Fishing with Rod Discussion Forum
Fishing in British Columbia => General Discussion => Topic started by: armytruck on March 04, 2015, 08:53:07 PM
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Does anyone here Have to fight steering straight with your downrigger out . My dilemma is just that . :-\. I have a 14' aluminum with a thirty Yamaha . I fished Hole in the wall last season and Sandheads . Once the cannon ball gets past 25 feet I'm having a tough time staying straight , having to have the motor cranked right or left depending . Any ideas out there ? . I'm using a 8 lb. ball .Any heavier my top gunnal flexes to badly .
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I had a 14' aluminum years ago and I fished with two down riggers with ten pound balls. If I only used one down rigger I remember there was enough drag that the steering was effected. You only need to 1 1/2 to 3 knts for speed but that was enough to affect the steering with just one down rigger out.
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Just a guess but would a small kicker moyor favoring the side of the rigger even out the drag?
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Just a guess but would a small kicker moyor favoring the side of the rigger even out the drag?
That may work , however , being a 14 foot with the 30 long shaft + fuel and my butt at the stern may lead to sinking and no coast guard for the life of me :o
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Try tossing out a drag bucket on the opposite side.
It might take some McGivering to get it right and make sure you're aware of where it is so you don't tangle in the prop.
A good stiff bucket should work.
(Not an Ice cream bucket but a rigid 2 gallon bucket should work)
Put a few holes in it and add more holes till you get the balance right.
Just a thought.
Or.... Get another down rigger.
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When fishing Sandheads we found a 15 lb ball was needed when going deep (100 ft or more )
Any less just would not work because of currents.
If using 8 lb max that your using & with your boat it will limit your fishing to lower depths.
Currents wind waves drag from the ball & size of your boat adds up to the harder steering in a straight line as you mention.
You have a lot going on, steering,down rigger & your fishing rod.
I'd sujj just angling your outboard 2-3 inches ( turn ) & just keep adjusting.
When we used our kicker on our 16 ft runabout we'd turn & lock it in a position & use the main as a rudder.
Assume you only go to Sandheads on long high tide stationary days.
Tide change times can get nasty out there.
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bump
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I think people pretty much laid it out... no easy solution if you're sticking with your layout. Two downriggers and you wont have the issue.
With one downrigger you will need a bucket, which still will be difficult as it will be closer in than the rigger. Therefore, probably will just have to fight the steering, for springs you shouldnt need to go too fast anyways and should be doable. Fishing out of a 13' whaler I had the same issue and just eventually learn how to aim the boat to go in the course you want.
Easiest solution is a second rigger or worst case hang a ball or bucket out the opposite side to counteract the drag
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Reinforce your gunnel so you can go to a heavier ball. That way you can troll in a circle on auto pilot. :D
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That's funny Paulo ;D . I was searching and found cannon balls that are pill shape with a fin . Very thin weights . Maybe I will see something like this at the Tradex this weekend .
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I hated the fins.
They are affected more by the currents.
The currents can vary at different depths.
Therefore Surface speed is not the same as it is below for the action on your presentation.
A 12-15 lb ball should be trolled so that your downrigger cable is at 45 degrees (approx) you may have to adjust your speed to accomplish this.
Also, leader length will affect action.
A short leader will loop faster than a longer one.
Then there's lb test of leaders
A 40 lb leader will be stiffer and roll slower whereas a 20 lb leader will be limper and whip a bit more even if all else is the same.
Lots of tweeking to do to dial it in but when you do 8)
Good luck ;)
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I use 15 lb balls on 14 ft Lund and haven't noticed this with only one rigger down?
Must be heavier current than what I fish in?
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A 12-15 lb ball should be trolled so that your downrigger cable is at 45 degrees (approx) you may have to adjust your speed to accomplish this.
Guys say this, but i disagree with it completely. Who cares what angle your rigger is on... fish the speed you want to fish (speed over water) to target what you want to target. Sometimes that will be straight down, sometimes 30 degrees.
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I think I should move the downrigger further up (midships ,if you will) and build a stronger mount so I can run a heavier ball . Right now I am running it near the stern . I use a Scotty , short ,stongarm down rigger . Maybe this may alleviate the situation by moving it.
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I only guided for some years ???
The angle is a good indicated of your offerings speed and action
Currents can slow or speed up your presentation.
I'm more aware of the action down below on a regular basis based in the angle of my rigger cable.
Sometimes you move with the current (need to go faster). Sometimes you go against it (need to go slower)
There are exceptions to every rule.
I only meant it as a guide.
Also let's add the Pythagorean equation to the mix.
100 feet of cable out doesn't mean a 100 feet down.
When motoring around not paying attention to speed or cable angle....
What's your catch percentage?
Just askin 8)
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I think I should move the downrigger further up (midships ,if you will) and build a stronger mount so I can run a heavier ball . Right now I am running it near the stern . I use a Scotty , short ,stongarm down rigger . Maybe this may alleviate the situation by moving it.
My old mans 14ft has the riggers mounted to a homemade bracket made of thick stainless that is attached to the bench and gunnel. Makes for a sturdy mount.
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I wouldn't move my down riggers amidships. I did use 3/4" plywood on either side of the aluminum to brace my down
rigger bracket. It worked fine and I had no problems with stress on the sides of my boat...I used 10# balls. I now use 12#balls. Pancacke weights are pricey..
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What I will try is mounting a heavy bracket on the middle bench , go to a heavier ball 10# or more .put a sand bag in the bow to keep it down since most weight I have is at the back . This way I can cut the water more . I should mention I'm having the most steering issues when the cable is on a 45 and once I turn around and troll with the tide it's not as bad . Especially around Horseshoe Bay , Hole in the Wall , Fury Creek . :) Oh and take a pail along.
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If your boat is sitting high like that in the bow it makes sense you are having tracking problems.
Get that nose down and you wont need anything else im betting.
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I think I should move the downrigger further up (midships ,if you will) and build a stronger mount so I can run a heavier ball . Right now I am running it near the stern . I use a Scotty , short ,stongarm down rigger . Maybe this may alleviate the situation by moving it.
--really have to check... every solution brings issues. I just moved my rigger midship... first time out I was using a plug... turned into the wind and the boat slowed...plug floated up as I triped the rigger and instan line in the prop. Never happend before... Probably won't happen again... at least in the same way. I tend to try and learn from my mistakes.
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Yep,keep them riggers at the back of the boat or near it.
That rigger line will mess up an outboard very fast. :'(
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If your boat is sitting high like that in the bow it makes sense you are having tracking problems.
Get that nose down and you wont need anything else im betting.
I'll bet ur right :) . I think I will make up a sand bag (heavy ) and fit it under the seat at the bow . It should bring the bow down and cut the water nicely . As far as the rigger goes , I will leave it at the stern , build a stronger mount . Last thing I need out there is a mangled up prop of wire :P.