-30lb anyhow so your leader will break long before your line does. I never go above 10lb test when im fly fishing, even for springs. I want leader line light enough the fish cant see it easily, has good holding power, can take some teeth, casts/turns over nicely and stuff I can break if I get hung up or if a fish is way to hot to turn
FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies
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Ssypark - if there is already a loop at the end of your fly line then just tie a Double surgeons in your leader and loop/loop it together then add your fly. Don't bother with those tapered leaders, for river fishing you never need more than 8feet of leader fly fishing and usually no more than 6' so you can use a straight piece of 8 or 10lb mono without any issues. I believe the breaking strength of the Perfection and double surgeons are very good and actually almost identical. I have never had a DS loop break on me yet.
If you really must add a butt section between your fly line and your leader I would use something like 20-25lb stiff mono (ultragreen) however it will need a loop at BOTH ends which just leaves you with a lot of knots in a short distance trying to hinge against your tip top rod eye, you don't want this which is why I don't bother. the core of your fly line should be a breaking strength of 20-30lb anyhow so your leader will break long before your line does. I never go above 10lb test when im fly fishing, even for springs. I want leader line light enough the fish cant see it easily, has good holding power, can take some teeth, casts/turns over nicely and stuff I can break if I get hung up or if a fish is way to hot to turn
FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies
Thanks for the tips but i dont remember posting anything about this :P maybe you mean to reply to someone else?
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Ha ha Sorry that was to Spawn Sack. I get distracted by kids and forget what the hell im doing/writing a lot. I think that write up actually took me close to 20mins for that reason alone
Aquaholic - what do you call that bare hook fly ?
I know they use bare red hooks for sockeye up north fly fishing
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The fly is called None of your buisness and they're Used for tube flies hahaha j/k
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Ha ha Sorry that was to Spawn Sack. I get distracted by kids and forget what the hell im doing/writing a lot. I think that write up actually took me close to 20mins for that reason alone
Aquaholic - what do you call that bare hook fly ?
I know they use bare red hooks for sockeye up north fly fishing
HOOK, thanks for the tips man!!! I find the D/S much easier to tie so I'll stick with that one. You also made a good point about not using too strong a leader in case you need to snap the fly off. I'll experiment with a thicker butt + lighter tip vs. just a straight piece of mono and decide what I like best.
Any reason why connecting the butt to the leader with a blood knot (my choice) or double/tripple surgeon's knot instead of loop-to-looping them together? I suppouse the loop-to-loop would be good if the leader got trashed you could quick connect a new one if you had some pre-tied.
Also have you ever tired flouro for this application instead of mono? Apparently the flouro sinks better and is more abrasion resistant. I'm not a huge fan for river usage as I find it's too brittle. I have crap loads kicking around in various breaking strengths (most was given to me or I won) but I find myself favoring ultragreen or other high end mono instead. For still waters I prefer flouro tippet as I feel it gives me an edge.
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FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies
I don't mean any disrespect but...I described in detail the type of water I was looking to fish (mainly low/clear late summer/fall for pinks + coho etc) to the staff at Sea Run and the 330g is what they reccomended. It is possible it is not getting down enough, but I do catch fish with this set up. I mainly fish slow runs with it like the Vedder canal, etc.
Is there any way to add weight to this set up if I wanted to try and get deeper? I've need heard of adding a sink tip to such a line. I've seem on TV guys adding split shot to their leader but I'd be worried about throwing crap cast and busting my rod tip.
I've looked at the Rio versitip package and almost bought one, but I am looking at getting into spey fishing so I think I'll save up my $ for that instead of sinking more into the single hand set up. I like single hand fly fishing but I find river weight rods + tips etc a bit aggrevating for an old shoulder injury. Sounds like the 2 handed rod will spread the workload out a lot and save my shoulder a lot of grief. For now will be sticking to the S/H rod, come winter I'll be looking at spey setups for steelhead :)
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I don't know if its me being me, but i usually tie the same fly, and size in 3 or 4 different colors of pink. Some days they smash different ones. well thats what it seems anyways.
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Awesome! Thanks alot Hook!!
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tips for where ? you need to be more specific because I will use anything from a clear sink tip all the way to T11 depending on the depth and/or speed of the current
you wanna cover all your bases then so buy these
he said the Vedder. Fast and super fast tips have their place but I've seen too many people spending the day unintentionally snagging fish and loosing flies on the bottom 'cause they use type 6 tips. Remember the water is usually very low at that time. An intermediate does best most of the time on most of the water I fish.
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Yes I get that however is a line with tips not better suited than a straight sinking line especially if your river fishing ?
I said I will use different tips in different water. If im coho fishing its usually my clear or type 3 but sometimes you need the type 6 if the water comes up or in the deeper areas, even in the canal.
Moejku - I seldom ever use pink flies in the Vedder. in clear water pinks will take anything put in front of their face if presented properly. I actually find more subtle flies work better and have the added bonus of also catching coho and jack springs
SS - using a loop with your butt section means only having to cut your actually fly line/sink tip every few years to replace the butt section. If you knot the butt to your leader then every time you need a new leader you will be cutting the butt section shorter and then cutting the fly line to add a new butt. Leaders get damaged very often salmon fishing so you will do this many times each season. I do what I can to get the most from my expensive things. Why spend $70+ on a fly line to start chopping it back ? The mono butt section on my tips just got replaced this year after not having been done in probably 5yrs, lost a total of 1" from my sink tip
I used to tie my leader to a butt section without loops and found I chopped about a foot off per season easily, If you lose an inch or two each time it adds up fast
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Yes I get that however is a line with tips not better suited than a straight sinking line especially if your river fishing ?
I mostly fish a clear intermediate tip (10 to 15 feet). A clear intermediate works as well. Some people fish a pattern with tungsten beads or barbells eyes on a floating line with a leader of 9 feet or longer.
A #6 to #8 rod and line is best.
Pinks will react to a fly as in they'll swim to and grab a swung fly and chase retrieved flies.
that was why I suggested a tip. :)
I have been quite happy with a straight intermediate where the water suits as well.
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Yes I have also fished a full clear sink line in those dug out pools before. problem was unless I brought my other setup with my versa tip line I was stuck fishing only that type of water. Sometimes I bore of casting/stripping and want to just swing some flies. I try my best to not have tons and tons of set ups because then each one only gets used a little, I rather have a few that get used a lot ;D
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Lots of place in the lower river where a full intermediate will do fine.
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True but its way more work casting it all day unless you have a stripping basket or stand on shore where your line will get beat on
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I just coil it in my hand. Seldom need to cast father than 40 or 50 feet anyway. :)
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I'm lazy - is that not apparent ? ;)
we should go slay so fish sometime Ralph
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Caught some cute little pinks off the beach today!
(http://i.imgur.com/OSC5olK.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/s1RlXVx.jpg?1)
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Good job man, question is..... is there a tune being wrote about this. :P
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Thanks, that would make for a good song wouldn't it!! 8)
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Thanks, that would make for a good song wouldn't it!! 8)
FYI.....there's already a singer named after that particular species of salmon. LOL
You could call your song "Pink in my Cadilac" Don't think the Boss would mind.
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also get yourself some pink wooly buggers (weighted)
That should be enough patterns to get you into fish. Focus more on your retrieve speed. once you find one that works its game on
Those buggers worked pretty well :) Unweighted, weighted; hooked a few fish in the upper yap before snapperoo. Should've bought more :P Oh well, restocked now :)
Thanks for the tip RE: retrieve speed as well :)